LOL Actually, I like to have a close race where you are not sure who is going to win. Those races are won on the light, I just treed your butt. ha. that nitrous is for the 455 guys, and those Chevy guys. When you watch that street racing show they have 1000 hp Plus 3 stage nitrous kits and they all have them. Put a 3500 stall in those 350's and that heavyweight will come out of the hole like a freight train, I know, I had one I could foot brake to 3000. That gave me the best 60ft time of 1.72. Those are 455 numbers. The 3000 stall does not do that. 1.90 60 ft now and that is a BIG difference in the 60 ft. You should put a kit on and do what I am going to do and that is run the smallest shot possible, it will keep the intake cool and may make the car more predictable on the dial in. I use a small 42 jet for the nitrous and it is no more than 75-80 more hp. Put that 125 shot in with the 3500 stall and when you hit 2nd gear you are still turning 4800, now you are rolling and you better hang on. Going from a high 13 to a low 12 is something to behold. Or 11.81 is more of a thrill with that 125 shot. Makes me wonder what that SP3 is going to do.
But if you can footbrake it to 3000 then it will launch. My 3000 convertor will flash to 3300 or so but does not launch like the 3500 one I bought from the GS club. That convertor must have been flashing to 4 grand right where the torque is at. At 3500 it has about 350 ft lbs so it needs to start there. Any 350 with a cam is going to get its torque at 3500 or so, that is where it needs to be to get that 4000lb boat out of the hole. No ifs and's or butts about it. Even when I had the 268 cam in there with the stock engine back in 85 the engine did not start to get going till the engine got to 3000 rpm, that is when it turned on. Take a look at this dyno sheet. This was from the GS club using a 350 with 10.5 comp using the same cam that I am using. The torque comes on at 4900 rpm. That is about where the engine needs to be to get the car pulling. It is not like the 455 where you have 500 ft lbs at 3500 rpm. When I used the 3500 stall that was on the looser side than the Hughes 3500 I was using the engine was probably turning over 4 grand when I nailed it off the line and THAT is how I achieved the 1.72 60 ft times. On the nitrous that was a `1.62 6o ft. The only other way to get the car out fast is to do a bunch of suspension mods like the class racers have done. I have not done that as I have a suspension made for cornering like a Vette. Here is my dyno sheet from when I used the 510 cam almost the same thing here and your 413 cam is going to act about the same. Here is the info on the Lunati cam that I am currently using in my combo from another club member.
I think you will be surprised what a difference the SP3 is going to make. My street motor is night and day different from going from the stock intake and 750cfm to the sp3 and 800cfm carb on it now. I have been trying to dial in the carb for awhile but getting there slowly. Once you get the rpms up on the motor it's amazing as it just wants more and roars to life. Someone here thought it might be a little sluggish on low rpm driving on the street and mine has been at times but its not a big deal especially since I have a 4 speed and can keep the rpms up if wanted. I can just imagine what it will do for a race motor setup. Raining here in Ohio so no carb testing on my street today lol
Going to quit in about 1/2 hr lol. time to get out. There is a place called Steve's Auto on Russell street in Cuyahoga Falls and they can now do custom exhaust piping. The can make the pipe and plus they do a great job on all around repairs very trustworthy. I am going to go over there after the engine is back together and have them redo my exhaust to the muffs with the X-pipe and I am going to add 18" 3 " pipe from the headers and add bung for the exhaust sensor to dial in that SP3 The SP3 could be a little slow on the take off being how it is made but with your stick shift you are up on the rpm in a hurry in low gear. For a automatic it could be somewhat of a problem if there is not enough convertor to get the rpm's up on the motor. I would think it needs at least a 2500 convertor to bring the engine up with the SP3.
Stay in touch on how that 18" length of pipe from headers works. X pipe too, since my system came with an H. Bungs will get you dialed. I had them welded in and bought a dual sensor FAST A/F meter. Fits on dash right in my face for testing.
Went to Summit Racing to pick up some fire/insulator for my fuel lines and I have to say that every intake that was a SP style there no matter how short the runners were was set to be ran from 3500 to 7500+ rpm. They look just like the SP3 so if you all want to run this intake I would be looking at running more cam and higher compression to make this thing work properly. It may and will run on more of a stock engine but may not perform well below 3000 or 3500 rpm. Hey Mart I was not sure whether to go all the way with the 3" pipe to the X then neck down to the 2.5" or just go the 18" then go with 2.5 to the X and out. The engine builder was the one that told me to run extension past the headers for more torque. I have that info in my notes just never went with it. I am thinking just go to the 18" then taper down to 2.5 to the X and out.
Guys would use cheap paint and paint the straight section to see where it would burn off, then cut off the section that didn't burn and that is the length of straight pipe collector extension they would use. Could be 6" or 24" depending on the engine combo that the engine wants, all have different needs. When the paint burns off there will be a transion to where the paint stops burning off completely to where it bubbles from the heat, cut off the bubbled paint should be where your engine will work the best with that mod. Running a sbb to its potential with a SP3, it would be a great idea to upgrade the rods to handle the 3,500 to 7,500 + RPM power band, especailly on that "+" side of the high end. Derek
Good trick. Should have done that today since I was on x-way doing 80 to and from Woodward. Good to run these cars and get them hot. Temp stayed at 180 all day while crusing. All my gaskets are sealed up real good now, not one drop on garage floor!
Yep, I forgot about that will probably do that when I go out for a run. I don't think I am going to try and go past 6 grand I know it has been ran to 6400 but I don;t want to push it too much after all it is over 22 years old now and I have well over 500 runs on it. I would say I have about 50 runs to 5800 on the nitrous and most was with the bigger shot. I always tried to stay conservative on over-revving it I keep the rev limiter at 6200 now. This cam does not rev as high as the 510 cam did, that cam went to 6400 easily but did not have that intake to go past that. On the plus side I have very good oiling, the engine was well balanced, I have a cross drilled crank and I think TA did something to the rods before they sent them to me, shot peened I think is what was done. I have a SFI flex plate which is one of the first ones made from TA Performance for the 350. The engine was set up to run the 576 lift cam the 510 had. The engine builder that built my motor is very good, just ask Mark Demko. I expect his motor to go past what I did after Michaels Racing gets done, Demko bought some parts and with the cam and all I think it will run real good.
Get it buttoned up. I need the SP3 feedback! I'll get my spare block ready for auto techs & new rods to handle winding it tight.
I have the water in just looking for leaks. Need to change oil, put carb on and hook up the fuel, may be running tomorrow, depending on the beer and the meat smoker.
You certainly got your $$ worth out of your sbb 350 build from 22 years ago! Yeah, Mark is switching to the Molnar rods with AutoTec pistons IIRC in his engine, he should be able to spin it to 7,500 RPM regularly without breaking it after the upgrade. I believe that Mark is going to do the assembly work himself as well. As long as those guys are as good as they were 22 years ago and hooks him up with quality machine work, he'll be good to go. Derek
The Race shop has the one guy there and the main owner is the one that works on the Buick motors. They used to do Paul Pirnet's 455 motor and they do a lot of work there. The shop is also a auto parts store and I think it is the race shop that keeps it going. I would like to see Mark have them finish it up and put it on the dyno. There ain't nothing like watching your motor on the dyno and getting it ran thru its paces.
I've said it numerous times....the s/p will make the 350 a wild machine starting about 3500. if you had an auto you would notice the drop off and return would be minimal rpm at shift rpm. I would run to 7500, shift, and the drop off was about 500 and right back to 7500 thru the lights. the 350 just loves a s/p. the badder a cam the better it likes it. just make sure you build the block correctly....whatever that means. lol
Damn, I wish I would have seen this about three weeks ago....maybe four. But, I did notice you guys put a couple of threaded bosses on the underside of the intake, right under the PCV hole. We just made a small metal plate that mounts there, and not using any valley tray at all. (You should make some small plates to attach there.)
