I’m not sure how to go to 10* sorry... u mean like turning the dizzy a bit ? The canister should be good it’s brand new. I’ve just seen videos of how people installs dizzy fire up the engine and then have the vacuum plugged up while they use a timing light to get it right then once that’s done they plug it back up. At this point I just need her to start
Your getting frustrated which is expected, but don't give up. Your close, I think. What I mean is if the mark on the flywheel is at 8* you can more your whole distributor so it points exactly at #1. That's where I start with a 455. The 350 likes 0* maybe, I don't really know. You haven't said if it sounds like starting better than before the 180* change and confirmed you poured some gas in the carb.
Ok so if I understand you correctly, you’re saying get tdc on the compression stroke but instead of have the mark line up to 0 have it line up to 8 on the tab. Then reinstall the dizzy and have it point to no. 1 terminal? I have not poured fuel in there just cuz I felt like if the fuel is squirting into the bowl then I shouldn’t need to? But if that’s not the case I’ll figure out how to get some fuel. I do have the condenser connected still. I’ll disconnect it if it doesn’t need it to start. U mentioned the radio correct? I have an after market stereo tucked away in the glove box I don’t use the original radio. As a matter of fact I got the body shop to take The antenna off completely and fill in the hole.
Yes, that's what I'm suggesting. How do you check for spark? Just trying to help. Pace yourself, maybe tomorrow's better.
I check for spark the way Larry told me to. Unplugged the center of the dizzy cap, so the plug that goes to the ignition coil. I put the tip about half inch maybe shorter to the upper alternator bracket and had the wife crank it and there definitely was spark. I put up a crappy picture because I actually took video of it
So install a 18 gauge wire(that’s what I have) from the positive battery directly to the positive of the ignition coil?
You down want to leave that jumper connected when not trying to start. Post a video of the next cranking.
You have the distributor in correct, do not pull it back out. Take the cap off. Turn the crank until the rotor points at the #1 mark you made. Look down at the balancer mark and see where it lines up on the tab. That is where you moved the distributor. Running a wire from the + battery post directly to the coil positive should be unnecessary. The starter solenoid bypasses the resistance wiring, supplying full battery voltage to the coil for quicker starts. If for some reason the bypass wasn't working, that might account for the hard starting. To test the system for proper functioning requires a volt meter. Connect the voltmeter between the positive side of the coil and ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. The reading should be 5.0-5.5 volts. It is important that the ignition points be closed for this test. If the points are open, the voltmeter reading will be full battery voltage. Bump the engine over until the points are closed, and check again. Again, 5.0-5.5 volts is the normal reading with the engine stopped, ignition key in the run position, and the voltmeter connected between the positive side of the coil and ground. The second part of the functionality test requires that you pull the coil wire out of the distributor, and ground it so the engine will not start. With voltmeter connected as before, crank the engine continuously, and observe the voltmeter. The reading should jump from the previous 5-5.5 volt reading up to 9 volts minimum. If it does not, it indicates a problem with the shorting switch inside the starter solenoid, or a wiring problem between the "R" terminal of the solenoid, and the coil. This will result in hard starting when cold.
Larry don’t yell at me I have a confession to make but earlier before I took a break I pulled out the dizzy since the rotor was pointing t no. 8 I’m out and about right now but hopefully later on today or tomorrow I’ll have my wife help me bump it and get it back to how it was. But I’ll do whatever you said I need to with the voltmeter
He's not yelling. This is how it goes. You'll get it. Patience. Take some time of from it. Your doing GREAT. Mike
Ok Larry. Everything is clear for me except one thing. You said for the second test I should disconnect the distributor from the coil. So u mean the negative side of the coil that had the distributor wire correct? Disconnect that and then put that terminal on a ground?
I didn’t mean it like that lol. I meant like Larry is my dad right now and I had already did what he said not to do lol. I have taken a break tho from it I will start tomorrow morning and hopefully get somewhere. Thank you guys again you guys are awesome for taking time out of your day to help me troubleshoot this
I think its one tooth off. Pop it out and move it one tooth. Its a bigger move that youd think because of the helix on the gears. Youll also need to bump the oil pump shat accordinly. Put a clothespin on the choke butterfly. It shouldnt need any choke in Az. to start. A few hand cranks on the cable should suffice. ws
