I would leave the engine in and do it... Get the rad, shroud, and grill out first. Lifting my 15 pound intake off is easy but use an engine crane to pick that stock intake off there and save your back.
True enough. The aluminum manifold is a one-hander, but I will only remove the cast iron intake by myself, not install it. That intake manifold gasket is too frail for a one-person installation. If you think that manifold is heavy, I've installed Ford 390 intake manifolds with a shop crane. ONCE by hand, never again. That manifold makes about half the head, and is immensely heavy! There oughta be a law against those sorts of "design" features. At the time, I was 170 pounds soaking wet, and that manifold was more than half my weight.
If you have air conditioning you will need the condenser out of the way also. You can move it out of the way just before you pull cam itself so you don't have to pull lines off of it . just tie it up out of the way. I suggest you get a long bolt with same threads as timing chain bolt that will help you guide cam out of block. Get a bottle of zzdp additive for replacement break in. Most cam warranties demand it. STP in blue bottle should be ok
Yep, as Sean and Andy have said, leave it in the car and remove all the stuff in front, the cam is longer than yah think:eek2:
In the process of pulling the cam and it only comes out about 5 or 6" and stops,.. Just rotate the crank left or right a little bit,.. Cause the cam sometimes just catches the crank throws and it won't come out... Just a heads up,..
Hey Buick#455, My son and I did that just a little while ago...........search for the thread below, it has pictures of the progress. 350 head port & polish and cam swap
It can be done with the heads on, but you gotta remove the valve covers, rocker shaft assemblies, pushrods, and lifters first ! Lifters can be a bit of a pain to remove as they usually build up a layer of sludge and crud at the base. :TU:
If u are not changing cam bearing, then okay, but if u have to change cam bearings, i thought u had to remove the engine to r/r the rear cam bearing.
Should be able to change the front one in car, front cam bearing is the one that wears the most and has the biggest load from dist. and oil pump. If you do, get the TA grooved front one. GL Derek
Do you have a cam already? Some cams require a change to torque convertor and rear gear ratio. And possible changes to engine itself. Overcam and you will be disappointed in money and time spent. So choose wisely. Also get a good timing chain set. Stock replacement isn't going to be best choice.
Decent cam. If you do pull heads off for any reason. Shave heads to bump compression up . some new valve spring that match the cam can be added too.
It is turbocharged so I think the compression will be good as it is... I would leave the heads on unless there is a reason to remove them.
Sean is correct. Turbo charged, 3:23 rear, built Th350 that needs a new convertor. I going to leave the stock valve springs on for now, but what springs would be good with this cam? Also if the lifters are worn, what lifters would be a good choice?
