Sorry man, I understand that you maybe had some lines switched, but not much more than that. Bottom line, if it's fixed, how's it working now??? Devon
its working good i can spin the rotor after pushing on the brakes. but why would the main line have the smaller fitting? versus the driverside?
I still don't have anything but a foggy idea of what you're describing. The factory designed in different port sizes in areas that were likely to be assembled incorrectly at GM. Beyond that, anyone and everyone is free to run the lines as they wish, regardless of their understanding of the system. Devon
wish i had a diagram of where the lines where really suposed to be so i am sure i did not mess it up or have a worse problome then i thought. so how i have the lines into the prop valve go like this looking straight at it goes from left to right. back line then from the master cylinder back then a power line? then the front of the master cylinder line then driverside line then below it is the passenger side front.
I recently replaced the calipers on my Riviera. I didn't grease anything. I didn't know I was supposed to. I don't want to trash new parts so please... what kind of grease and where do I use it? this is the exact problem I had before I put on the new calipers last week. bad shimmy, burning brake smell, super hot rotor and wheels, and when I put it on the jack I could not spin the wheel by hand. Let me know what to buy and I'll get some this week. thanks, Mike
Mike, One of my pet peeves is the fact that lots of guys buy Buicks, and spend all kinds of money on parts to improve and service their cars, but neglect the most important purchase of all. A Buick chassis manual for their year car. They are available as originals on Ebay, in reproduction from TA Performance, and even on CD ROM. I'll get off my soap box now:laugh: To answer your question. Most disc brake calipers are of the sliding caliper design. As the pads wear, the entire caliper slides in the mounting. On our cars, there are 2 bushings in the ears of the calipers. The bushings push into the ears, and there are little O rings that install in the ears. The mounting bolts for the caliper go through the bushings. I like to grease the outside of the bushings, and the edge of the mounting bracket where the caliper slides. The Chassis manual mentions this and illustrates it. As far as the grease goes, you can get it at any good parts store. It is a specialized grease, but I've seen guys use white lube or anti seize in a pinch. I like to use the right grease though. If the caliper doesn't slide, the caliper can bind up. If you've ever removed a caliper and found the pads wearing unevenly, this is frequently the reason. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24110-Caliper-Brush-Top-Bottle/dp/B000HBNV6W
Thanks Larry. I do have the Body by Fisher manual for body/interior work and usually my '64 to '71 Chiltons manual has me covered for mechanical stuff. I found the GM chassis manual online: http://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/71_chassis/files/50-b.pdf This explains everything in greater detail than my trusty Chiltons book which did in fact mention the bushings and sleeves. So it is my error not the fault of Chiltons. I've always liked their books and have bought one for every car I've ever owned. page 9 of the online manual shows the exploded drawing of the caliper with the lube points you mentioned. page 1248 in the Chilton manual. I must have glanced at the pages and determined that it looked like a pretty simple job so who needs to read it all. Remove 2 mounting bolts, remove brake hose, attach brake hose to new caliper, position inner pad, attach anti rattle clip, position outer pad, slide caliper over rotor, install 2 mounting bolts, bleed. Anyway, lesson learned. So it looks like I needed to buy this also: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...kole?itemIdentifier=209205&_requestid=1101748 If I needed to buy bushings and little O rings the guy at O'Reilly never mentioned it. But then it's not his job to know what I need. He just sells me what I ask for. I also noticed on page 10 of the linked chassis document that there is a step called "clinching the pads". there is no mention of this step at all in the manual I have. I assume that clinching the outer pad keeps it attached to the caliper casting instead of wiggling against the rotor. I put the car back up on the jack and the wheel still spins free with a slight drag as is normal. when I started on the brakes last week-end I couldn't even turn the driver side wheel by hand. Looks like I'll be messing with brakes again next week-end. Thanks again for the help and the reminder that the manual isn't any good if you don't actually read it. ou: Mike
Mike, You don't actually need to replace the bushings or O rings unless they are damaged and unusable. I just clean them, lube them up and reuse them. You can get the bushings and O rings in a caliper kit that comes with the anti rattle clip for the inner pad. Should be cheap if you need them. While inner pad is held into the piston by the clip, the outer pads can rattle against the caliper when you are off the brakes. That is what the clinching step is for, to minimize the rattle. You can usually hear the pads rattle as you are driving over a bumpy section of roadway, and that will disappear if you lightly touch the brake pedal.
