caliper sticking

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by godziller, Jun 10, 2011.

  1. godziller

    godziller Well-Known Member

    70 gs driverside why does it happen just replaced it because of this issue
     
  2. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    It's possible that jounce hose (brake hose) is delaminating internally. It can intermittently act like a check valve preventing flow away from the caliper. If the hoses are all original, I'd consider replacing all three.

    Devon
     
  3. godziller

    godziller Well-Known Member

    So I'm lost what three lines or hoses
     
  4. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    The jounce hose is the foot long (or so) flexible rubber hose that leads from the end of the hard steel frame-mounted brake tubing to the front caliper or rear axle housing. The rear allows suspension travel, the front hose allows suspension travel and steering motion. Your car has three; left front, right front, rear.

    Devon
     
  5. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    If you let the caliper hang by the hose, it has closed the internal part of it. By doing this fluid will no longer flow though.

    The only way to fix it is be replacing it with a new hose.

    Since you will have it apart, you might as well replace all three. Then you can tell by the color of the fluid that comes out that you have changed the brake fluid also.
     
  6. godziller

    godziller Well-Known Member

    Ok just got lost with the three line comment. And the hoses were replaced last yea when upgraded to discs on the front the prop valve was replaced so I guess I do that hose over
     
  7. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    If they're only a year old the hose isn't very likely to be causing the problem. Make sure you don't knee-jerk react to every suggestion and go out buying parts; you'll end up with empty pockets in a hurry! The likelihood would've been greater if the hoses were original.

    Devon
     
  8. godziller

    godziller Well-Known Member

    I'll replace the hose and see if ir works
     
  9. godziller

    godziller Well-Known Member

    So replaced the hose and hard line tonight and it is still sticking. Prop valve? Gonna try a new caliper
     
  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Did you grease the bushings and slides? If not, the caliper can bind for that reason alone.
     
  11. godziller

    godziller Well-Known Member

    Of course not looked over it will do that tonight or next week
     
  12. satch

    satch Well-Known Member

    When you changed over to discs, did you use the small pushrod adapter that goes between the master cylinder and the brake booster push rod? (It's a small rod about an 1 1/2" long) In the generic kits, it's included but not necessarily used depending on how long your existing brake booster rod is. Adding the adapter when it's not needed will cause your brakes to drag and eventually cause the caliper to lock. You still would be able to drive around for awhile until they got too hot and locked.
     
  13. godziller

    godziller Well-Known Member

    so after a night of greasing everything on the drivers side then would press the brakes, i went back and it was still sticking so i think i will try a new caliper since it is still under warrenty
     
  14. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Normally, if the piston is hard to retract, the caliper is N/G. I would replace the calipers in pairs to preclude any further issues. If one is tight, the other is probalby not far behind if put on at the same time.

    For future reference, if you want to determine wether the caliper or the hose is N/G, when your trying to retract the caliper piston and its not retracting, open the bleeder. If it compresses easily after that, the hose is collapsed. If its still difficult, the problem lies in the caliper.

    Test, dont guess. Throwing parts at a problem is not a way to repair a car.
     
  15. godziller

    godziller Well-Known Member

    The hard line had a kink right where it went into the hose so I needed replaced. Then a night of greasing I would think that is all that is left. Actually the one on the driverside looks different then the passenger side. The bolts stick out further then the other side
     
  16. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    The one what looks different? The castings?


    If you mean the slider is sticking out further, that might indictate the pads on one side are worn signifigantly more than the other. The pads on each side should have equal wear. If they dont, further diagnosis is required.

    If you have unequal wear on the same side, that will tell you something also. Wear to the outer pad might indicate a siezed slider, wear to the inside pad might indicate a tight caliper.
     
  17. godziller

    godziller Well-Known Member

    the color of the pins and the castings but i will have to wait awhile to get a new caliper because no one carrys them
     
  18. godziller

    godziller Well-Known Member

    Well discovered the problem today. And I don't feel to bright now. So when the disc brake conversion happened the line to the driverside was swapped with the line from the master cylinder. Probably due to the fittings that were on the original lines.
     
  19. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Would love to know more, I didn't understand the problem with that last description.

    Devon
     
  20. godziller

    godziller Well-Known Member

    so on the proportioning valve i have the line in from the master cylinder was a small fitting so it was put into a small hole on the front of the prop valve and the driverside has a big fitting so it was put into the big hole. so the second from the front on the top. not sure why the fittings where like this probably the drums to disc
     

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