Discussion in 'Drag'n Wagons' started by superbuickguy, May 21, 2017.
Thanks again for posting these pictures of your build. Very interesting how you approach many of the problems you encounter. I too have one of those assembly manuals. A flat magnifying glass works great sometimes. I’ve even taken pictures with my phone to zoom in on some of the blurry pages and works fairly well. Going to be a very cool ride!
Sorry to bug you with more (probably stupid) questions? So when you are sanding the bare metal prior to paint, What is that process? Do you use multiple grades of sandpaper, or just something like 50 or 80, and then trust the primer to fill the scratches?
well, this goes to the back burner again for a bit.. but first, got the trans dipstick then reassembled the car
it's already been to bare metal (exterior), what's on it now is epoxy primer. Under will get some form of coating, the inside gets paint and spray-on sound deadener and thermal protection...
months later... this is back in action so I can get back to my wagon
and back to fixing holes
second hole... the metal was contaminated with something - probably lead
and more hole welding
some welded up
If my calculations are correct, I have about a day more of welding - then undercoating and sound deadening. Then I can remount the body forever
then more work making the side perfect
the whole point is to anneal the metal... it will shrink naturally but first I need to get the brittleness back out before I pound on it again
and I'll have to do this repeated before I hit it with a hammer again. Heat, let cool naturally....
mostly I have to fill the rest of the trim holes but also do just a bit of welding inside the wheel wells
more fine tuning.... a warning, though. This will not be perfect. I plan on driving this and even race it (though using it as my race-tow-car has great appeal to me).... okay
first get the lines within bondo distance
the other side, I needed to slot the wheel well because (guessing here) the Skylark sedan has less of a curve
so weld it so water can't get behind the filler
minor grinding while waiting for things to cool
fix the corner - again, so water cannot get behind the filler
betterish... not going to spend a lot of time here... when the next rebuilder gets to it, this will give him something to bitch about
Looks like a LOT of work. I would get fixated on one area and stuck. Love how you are moving along.
Now that the '40 is running fine (enough), the Corvette is mostly maintenance, it's time to get this running....
and look, a thing happened
first, some lightening
okay, decision time... do I paint underneath or just epoxy paint and undercoat?
you'll note both Buicks are on the plate (and I may take a suggestion I got about leaving the patina - for now - on the 50 and making it run....
so suggestion about the underneath of the wagon....?
for the next week or so, this gets front burner... I've got to get the floor painted so I can mount the body to the frame....
first, remove harness
put on Corvette dolly
I also really need to start planning the details... things like power windows and such.... I think I have most of what I need to make it mobile.... but no gauges - if what I use needs dash mods, now would be a pretty good time to do it.... and on and on... very comfortable, fast, fast, car... one I could race if the vehicle I'm towing becomes incapacitated....
time to make the safety experts cringe
the goal here is get the sand out (more of the sand), and get the grease off the underside.... this is round 1
also do a bit of spot rust treatment
can't see the difference but a lot better
while the frame waits for remarriage
tonight was planning, mostly... I really don't want to work on this upside down
so I dug out my rotisserie and got to planning
then there was puppy play time.... Luigi's brother came for a fully puppy play date, complete with a full mudding...
That's Luigi, he's almost white when not covered in mud
but fun was had by all