Buinicorn my 1964 wagon

Discussion in 'Drag'n Wagons' started by superbuickguy, May 21, 2017.

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  1. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut Staff Member

    Good progress!
     
  2. ssmock

    ssmock Well-Known Member

    Thanks again for posting these pictures of your build. Very interesting how you approach many of the problems you encounter. I too have one of those assembly manuals. A flat magnifying glass works great sometimes. I’ve even taken pictures with my phone to zoom in on some of the blurry pages and works fairly well. Going to be a very cool ride!
     
  3. Max Damage

    Max Damage Well-Known Member

    Sorry to bug you with more (probably stupid) questions? So when you are sanding the bare metal prior to paint, What is that process? Do you use multiple grades of sandpaper, or just something like 50 or 80, and then trust the primer to fill the scratches?

    Thanks!
     
  4. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    well, this goes to the back burner again for a bit.. but first, got the trans dipstick then reassembled the car
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    it's already been to bare metal (exterior), what's on it now is epoxy primer. Under will get some form of coating, the inside gets paint and spray-on sound deadener and thermal protection...
     
  5. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

  6. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    months later... this is back in action so I can get back to my wagon

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    and back to fixing holes
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    first hole
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    second hole... the metal was contaminated with something - probably lead
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    brazing worked
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    Max Damage likes this.
  7. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    and more hole welding
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    some welded up
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  8. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    If my calculations are correct, I have about a day more of welding - then undercoating and sound deadening. Then I can remount the body forever
    so onward
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    patch
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    weld
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    stitch underneath
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    then more work making the side perfect
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    the whole point is to anneal the metal... it will shrink naturally but first I need to get the brittleness back out before I pound on it again
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    and I'll have to do this repeated before I hit it with a hammer again. Heat, let cool naturally....
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    mostly I have to fill the rest of the trim holes but also do just a bit of welding inside the wheel wells
     
  9. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    more fine tuning.... a warning, though. This will not be perfect. I plan on driving this and even race it (though using it as my race-tow-car has great appeal to me).... okay

    first get the lines within bondo distance
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    back it
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    the other side, I needed to slot the wheel well because (guessing here) the Skylark sedan has less of a curve
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    so weld it so water can't get behind the filler
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    minor grinding while waiting for things to cool
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    fix the corner - again, so water cannot get behind the filler
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    betterish... not going to spend a lot of time here... when the next rebuilder gets to it, this will give him something to bitch about
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Max Damage

    Max Damage Well-Known Member

    Looks like a LOT of work. I would get fixated on one area and stuck. Love how you are moving along.
     

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