Buick Specific Engine Rebuilders Nationwide ?

Yes, you are right. I don't know what I was thinking. Torque-plate material should match the cylinder head--iron for iron, aluminum for aluminum.

Does this REALLY matter? I think ANY torque plate is better than no torque plate. Bolts 'n' washers are better than nothing.




Turn that concept upside-down. They make torque plates that you'd bolt onto cylinder heads before honing the guides and cutting the seats. Same concept--apply the stress before the machining so the part is "right" once the engine is assembled with all it's fasteners tightened.

 

This is the "recipe" for my 1970 Buick 455 in my Electra to be a daily looks like;

Sonic Check
Oil mods
Align Hone
Hot tank
Standard rebuild
--with TA 212 Hydraulic Cam, new lifters Ported Cylinder Heads, SP1 intake, Holley Sniper, Holley Hyperspark ignition and Hi perf oil pump/timing chain cover

Feedback would be helpful. I know I'll need to give my builder some direction as it is a bit of a unique engine. I'm a novice when it comes to engines, so the more detailed feedback the better. Thanks again all.

 

Not to say you can't do that, but you really want torque in a heavy car. Max cu inches, good TC, "RV" type cam. For a driver, I'd invest in the TC, higher gears in rear, well tuned carb, GM/TA HEI. Is your engine in need of a rebuild?

 

Yes, it’s leaking from everywhere, has silicone sealing the valve covers. Couldn’t even get them off. The heads are super clogged and contaminated. Definitely in need of a rebuild.

Can’t get gears for this axle.

what is TC?

 

Anyone have any experience with Auto Dynamic Engines?

http://autodynamicengine.com/

 

Pretty sure it's torque converter

 

No experience with this shop, could be great, can’t tell ya. My experience with shops like these is they very often will send out or mix and match parts thru sub-contractors. You don’t need to but it’s helpful to speak directly to the machinist doing the work. If this one person understands your needs then you should be good. There are usually a few people between the actual machinist and the people who (for lack of a better term) take stuff apart and clean that stuff. If the owner is also the machinist doing the work you’re probably going to have a good experience but also a good wait. But yes, be prepared to tell them exactly what you want before you agree on a price. Remember the cylinder walls are thick but the lifter journals are weak. Unless you’re sure you have core shift don’t stress your deck. If you don’t have a numbers matching engine, just get one of the experts to sell you a 455 long block. Yeah, you want a engine that you can beat to death, race, not use good gas, don’t know how to tune, etc… set your original aside and ask around for something in your budget including shipping. And if your not doing it yourself, finding someone to take your engine out and put it back in the right way is going to be as difficult as finding a good machine shop.

 

Yes, TC is torque converter. My 2 cents: Auto Dynamics Engine seems to be a high volume seller for remanufactured engines. Prices are cheap. You get what you pay for. You don't say where you are, but using a shop listed here is a better choice if you plan to keep the car, even if you have to ship it. It may cost more, but again, you get what you pay for.

 

This is true, I’ve been talking to them and this would be considered a “custom build” using my core but they don’t do sonic checks. I’ve gotten the names of only a handful of shops since I’ve been looking, Ta has a back log. Wyoming performance only does race engines and Mike at automotive machine and performance has retired. Someone said that another machinist bought out mike but they don’t seem to maintain an online presence.

If you know of some shops, preferably near Casper, WY I’d sure appreciate the lead.

 

Is anything close to Casper, WY? lol, sorry, couldn't resist! Jim in Minneapolis might be the closest.

Post 13 - "Cody Ware in OH. I have his card somewhere. He bought out Mike's (AMP) shop ".

 

1983. I took a "short-cut" north from Sinclair, WY. on my first big road-trip with a new Honda sportbike. Looked good on the map. Then the road turned to rocks, I couldn't safely go as fast as first gear idle--had to ride the clutch over the pass. I learned what "open range" meant, too, when the cow blocked the road.

I was THRILLED to get to Casper. Looked like heaven to me.

 

No, nothing is close to Casper haha! That’s the problem, I’m smack dab in the middle of the country

 

I know someone that got one out of a Sears catalog many many years ago. Ran great! Raced it for years....
Obviously not an option nowadays.....

 

Yeah, not too helpful. But thanks

 

What about using the heads as a honing plate?

 

Anyone in the Atlanta / north Georgia area?

 

Your combination or recipe looks fine, however I would recommend and Edelbrock B4B or Performer intake rather than the SP1. An Edelbrock will produce better low end and midrange torque, right where you need it for a heavy street car with tall gears. A factory Buick intake would work great as well.

 

Yeah, but isn't that the reason most people move to Casper, much less Wyoming? No disrespect, but that state isn't known for it's population numbers.

 

The builder I'm using suggested this but I haven't made a decision yet. Could use some input, thanks!

 

that would be a lot of cutting unto a head to make that work! Plus the cost of the cutting tool.
Fernando