https://www.baldwinfilters.com/us/en/about-baldwin.html Baldwin , Also manufactured in China , at least partially .
I purchased 6 (Wix branded) of these prior to this thread in order to fill out a summit order for free shipping. All 6 are made in USA, reddish drain back valve and have a manufacturing date of 8/10/22 In a completely non scientific test... I emulated Bob with a pipe nipple and simply "breathed" into the pipe nipple in a cold garage. My glasses fogged on 5 of the 6. I breathed a little harder into the 6th one again and it seemed to hold tight compared to the others.
I like K&N filters. I see they are now made in Mexico. You can buy them direct with free shipping for $15.99. I heard quality has slipped on them as well. Anyone know? Like I said before I think the drainback issue is that alot of us run lots of pressure on cold start 80-85. That really gives that rubber flapper anti-drainback "valve" a workout and soon it can't return to seal. That's why I run a simple primer setup using an outboard motor primer bulb to fill oil gallies and filter before starting after sitting. I can let sit for months and get immediate pressure with an immediate start-up. Don't even hear the starter motor.
I heard back from WIX. They said the anti-drain back valve is supposed to keep some oil in the filter. They were a little vague on how much "some" is. I explained that there were obvious leakers and some that were sealed up during my "test". They said that they would analyze one of my leakers if I sent it in, which I did today through my Napa rep. I tested all of the filters. 4 were good, 9 were leakers, and 3 of those leaked more than the others. One of those 3 was sent in. The second one I cut apart, and the third one I have an overnight leak test going on with. Now blowing bubbles shows that most of the leakage occurs between the metal plate with the threads and the spot-welded plate that attaches to it. So I put some 0w-20 oil on the area where the plates come together and let that sit all day. Not one drop wicked through. The next test is on-going on heavy leaker #3. I filled the filter with 0w-20 oil and plugged the threads. I turned the filter on its side and oil started leaking out of the check valve holes (lower most when on it's) side). Next I turned the filter completely upside down and it leaked a little more but then all leakage stopped. So right now the filter is sitting all night. Did the oil leak stop when the anti-drain back valve became coated in oil? It sure seems that way. I also bought 2 B39 Baldwin filters. The slight pressure test had both of them leaking more than the worst WIX filters. Tomorrow I'm going to fill one with oil and plug the threads just like I did with the WIX to see what happens, and then I'll cut it apart. Right now, my unscientific testing on a very small sample size has this as being a big nothing burger. Maybe there are more factors involved?
NICE! Thanks for trying to tackle the analysis on this and for communicating it to Wix. I wonder about the inverted filter, VS a filter on our cars that is at an angle. I have experienced mechanical issues before with a product that turned out to be caused due to the mounting angle. It took months to figure it out and the companies solution was to say "Uh. that won't work at that angle." They did give my money back, but lots of head scratching and time wasted too.
Here is the WIX filter inverted all night. Just a couple of dribbles. And the same for the Baldwin after sitting all day. No problem found. I don't see a correlation between the filters that bench-tested bad and their functionality once on the car and filled with oil. So who know what's going on? It will likely be a long time before I hear anything from WIX. I ran out of time today and forgot to cut the Baldwin apart.
Maybe try to simulate the angle when installed on a Buick Oil pump and check if that leaks? Thanks again! After writing the above, I really don't see that there is anywhere for it leak when it is installed...
That's a concerning amount of time before oil pressure builds, to me. I remember seeing an electric oil pump that primed the oiling system before one started the vehicle. My only old vehicle these days is a '70 Chevy truck with a 402 big block, which doesn't drain back, at least out of the filter. I am still concerned because it gets driven seldom and I have to crank it a bit to start it. The rest are newer, and the dealer is going to eat an engine if something fails, since they do all the maintenance.
Try test on a used filter. I bet more leakage due to rubber flap having been flexed with high pressure. Also, I too wonder if more likely to leak when at an angle since uneven pressure on flapper.
Hey BQUICK, Can you elaborate on your oil primer using an outboard boat engine primer bulb. I like the idea but I do not understand how you were doing it.
Hey John It picks oil off a fitting on drain plug, pull it thru a small filter, then to primer bulb, then to a ball valve and then into oil pressure sending hole. On one of my cars I have pressure gauge inline that you can see the pressure building as you squeeze the primer bulb. It takes 10 squeezes or so to fill the gallies. If you really go at it and squeeze more you can see it on the gauge in the car. Now that I have 600-800 passes on my motors the clearances are a bit bigger and it takes a little more pumping. It's a good feeling to start the race motors knowing that you have treated them to this procedure and the pressure will come right up. There are more expensive ways to prime like Accusump or and electric primer like what I used to use but I like the simplicity of this system. People have asked me to put together a kit but since it is relatively simple I figure people can make it up themselves but maybe now that I am retired I could...... Bruce
I tested the filters on their sides too, like they would be installed. No difference. Very minimal leakage. I am actually quite surprised on how well the anti-drain back valve holds oil in the filters that I tested. As far as used filters go, it seems like most people are complying about drain back on new filters.
For those of you complaining about WIX filters draining, have you actually taken one off after sitting overnight to find it empty?
That’s a great suggestion. Bob thanks for your diligence on this question. I feel better after seeing your testing.
Haven’t taken one off to find it empty but oil level on the dipstick going up considerably when the car sits tells me the filter is draining. Common sense will realize that the oil level has to rise a little from hot to cold but an excessive amount to the point of being over full is different. I check dipstick oil level before driving and after every time the car goes anywhere almost to being OC. I don’t see the big difference with the Baldwin that I do with the Wix/Napa. The Wix/Napa never did this in the past either but I started to take notice when it did. Also, I don’t like starting it cold and seeing the needle on the gauge just sit at 0 for a worrying amount of time. It’s actually more convenient for me to use the Wix or the Napa equivalent and I have always used them on everything I own. Never had any complaints in the past but if I can’t get the drainback to stop then I won’t use them on the Buick anymore. The Buick is also the only filter that sits horizontally, every other vehicle I own and maintain uses a vertical position. I will continue to use the Wix or Napa on them but the Buick will get the Baldwin B9 or B39 going forward.
I don't like 90 degree adapters for flow but if someone made one it could solve the issue. How about people who have a remote filter sitting vertically? Wonder if pressure jumps right up. I never considered one due to the extra plumbing that the oil would need to go thru.....
