Buick 350 engine build

After 3 years of scheming and planning, Isaak and I are about to finally embark on the engine build for our '72 Skylark. Placed the second deposit on the 350 SE heads this morning, so things are definitely in motion.

Here is the plan so far:
TA Performance Stage 1 SE 350 heads, with Level 1 porting job
TA 1316HD rocker assembly
AutoTec forged pistons from Competition Components
TA 1630B billet connecting rods
TA 310-350 camshaft
TA 1523 double roller timing set
TA 2010SCH headers, ceramic coated locally after break-in and fitting

Parts we already own and plan to reuse:
Stage 1 dual plane intake
Quadrajet Power carburetor, currently stage 1, will send back to be retrofitted as stage 2
TA Performance timing chain cover and high performance oil pump assembly
Pertronix Ignitor 3 ignition system: distributor, module, coil

The build goals for this project are 400+ hp and 450 ft-lbs. This will be mated to a TKO 500 transmission which I'm planning to source from Modern Driveline. (the car currently has a 3 speed Saginaw which has been converted from column to floor shift)

Does all of this sound like a set-up that should work well?
Are the build goals realistic from what I've outlined?
Are there any special considerations to be aware of when building for a manual transmission application?

This forum is such a great resource! Looking forward to everyone's good feedback.

 

It should all work well as long as your final compression is 10.5 to 1, but I think you do not need that much Cam to make like 420 hp so I might step down to the next smaller TA Cam seing as your getting a level 1 porting job on those heads.

 

Watching

 

Planning for a compression ratio of 10.5-10.7:1. I'll need to have my machinist measure the actual deck height before ordering the pistons.

 

Yes. Over 10 to 1 compression. Aluminum will cool faster so you can push it up with pump gas. The 310 probably isn’t going to get you 400 hp. Carb will probably be fine, but will need jetting up with headers and higher flow heads.
I would suggest the 413 cam. You will need more converter with the 310 or the 413. Atleast 3000 , small block rated.
You will need oiling modifications and melling 20is5 pickup sccreen(5/8). I suggest the ta backgrooved front cam bearing.
The sp3 intake would give you better performance then the stage1 with the goals of 400 hp and heads flowing up around 250cfm.
450 lbs torque, i dont think you will be there. Probably 400.
You can get the headers costed before breakin, you may not want to remove them after you realize how hard they are to install . Breakin cam with exhaust manifolds if you want. Not gonna hurt it.
I have the 310 in my engine right now, just breakin time, considering swapping to the crower level 3 or milling heads and more porting with the 413.

 

No torque converter in my car, manual transmission and three pedals. Right now I have the original 3 speed Saginaw that has been swapped to floor shift, planning to run a TKO 500 when I reinstall the built engine.

 

So no converter needed. What rear gears? Get a new or rebuilt harmonic balancer.

 

373 - 410 gears, but you will be x-way limited (slow lane) with that trans.

 

I have 3.42 gears in the rear right now. Intending to run smaller tires when everything is put together.
The Saginaw is indeed a slow shifting transmission, but the TKO 500 shouldn't be!

Had several conversations with Modern Driveline on the transmission/gear/tire combination and think that the TKO 500 and 3.42 gears should work if I switch from 235/55R17 tires that are 27.2" tall to 245/45R17 tires that are 25.7" tall. This should get first gear pretty snappy and still net an overdrive where I can cruise 65 at 2000 rpm. Of course, I could be wrong on this topic.

Since I don't have to replicate the stock tire size once the transmission is swapped, a tire change can be dealt with in the speedo gear selection.

 

Installed a new harmonic balancer last winter when I did the timing cover, oil pump, fuel pump, etc.
Hopefully won't have to replace that again ...

 

I know it’s a lot of money, but I believe installing a a roller cam adds considerable HP.

From my research a 212 roller adds about 40-50 hp versus a 212 flat tappet.

 

Well, I’ll have to follow up on that idea with TA Performance. See what the cost difference is, and how much performance benefit.

 

I doubt you would see that much

 

Both Mark and Mart had issues with the roller cam eating the block face. So research installation. And cam bumper preload.

 

In my case, chainset alignment. A tiny spec on roller cam shoulder will gall up the surface of the block. Shoulder needs to be straight, flat, no runout, and smooth as a babys butt.

 

My issue were the noisy Morel lifters

 

It's $1000-$1100 for a roller cam setup.

The dual plane will be fine, but you will make more horsepower up high with the SP3, and with the engine you're building you should be able to swing the engine into the 6000RPM range. The dual plane does remarkably well all the way to redline, but the SP3 is king up there.

 

Hey Darron,... here's a little post about my son's 350 buick motor we put together for him with a 310 cam, it might be a little helpful...


http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/70-post-skylark-350-sbb-back-at-the-track.290254/

 

I would spring for more porting, level 3 or more.