I am looking for pictures, information and ideas for a front motor plate for my car. How did you make your plate and do you have any pictures? Thanks in advance Mike carcrazy455@yahoo.com
http://mrbuick.com/racecar59.JPG http://mrbuick.com/racecar60.JPG http://mrbuick.com/more_buick_pictures.htm
Thanks Mike G. That looks nice. Did you test fit a distributor? It looks pretty close. Does the motor plate only bolt to the heads? Mike carcrazy455@yahoo.com
Bolts to the heads yes. This set up is like Eric Ruge did on his 62 he is running 8's so I guess it was ok for me to. Distributor will have to be a small body style but it clears fine.
Mine attaches to the block as you can see,There are simpler ways to do it,But anything you can do to eliminate the factory mounts will help the block live.
how hard would it be to use all the factory engine accessories (power steering, A/C, alternator) with the engine plate that bolts to the heads? I am going to have to use something like that, i originally planned on the turnbuckle but changed my mind to something more rigid, i was going to fabricate one out of aluminum on the front, and possible back. Andy disadvantage to running it in two pieces (IE the piece between heads, behind distributor wouldnt exist)?
Gary, Have you run this setup? Does it leak? I think Mike G's looks easier since he can use a standard front cover and water pump. I guess you must run an external water pump? How are the water passages sealed under the front cover \ motor plate. I am still undecided. Anybody else have another setup? Thanks Mike
We used .25" aluminum plates on each head. Ithink I actually got them Gary. As far accessories go you will have to make a .25" spacer for the crankshaft pulley and water pump pulley.
Mike, I designed and built a couple of these, but they have not yet been tested. One of them is for my car and the other is for Mike Phillips '67. His style is slightly different than mine. Once we both try them out, and decide which design to go with, I was going to build some and offer them for sale. Unfortunately, I won't have the "testing" finished until summer, or later. I can supply them "as designed", but I don't like to sell any products without thoroughly testing them first. Here are a few pictures of mine.
Steve, that looks very interesting. How does it attach? Is it part of the front cover? Jeff, what are the pros and cons of using the heads instead of the block to mount the motor plate? I know one big pro is it looks simple to fab and does not force you to mess with the front cover or cooling. Thanks Mike
Mike, Mine is made in such a way that a portion of the front cover is machined down .250 to account for the thickness of the front plate. It's a little bit "involved" to describe without pictures. It incorporates O-rings around the water passages to aid sealing. The one I built for Mike is a "full" front plate, meaning that the front cover will be machined about .200, over the entire surface. The other .050 will be accounted for elsewhere. Both of these will bolt to the block using all of the timing cover bolts and perhaps a few extra that will be added to the block. The one I did for Mike will be easier to machine and install, but I'm not sure yet which one will actually work better. Like I said, time will tell. Steve
The motor plates in my old tube chassis car bolted to just the heads. I made them out of 1/2" thick T-6061 aluminum. I'm sure 1/4" will work fine, but I had access to the 1/2" free. The car ran a best of 8.94 @150 w/ 1.25 60' time. An important thing to consider is what is going to limit forward/backward travel of the engine in the car. You will need something other than a front plate to accomplish this. I used "blow back" plates on mid mount between the engine and trans. I've seen kits in chassis builder catalogs that mount from a motor mount pad on the side of the block, and go to the frame rail http://picasaweb.google.com/jeffpeoples77/GNRaceCar/photo#5155187623571532930
Jeff, You're absolutely correct. The front and mid plates have a ton of strength radially but very little longitudinally. I have a plate that bolts to the block and another that bolts to the frame with a tube in between that has rod ends on both ends. One being LH and the other RH threads, which make it easier for installation and adjustment. Good point that I had forgot to mention! Steve
I use mid and front plates along with a polyurethane trans mount in conjunction with a ''strut'' to control forward/rearward movement. I've seen a certain Regal go in the 8's with only .250 plate to each head and the trans. mount ONLY.........:eek2: Makes me wonder why I went to so much troubleou:
Mine are in 2 pcs , used to be one but it got too busy up there and wasn't helping anything anyway. They bolt to the heads and one bolt in the block each side , that way you can pull the heads in the car and it is still supported. There 1/4 thick and I also run a rod from the chassis to the block to limit front to rear movement. They've been on 12 years--- Holy s#$! the "NEW" car is 12 years old! Dave
Dave, how did you get one bolt in the block on each side? Do you run water in the block or is it dry? Thanks Mike
