We need to replace our driveshaft, and I thought I could save some weight going to aluminum. Anyone using alum. on a race car? What diameter and do you know how much weight you saved? Any other thoughts on the subject are greatly appreciated.
Clark, Strongest and lightest I've found (except for carbon fiber) is a metal matrix shaft from Dynotech out of Michigan. Saved 11# over a chrome-moly Denny's shaft. Good luck!
John, Unfortunately when I made that change I also "tricked" up the transmission so I don't have a good A-B-A test on the driveshaft alone. I am estimating that it was .01-.03 of the .15 I picked up. Quality piece. Tom
Tom, Dynotech told me a month or so ago that they don't make the metal matrix drive shaft any longer because of the lack of the material. I still see them advertise them however. I guess that another call is in order. Although with the lack of $$$ these days I guess I'll wait until I can afford one before I place an order.
You saved 11 lbs? Nice lose of rotational inertia. What is the cost and I will add that to the weight table.
Aluminum drive shafts are typically 4" diameter so you may have clearance issues you'll need to check for.
Shaftmaster's also builds a nice aluminum shaft, they are in MI. I had one built for my father in law's car for $265 with a slip yoke and 1350 u joints, off the top of my head, it is 3.5" in diameter with a critical speed around 176 mph and (I think) a max torque of 5,000 foot pounds. Keep in mind, 600 ft*lbs engine, 2.48 first gear, 2.5:1 for the torque converter is less than 3800 ft*lbs. Should hold plenty of power. Remember, you can multiply torque, but not hp. www.shaftmasters.com or 313.383.6347 HTH
I want an aluminum shaft very bad, but when I setup my car, I didn't leave enough room for anytthing over 3" max and maybe not that. A friend built me a stout shaft, but it is heavy. If anyone knows of a small diameter aluminum shaft, let me know. Jim Netherland
Shaftmasters makes aluminum shafts in 3" diameter. Call them and see what the performance specs are. You might have to go with more wall thickness at 3" vs. 3.5" depending on the application. Good luck.
This is the shaft in George's car.. 765ft lbs torque, trans brake, big slicks, 3000 lbs.. never a problem. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for.. His MW 9" components, and drive shaft were money well spent.. never a problem. http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=336 Jw
i broke a driveshaft at 120 mph on the highway from a local supplier, that was an expensive fix. none the less i can attest i will never use a local shop again for that. i saw their balancer after i had an issue with the second one which vibrated like crazy and it was old and the equivilent to a bubble balancer for tires. i have a denny's now and no issues.
Does any one have a length of for the shaft for a typical A body or GS. I called Mark Williams today if I give him a length he can give me a weight savings.
TH400 and 8.5" rear axle = 54.2", and a 8.2 is 55.1". That's from memory, if I'm wrong, it's very close to that. HTH
Wow that sounds cheap or in my ball park. I need to get one rebuilt but for that price all new sounds good too.
FYI As of today (4-16-09) Dynotech told me that they can no longer obtain the MMC material. I believe they were using Alcoa sourced material. Mark Williams however has re-sourced the MMC material and offers the driveshafts in 3.5" or 4". Prices are $682 for the 3.5" and $760 for the 4". The yoke for a Turbo 400 is an additional $204. Just thought you may want to know this. Thanks, Steve
