First thing is I have a question, if I got a 100 amp alt and put it in my car that is otherwise stock in the engine bay, will I get any of the extra 60 amps if my external regulator was designed to handle 40 amps off the original alt? Do I get a higher powered regulator? 1972 Skylark with a 1969 Skylark 350 Engine, it did have A/C. Second choice involves me asking if anyone has some instructions for me on how to go about converting to an internal regulated alternator.
there arent any 100 amp alts externally regulated unless you go to an industrial unit.they will not be a bolt in deal.unless your talking aftermarket,in which case the reg will work ok,i would recomend a new h.d. one however.its the rpm/load/battery state of charge that determines how much amperage it puts out.you got something in mind?
try this http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=89861&highlight=alternator while i am here,ill bang my own drum ou: theres a few guys running my units on the board :TU:
ya I have a 100 amp aftermarket bolt in alt. from TuffStuff brand. I was told by someone later that I won't get more thru the regulator than I did before. I have never heard of upgrading your regulator, where do i get one? Reason for all this is I need more juice so my battery can keep up with an amp and speakers that this car never dreamed of when it was new.
You can stick with the stock alternator if you simply chuck the stereo, speakers and amp into the garbage can. They will only slow you down, adding weight never made a car faster. But if you must, I have heard of people going to the junk yard and getting an alt bracket from a firebird that mounts the alt low, they add an extra alternator just for their sound system,that's one option.
just run yours till it dies(it might last forever).then buy a hd replacement.go to an alternator rebuilder & tell him what you have.they are aftermarket.
I did this conversion to handle my THREE amplifiers and AC! Where the wiring harness connects to the back of the alternator is referred to as "clocking". I told the shop I wanted a 12SI alternator, 90 amp, clocked at the 12 o'clock position. I also took my old alternator in so he could use the shim behind the pulley so my belts line up correctly. You unplug your regulator and run a jumper wire between 2 of the wires. Then just plug one wire into the alt. I can tell you more once I look over my installation and see how I did it. But it was a 45 minute swap. Easy!
another tidbit Do I have to worry about an "Ammeter" or a "relay / junction box" that has wires too small to handle the extra juice? Someone mentioned this to me.
not on the small wires,however i would upgrade to AT LEAST a 10g batt wire,thats were the amperage is.use this method http://www.buickperformance.com/alternat.htm
Ok, I have a question, I don't even know which alternator I have. The car is a 72 Skylark, and the alternator has a moulded two wire plug and the batt wire. And I think the voltage regulator is still hooked up. When you start the car it won't charge at first, you have to rev the motor above 1500 RPMs then it works just fine until you shut it off and start it again. What's happening here and is the answear to the problem in the above post that shows eliminating the voltage reg?
the turn on problem is the air gap between the stator & rotor windings.these units have been around forever & rebuilt numerous times.when rebuilt by the huge reman outfits the inside of the stator is trued.same with the outside of the rotor.they actually remove material from both.this changes the turn on at low rpm.or you have a big ol honkin 4" pulley on it ou: eliminating the firewall reg wont help if you happen to get a unit that has been thru this process.i only use NEW rotors & stators because of it.of course corroded/bad connections wont help either.
It hasn't got the big pulley, so what your saying is that my new/remanufactured alternator is worn out when I get it? ou:
basically,yes if its been thru the rebalancing-trueing stage a few times,yes :spank: if you didnt have the turn on problem with the old unit & the pulley is the same size thats the problem.thats how you can buy an alternator for $30,they reuse everything thats still "working".a competent small scale rebuilder should have a variable speed test bench to catch this.mass producers test a small percentage of what is actually sold.i have worked for both,actually quit a very well paying manager's job because i didnt like their quality control.tear apart 100 units,toss all bad parts,repack bearings,use whats good & MAYBE install new brushes.get 20-30units out of the original 100 uzzled: i dont think they are around anymore,used to be #1 japanese auto parts over here AKA chai-pong corp.most of it was built in thailand,we did the late model big dollar stuff were i was.
Well I don't know about the turn on problem before cause this car was like this when I got it. And I have replaced the alternator once and it was the same before and after, which made me think that there was a problem with having a internal voltage regulator and still having the original one hooked up.
wait a minite dave,which alternator do you have?you can not regulate a regulator,do you have the internal unit?post a pic if your not sure or look at my ad in the vendor section & tell me which one it looks like.http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=89861
Re: alt I know this is an old thread but can someone clarify this wiring for me? Are the outer two jumped together and run to on terminal and the inner two run to the other?
I bought a 100 Amp Powermaster Alt. from Summit (Sorry jamie) internal regulated for my 65. I was unsure of the set-up, so I called Powermaster. I was told to just run One wire from the Alt to the battery. It connects to the battery at the starter, but I ran a 10ga. wire from the alt straight to the battery just to be safe. I took the original wiring harness apart and took out the Two wires that came from the back of the alt. They just unplug from the regulator. I took the regulator off the firewall and taped up the extra wires and hid them behind the brake booster. Taped the original harness back up and haven't had any problems in Three Years. I also have my electric fan hooked up straight off the battery with the included fuse. It regulates itself, so no problems. That's the reason I wanted the alt in the first place. With my original, when the fan came on, the volt meter went way down. Now it barley moves when the fan starts. PONCH
I bought a 100 Amp Powermaster Alt. from Summit (Sorry jamie) internal regulated for my 65. I was unsure of the set-up, so I called Powermaster. I was told to just run One wire from the Alt to the battery. It connects to the battery at the starter, but I ran a 10ga. wire from the alt straight to the battery just to be safe. I took the original wiring harness apart and took out the Two wires that came from the back of the alt. They just unplug from the regulator. I took the regulator off the firewall and taped up the extra wires and hid them behind the brake booster. Taped the original harness back up and haven't had any problems in Three Years. I also have my electric fan hooked up straight off the battery with the included fuse. It regulates itself, so no problems. That's the reason I wanted the alt in the first place. With my original, when the fan came on, the volt meter went way down. Now it barely moves when the fan starts. PONCH
