Alternative camshaft to Hughes Whiplash cam for a 462?

Came across this video on Youtube:



It's a 440, unsure if it's bored and has open headers, but it sounds mean as hell! And it's not just this car, I've watched other videos with a Hughes Whiplash cam. Same sound, basically. Mean as hell.

Is there alternatives for a 455? I think the guy has this cam: https://hughesengines.com/products/hug-smc3245bl?_pos=2&_sid=bbc8fa8b0&_ss=r

I don't know the compression on my motor, but I suspect it is stock, if it makes any difference? I know little about these engines...

 

Call them -- I'm sure they will happy to cut one for you!

 

Doesn’t sound any nastier than any other rumpity cam??

 

Sounds the same as my TA 294-04F cam sounds now, and the TA 308S cam it replaced.



Devon

 

Engle use to make Hughes cams. Hughes cams were noted for there high rate of lift to duration. 552 lift @332 duration. Chrysler used a .904 lifter that is how they can get away with it. never get there with a gm .842 lifter. might not sound nastier then any cam but it sure will out perform them.

 

Lots of lift, lots of duration and lots of overlap means that to do it right...

You'll need most if not all on this list: Higher than 10:1 static compression ratio, notched pistons, dual valve springs, roller rockers, a manual trans or loose torque converter, steeper rear axle ratio, headers, recalibrated carburetor and a vacuum reservoir to keep power brakes functioning. And probably more stuff than that.

Sorry, it's not gonna be a plug & play scenario.

Devon

 

You mena a TA 290-08H will sound as good? Or maybe a TA 413?

 

Yep!
Any cam that’s targeted towards “the sound” verses actual performance is stupid.
I had a 413 cam in my 350, it idled like that cam in the video when cold, once warmed up it was a nice lope, I had the compression for the 413, if you stuff that same cam in an engine with less that 10 to 1 it’s going to lope pretty good and run like ****.
The 413 in a 455 will have a smoother idle than it did in my 350.

 

Not sure what you mean by that... I know the TA 413 has a "mean sound". But I want to know exactly/or the similar camshaft to the one I linked in the original post.

 

From their website, it looks like the whiplash line of cams are just ground on tight lobe separation angles, like 107 or so. Only effective for lots of noise and used for low compression engines

 

A cam will idle differently in different engines.

 

Just saw that too, kindof what Comp Cams did with their "Thumpr" line of camshafts. Similar specs to TA 290-08H and TA 413, but with the tight lobe center for the "sound". In exchange you literally throw away low end and midrange performance.

No thanks, but each to his/her own.

Devon

 

I once ran a GSCA Hemikiller in a stockish ‘70 455 with headers. 241/241…sounded wicked, wouldn’t make enough vacuum for power brakes, wash mushy out of the hole, ran mid 13s with headers and 3.55 gears. Went milder and ran the same time, had power brakes, much better driveability.
Patrick

 

Is that cam safe to use without a girdle on a stock block? I have a 76 455 block.

 

Don't understand really... Do you not prefer the TA-cams? Which are the best for a 500 hp+ setup with low-midrange torque. Street/cruiser car type.
I have a stock 455 block from a 1976 Buick. I do not have a girdle or halo either, so I want to keep the RPM under 6000. That's at least the RPM I've learned that you should not "pass" unless you want the engine to explode... Or am I wrong?

I know people have told me that the cam is the last thing you put in, not sure if that's true either, since a cam can be depending on the compression ratio on the engine etc. I think I have stock compression, not sure.

I just want a cruiser car that sounds mean as ****. No strip/race car that goes under 9-10 seconds etc.

 

I absolutely prefer TA's camshafts, that's why I'm running one.

Our point is that you should expect a loss of performance, a sacrifice you have to be willing to make to get that "sound" by using a camshaft profile like the one you linked to in your stock, low compression engine.

Devon

 

Buying a cam for the way it sounds is the fastest way there is to wind up with a motor that runs like a total dog.

The 76 block is fine, in fact that's the block most would like to have but what heads are you using? 76 heads? Trying to mix a big cam with 76 heads would be a complete disaster. If they are 76 heads gets some earlier heads..70 to 72 heads are popular..

Whats your plans? Type of intake manifold? Which pistons? Will the block be zero decked? Which heads? The heads are the key to big power from these motors. What ignition system will you use? Lots of info needed before we can recommend a correct cam for your set up..

"I know little about these engines...
That's a bit of a scary statement..these motors will make a lot of power and last a long time IF you take care of their idiosyncrasies. Ignore those and you could be rebuilding it sooner that you wanted too..

 

I would strongly suggest reading through the attached thread. It sounds like what you have now is a stock block and heads. If so, your compression ratio is around 9:1 or less. If so, you need a mild cam (215/225 on a 115-118) or you will slow down versus well tuned stock. If you deck the heads or block and get into the 9.5 to 10:1 range, the 13s and 12s are possible with the combos in the thread.
You asked about a big cam and block girdle; you don’t need a girdle until you’re pushing enough power to go 10s, and you’ll need compression and heads (plus converter, gears, chassis tuning, ignition tuning and either a really worked Qjet or a Holley) to get there. You mention 6k rpm-you won’t need to go there and won’t benefit from it until you have the equipment to go 11s.
Here’s some reading; notice that no one is running a cam like that DumperThumper thing…

http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/post-your-12-13-second-455-combos.314631/p

Patrick

 

You can always unplug a plug wire or two.