wait....i have 2 threads showing on the TOP of the adjuster. so dosen't that mean they are too long? i think i didn'd explain that correct earlier. either way, you think its okay to break in the cam and drive around for awhile with it like this?
No, look at the bottom of the rocker. More than one thread showing, or recessed is undesirable. I posted a link to the TA instructions on this.
To fiqure out if push rod are the correct length. Take black felt tip marker and paint the top of the valves. install the rockers. run the motor for about three minuets then remove the set. If the wear pattern is on the inside (next to the intake), the push rods are to long. If the wear pattern is on the out side (next to the exhaust manafolds/headers), the push rods are to short. If the pattern is in the middle (correct), then they are the right lenght. If he took 0.010 off the heads, then shorter push rods would not hurt. I would think by having push rods incorrect, it would wear the valve guides.
Unless you had some type of interference problem somewhere, I'd leave it and glue that valve covers on- until money burns a hole in your pocket and you have nothing else to spend it on.
I know this is an old thread. I was doing some searching for info on adjusting rollers and still have a question. I bought a set of T&D 1.6 rollers from a member here on the board. read some threads and then today decided to put them on the Regal since I had the covers off for the PCV conversion. I put the L side on first and rolled the engine over by hand. loosened each adjuster as that cylinders valves came closed. Backed it off till the rocker had free movement then adjusted as described in this and other threads. They all seemed to be pretty much right on the money. so I just bolted the R side on and then started it up. Cars always very cold natured not having a choke so rough running on start up is normal but once it warmed enough to get out and look at things I hear a tick on #1 exh. I also see no oil flowing from that and several others. also a few of the push rods were not spinning. one by one I loosened the set nut and put another 1/4 1/2 turn on those until I had oil and no noise. Once fully warmed up it seemed to run smother than before. ?'s is this. Is the above normal, How much oil should I see flowing and without taking it to the track and running it how can I be sure its right?
I start with #1. What I did was first mark where #1 was on my distrubitor then marked under the rotor (every 45 drgreese of distributor turn) where the remaining cylinders were firing (will post a picture later). I followed the firing order with it and set all the valves that way.
i do the EOIC method. if the exhaust is opening adjust the intake if the intake is closing adjust the exhaust.
I do the same thing exaust opening adjust intake and intake closing adjust exaust. That's how Fred told me to do it and I slowly rotate the pushrod with my fingers till I get slight stop turning resistance then I turn 1/8 of a turn but used to go a 1/4 but I figured the less pressure on the lifter the more freed up horsepower. Never had a problem. The only problem I had was with a set of used KB 1.6 roller rockers where somebody ground on them to make room for too big of valve springs and the rockers where spliting by the grind marks. Now I have a set of Harlen Sharp roller rockers and shafts and havn't broke anything. My heads are shaved alot so I use big block Chevy length push rods from Smith Brothers. Now BBC has different sizes from In to Ex so it was the ones a little shorter than the OEM Buick rods. The dual springs were installed by height all equal to keep from coil bind. But if you could do it with the intake off that would work also but do it in the same place on every lobe. If you can see every lobe. :TU:
