Hey all, Here is an update on my progress, for all of you who were paying attention. i got my heads back from Gregg Gessler. the max flow went from 280 to @ .550 to 316 @ .550. the heads are back on, cam is dialed in (Thanks Steve Frisby) and the intake is now ceramic coted and back on (all except for one bolt hole that seems to be forcing the bolt in at an angle. but anyway, i am trying to adjust the rockers (T.A 1.6). I know that you have to set the pushrods to 0 lash (i.e no up and down play) then turn the adjuster screw 3/4 turn. but how do you do this when the lifters are new? I DID soak the lifters in oil for 3-4 days, is that unough to "pump" them up? also... the engine is at T.D.C from degreeing the cam, so do i start with the #1 clyinder or #6? then rotate the engine and follow the firing sequence?
here are some pictures..also i posted a picture of a torque bracket my father-in-law thought up and fabricated from a stock P/S pump and a piece of stainless. prety nifty!
Adjusting the lash on hydraulics doesn't require a lifter to be "pumped up", since there actually a spring under the pushrod cup. All you need to do is get the slack out of the pushrod, then do the preload turn which compresses the spring slightly. Devon
ok, now which cylinder do i start on. i know that the valves need to be closed, but its hard to tell when the motor is together and the rockers are not tight enough to watch the springs.
It makes no difference which cylinder you start on. Turn the engine over by hand, and observe rocker arm movement. You'll know after the valve closes, that you are getting close to the bottom of the base circle of the cam lobe. The base is where you want to do the adjustable setting. ElectraJim
Get a "bump-starter" that jumpers 12 volts to the solenoid of the starter so you can bump thru the firing order using the strater instead of turning a wrench. When the intake valve starts to close, set the exhaust. When the Exhaust starts to open, set the intake. OR You can start when #1 is firing @TDC and set #1. Then go thru the firing order turning the motor a 1/4 turn at a time to get to the next cylinder in the firing order. With large duration cams this method is not recommend for mechanicals but I used this on my 255 @.050 hydraulic cam.
electrajim, i know for a fact that i am at T.D.C and my #1 piston is at the top (so im not 180 around) which is the reason i want to know if i should be starting at #1. buick4speed, the problem with knowing when valves are opening and closing is, there is no load on the rockers so it is impossible to observe spring tension.
If number 1 is at TDC on the compression stroke, adjust those valves, then turn the balancer 90° clockwise and do number 8. Move your way through the firing order, turning the balancer 90° each time. Devon
I have a set of Poston (T&D) 1.6 Roller Rockers,and a set of 3/8" T/A Perf Non-Adj.Pushrods(9.350") and my question is:"is it possible to adjust the roller rockers with non-adjustable pushrods,or should use adjustable pushrods and then send the measured pushrod to T/A Perf.,providing that the seat heights are equal?"(yes,I've read...:Smarty: ) Thanks,Jay B.Britt,Jr.
One of the reasons someone gets roller rockers is so they can adjust their valve train. The adjusters on the roller rockers have an optimal adjustment to ensure best pushrod geometry. The bottom of the adjuster should be even with the bottom of the rocker. One thread protruding or one thread recessed in the rocker is allowable. What I did was install the roller rockers with the adjusters level with the bottom of the rockers. I then used my adjustable pushrods to adjust my valve lifter preload. I then measured the pushrods and ordered the correct length pushrods from TA http://www.v8buick.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80259&d=1159320779
Speaking of spring tension, what do you have for springs now? Other than beehives, it's been a while since I have seen single springs for a "Hot" cam.
I am in the middle of this also, my question is not all of the lifters preload at the same height? what length do you get then?
It is not an exact science, you can go 1/4 turn to 1 turn to preload. On the pushrods, if it is .050 or more difference on the pushrod length, you'll need to order a different length. You can order your pushrods individually from Smith Brothers. If you can get the lifters preloaded without adjusting the rocker adjuster too far out, I'd say you are fine. Don't worry if they are not all the exact same. It is common that they are not if they have been re-worked. Just like needing different shims under valve spring to get the same "installed-height". Some machinist are a good as others.....:rant:
Can't believe that no one has mentioned this yet.. Next time you do this, adjust the valves before you put the intake on.. makes it much simpler. JW
You are absolutely right Chris:laugh: :TU: pretty smart guy that Ernie Chambers, is he still a Buick guy?, on V8?
buick4speed. i just have the inner springs out for cam break-in. Larry, i used your way of adjusting the valves. i have 2 threads showing on the adjusters, is this going to be a problem? Gregg Gessler milled off .010 of my heads. but i am going with 3/4 of a turn of adjustement as before i was doing 1/4.
It affects pushrod geometry some. Since one full turn of the rocker adjuster = .050", and you have 2 threads showing, your pushrods are .10" too short. Measure your pushrods and order ones that are .10" longer I wouldn't worry about it now though. Correct it when you can.
