I have searched for a few hours to get a few questions answered without bothering anyone, now I have a few other question that I didn't exactly find an answer to. I tried my best to search the key words that I thought would bring the answers but I need a little help. Just want it to be known that I did search first, so I don't get slammed with a bunch of "DO A SEARCH!!" posts. From my searching, I have found out that there is a low compression 350 and a high compression 350, how would I find out which one I have in my 73 Apollo 2bbl. Assuming I have the low compression 350, is the difference between the two just a matter of pistons and if so, can I just buy a set of higher compression pistons or does the head cc contribute to the low compression also. The reason I am asking is because much like everyone else, I want to to boost the performance level of my 350. Although the 2bbl has nice torque for what it is, I would like to boost the hp and torque to about 300 to 350ish range (I have no clue what its rated at now but its stock). My TA perf intake is on the way and I would like to use the TA 310 camshaft which requires 9.5:1 comp ratio or more. Is my comp ratio high enough to support this cam? If not, is it just a matter of buying higher comp pistons (flat top or something I guess)? I also want to get the exhaust manifolds ported and maybe some 3.23 or 3.42 gears I do plan on getting valve work, upgraded springs,rockers, and a torque converter. Is porting and polishing necessary for my hp and torque goal? Or can I come close without it. Thank you very much for your help and patience!
Welcome to the board Parrish and Kelly! :beer I've been on boards like that and it really rubs me the wrong way. If you know the topic has been covered then why don't you answer for the new guy. :idea2: I could get on a rant. :laugh: I went to buicks.net and found the info your looking for. Scroll down until '73, there are four 350's, depending on carb and exhaust, but you will need the fifth digit of your VIN to tell you which engine you had originally. A 1973 Buick Service Manual will be one of the best tools you can buy. I looked in my '73 manual for the location (buicks.net didnt have the location of the numbers on the 350 after '71) and it is on the drivers side block, between spark plug #1 and #3. The really small part of exposed block not covered by the head. The code will be two letters. VIN____________________Production code G 350-2bbl Dual Exhaust XC H 350-2bbl Single Exhaust XC J 350-4bbl Single Exhaust XB K 350-4bbl Dual Exhaust XB The 1973 Buick Brochure doesn't have the Apollo in either version. I never noticed that. The service manual says Apollo 350-2bbl compression was rated at Compression was 8.5:1 That is all I can help you with, there are alot of Buick 350 gurus on here that can help you with the engine stuff.
how would I find out which one I have in my 73 Apollo 2bbl. there are no 'high compression' Buick engines after 1970. it's merely a question of how little compression you're stuck with. to make your 350 into a 'hi-comp' you'd want to replace the pistons with 1968-70 hi-comp pistons or shallow dish/pop-up hypers or forgeds or something. or does the head cc contribute to the low compression also. all available info is that, aside from AIR passages and other emissions gimmicks, all of the 350 heads are the same.
If the motor is still mechanically sound then that is the prime candidate for a turbo. Food for thought. Jeramie
Great info, Thanks everyone for the info. Ok so I believe everything has been answered. I didn't know about buicks.net, I will be visiting this site as soon as I finish this post so thanks for that too. One more question, is porting the heads a necessity to reach 300 to 350 hp? Or do you think upgrading to the bigger valves would be sufficient enough? Other than that I think I got all of the info I need for now. Thanks again to everyone.
One more question, is porting the heads a necessity to reach 300 to 350 hp? at the flywheel or the rear tires? MTX or ATX? not to get over 300, no. the 'SP' code engine from 1970 was factory rated at 315hp. keep in mind that was a gross hp # at the flywheel. so if you go with a custom cam, recurved distributor, properly sized carb, alum 4v intake and have the block decked while you've got the heads off i should think 350 would be a very reasonable number. don't forget to take the catalytic convertor off the car and install a dual exhaust with headers.
At the flywheel is good enough. I an not sure what atx or mtx stands for. I didnt consider decking the block, but I will now. Thanks for the help! Yeah thats one of the first few things I have noticed so eventually I will have to get a set made. Thanks for the help! So it sounds like it's pretty feasible to hit or at least come close to my target at the flywheel without needing a miracle. Sweet!
Good luck with your project. It isn't easy or cheap to take on a project that is off the beaten path. I spoke to a VERY succesful Apollo sbb racer and he said his custom headers were well north of $1000.00. :shock:
I an not sure what atx or mtx stands for. Automatic and Manual Transmission ( TX is an old radio abbreviation for transmission ). for several reasons, Auto's eat up a lot more power in the drivetrain than a manual does so it's tougher to get big dyno numbers at the rear wheels with one. I didnt consider decking the block, but I will now. much easier and cheaper than replacing all the pistons. but, of course, if you swapped in new pistons you could get any compression ration you wanted.
Hello and welcome. I am one of the Apollo racers. You can take a set of hooker headers and have one of the drive side tubes re routed around the stearing box. On the pass side you have to grind the upper contol arm to clear the header. If it is going to be a street car I would not give it more compresson. Just gear it, cam it, header it, frame connector it, slapper bar it, converter it. Oh ya and hang on. I race one with headers,converter,gears,frame conectors,stock 4 barrel qjet. It runs 8.90 in the heat 1/8 mile. No cam, stock pistons m pump gas. These are great cars. Dan
Great info dan! Thanks, Yeah I just want it to be a cool streetcar that breaks the tires loose every once in a while. I really didnt want to have to boost the compression but it wasnt a BIG deal if I had to but I will take you word for it and do the above first. If the cam I like (TA310) requires 9.5:1 compression should I steer clear of that one or do you think it will be fine? I want a cam that has a nice aggressive lope to it, so it doesnt necessarily have to be that one. It just the first one that caught my attention. Also dual exhaust is a must do item.
For a cool street car with low compression stick with a smaller cam like a TA 212 unless you want to get head porting done and if so then go larger cam and higher compression (allong with that you'll need a higher stall converter, taller gears, and a large carb to take advantage of the higher rpm power of the combo). Install a tach and drive the car while you decide the powerband you want to focus on and then go for that. For example, I did a quick cheap garage rebuild on a low comp 350 for a 4000 pound daily driver so I used a TA RV cam, mild stall converter and it pulls great off idle and maxed out at 4500 for power but thats fine because it had a 2.56 gear so the street rpm not high enough to take advantage of a big cam and porting. I've since installed a hotter 350 and lost some bottom end but love the top end power. You decide on the powerband you want to drive in and we can get you there!
Hey Dan, does the tube have to be drastically changed on the drivers side or just a short section of it. Do you know if TA headers fit any better than hooker. How many Apollo's do you have and what does the Stocker run in your picture. I've got a 74 Apollo I'm building as a back up bracket car hopefully a Stocker one day. It runs 15's stock engine 3.73 gear and 2.5'' exhaust at 4800' elv. They are awesome cars. The good exhaust helped a bunch. Troy
I looked at the ta 212 cam in the catalog, looks like that would be perfect. Thanks for the recommendation.
Casper1Buick "Hey Dan, does the tube have to be drastically changed on the drivers side or just a short section of it. Do you know if TA headers fit any better than hooker. How many Apollo's do you have and what does the Stocker run in your picture." I will have to relook at the headers. I think #5 has to be cut off and totaly remade. I used a new set of Poston's 1 3/4 about 3 years ago to make the last set for my bracket car. T/A's will work just as good. Hookers fit better than Poston. Let think!! I have 6 Apollo's and 1 76 Skylark. 1 Stocker K/SA runs 11's 11.66 best. 1.47 60 foot. before i hadd to add 80 pounds to the balist box. 1 bracket runs 8.90 summer/ 8.60's Fall. This is the car I use all the old slow stocker out dated parts in. It is also the test car for the Transmistions befor they go int the stocker. The motor is bone stock. not even a cam in it. 1 my antuiqe show apollo, that is my street car. 3 parts cars to support my other apollo's. Dan
