my grandpa just finished putting a new timing chain and gears, a new water pump and after wednesday it will have a new distributor,plugs wires, plugs and fuelpump. anyways after putting in the new timing chain,gear and water pump it started to sputter / backfire at higher rpms or even gettin up to speed on the road. my question is this though, will the sputter/backfire at high rpm be remedied after i install the new dizzy,fuel pump and ignition components. o No: also slightly off topic but anyone know where to get a set of low cost headers.
well hey thanks for the help guys and after tommorw the new distributor should be in hopefully that will help otherwise im gonna be a lil po'ed after spending all this money on it lol
got the distributor and all the new ignition parts on and runnin ok but it wouldnt turn so i could time it at all so shut it off and now it wont start again lol im just lovin this car right now :af: :af: :blast: (car)
You just need to try advancing the dist. and if that does not work then retard it... Just move it a bit at a time until it starts, but be sure to snug down the dist. hold down bolt before you start it to avoid a backfire moving the dist.
hey thannks for all the help guys had to put in a new starter cause my other one locked up when it started and was making some horrible sounds but grandpa shut it off before it did serious damage and it was all timing that was way off start up first turn and runs like a champ now anyways thanks:beer
Good to hear! now drive it over to Wenatchee and have Mark Burton install twin turbos on it! He is doing my Skylark right now!
this car hates me so now its backfiring again when the secondaries come open and its makin some other strange sounds. is the car trying to get back at for when i was gonna sell it lol? o No:
thats a good question i do know. my grandpa did the timing he seems to think its a lifter or a pushrod or possibly the manifold that causeing the problem. could ya give me an idea maybe what the timing should be.
The '72 manual says initial timing should be 4 degrees BTDC, with total between 32-40 (keep it closer to 32). He'll need to set initial and then see if the mechanical advance is working properly to get total. Have him check to see that the vacuum advance canister is working correctly also. This is going to come in handy for you both: http://boattail-riviera-by-buick.com/library/documents/1972 buick chassis sm/index.html Devon
Ask your grandfather how much vacuum the engine is pulling, fully warmed up in Park. You may have a vacuum leak. A stock engine should make 20" of vacuum.
got the car back at my place today....my grandpa drove the car 100+miles up here without using the secondaries otherwise it would backfire/pop. i drove it around the block a few times to hear for myself wht exactly is goin on. and its strange cause it wil fire right up no problem then if u tap the throttle too hard it starts popping. i understand u guys tellin me to check all this stuff with the timing. so if there is a way someone could just outline how to check the different parts of the timing that would be cool. my carb may have somthing to do with it toobecause the old paper filter was starting to preak apart so maybe theres some some stuff stuck somewhere in the carb?o No:
one other thing to check is to be sure the accelerator pump has not worn the edge of the sleeve that it is encased in.
It could be some debris in the carb, it could also be that the carb needs to be re-jetted for the Buick 350 since the Holley 650 is a generic carb. If you have a chance find a Q jet from the year and make of your car, it will be calibrated for the engine. Contact either Everyday Performance or Carmantx for a carb if you need one, they can both do quality rebuilds as well.
Sounds a lot like my problem, could be a bad lifter or a flat lobe, maybe try pulling the valve covers and disconnecting the coil and cranking the engine over while watching the rocker arms?
