Hi guys! I want to build a street/cruiser car with at least 550-590 hp with some good midrange torque (but not over 600 lb-ft of torque), but engine/exhaust sound is very important. Engine is a '76. I have a stock block so I wanna keep it below 6000 RPM. Please give me advice on what I need/should buy. I want this to be as "budget friendly" as possible too (even if I already know tuning Buick 455s are no where near cheap...). I'm always running 93 octane on both my 462 and I'm keeping it that way. I've already read this article which is quite impressive: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/0907phr-building-a-721hp-buick-engine/ So my thoughts are: Engine: .030 bore (462 as I currently have, or should I increase the bore and stroke to get a 464 or higher?) Transmission: TH400 (unsure about reinforcements and so on) Stall Converter: ? Cam: TA 413 Compression: ? Intake Manifold: TA SPX or SP2? Heads: TA Stage 2 with some porting done afterwards. (Should I put a spacer on?) Rods: ? Pistons: ? Carburetor: ? (Holley 850 or 950?) Crankshaft: OEM Headers: 1 7/8 inch Rockers: ? (1.6 roller rockers?) Distributor: MSD 8552 Distributor Sparkplugs: MSD Ignition: MSD Blaster 2 Coil? Exhaust: X-pipe with Dynamax race bullets and end pipes thru the rear fender Any ideas?
Few things here 1. Stock block and under 6k doesn't really mean anything,..to make that kind of power your probably gonna have to spin it to 6200 Sp2 intake is for TE heads only Spx is a good choice for a 6500 to 7k engine Sp1 is the overall better choice Carb yes 850 to 1kcfm 4150 Headers 2in for power peak over 6k 1 7/8 otherwise 413cam,...much better choices Heads from TA be prepared to wait,..alooonnngg time,..but yes stage 2 SE heads For the money it's better to go with a 470/482,..IF you can get the rods,.. pretty sure they are backordered from Molnar ,..TA may have the eagles drop in rods that will net you 462 to 464 Converter,.. depends on cam,.. anywhere from 2800 to 3800 for a street car,..the more stall the slushier it's gonna feel on the street,...fact Ignition is all horse **** for the most part under 7k rpm if it's throwing a spark it's fine Th400 with a transgo shift kit is plenty for up to 700hp Compression,... depends,..wanna run corn? Go 13to1,..wanna run 91,...9.8 to 1 max 93,..10.25 safe,..add more duration in the cam you can add more compression say 11.25 on 93
My suggestion Decide on if you gonna wait on the heads? That's first decision if so then here's my suggestion Stage 2 SEs 470/482 if parts are available if not,..I wouldn't sweat it too much Go 464 with prepped stock rods or the drop in eagles or Molnar's,..they offer drop in also Can,..solid grind from Jones,..Bullet,...or Scott if he decides to answer an email or the phone 1.6 rollers if in the budget,..highly recommend 24x,..25x on a 108 to 111 LSA. 540ish lift Sp1 intake 950hp carb 2in headers 3500 stall 373 gear Set compression wherever needed This would be considered a pretty Hot street combo that will run 11s in a full weight car and still be drivable,..but will probably shift around 6200
I want a cam with long duration, mostly for sound, but I dont want to lose much power because of that. Is it better then to bore and stroke it to a 482 or even a 494? Might put a girdle in to be on the safe side…
No difference in a 482 or 494,..just more cylinder wear on the 494,.. you don't need a girdle unless you start pushing the rpm,...and even then I wouldn't,..not available rite now anyway I'm pretty sure
.038 over block, main cap studs, eagle rods, 464. stage2 heads, 10.95 compression, Ta 290HL cam, SP1 intake with Hp950, MSD ignition, 2.25 headers with 3 inch exhaust,no xpipe. 93 octane, 10.90s, drive on street all the time,no problems.
You started another thread to ask the same question. You aren’t going to get anywhere near 500 HP without good heads. Your 76 heads are no good for any performance work. You have two options. One, get some earlier Buick iron heads and have them ported, or buy a set of aluminum heads. Both options will probably cost you the better part of 3000.00. That is what you need to start saving for. There is no budget friendly way to do this unless you can port the heads yourself or score some good heads in a bargain. Sorry if I am bursting your bubble, I just want to give you my honest opinion. When all was said and done, my engine cost 15,000.
One of the big performance stealers for 1976 is that the pistons are unique, in a bad way. The compression height is shorter than previous years. So at first glance, it appears that you might have a shallow dish which would indicate a higher compression ratio, but in fact the whole piston is shorter from the pin up! You mentioned you're at 0.030" right now, it would be nice to see if earlier pistons were used...unfortunately the only way to know is my removing a cylinder head, unless maybe you have a receipt or other paperwork for the previous rebuild? Devon
Note that Mike (AMP) did all the block mods, ran a scavenger oil pump, used breathed on TA stage 2 heads, etc. In 2009. Throwing good parts at a stock engine won't do much.
It's just basically the same $$ if you're buying rods and Pistons,..so it's kinda of a why wouldn't you deal
Drop in rods for the 462-464 $550 Stroker rods are like $625 iirc,...but not available Pistons are available more easily for the 464 .038 over
Can you link to a page where I can buy? I am not Thanks. How difficult and expensive is it to add a girdle to the iron block, and possibly a halo as well? To be on the safe side...
