I need some advice. About a year ago, I broke my m20 leaving a show but made it home in 4th gear. I decided to buy one of the all new muncies with italian gearsets & Auto Gear super cases. The old trans had a problem with jumping out of 1st & 3rd when slowing down. The new trans also has the same problem. I'm thinking the shifter is hitting something or linkage is loose so I found a set of original 3/8" dia. rods & installed them with new bushings instead of the rods that came with the competition plus shifter. I also bought & installed the original shifter mounting bracket instead of the universal type that came with the hurst comp plus. The shifter has adjustable stops, & I've got them all the way out. I can't find anything hitting the shifter in 1st or 3rd, & I'm stumped as to why both transmissions have the same problem. If it makes any difference, I have the consollette installed also. Anybody have any advice? Thanks, Scott
since it is 1st & 3rd gears, sounds like the gears are not engaging all the way. do u have a shifter rod misadjusted.
I've been thinking the same thing, but I think everything is adjusted correctly. Since its 1st & 3rd, wouldn't both rods have to be wrong? That's why I thought the shifter might be hitting the floor or console when it went forward. The shifter was new, but looked like it had been returned or something, it had been out of the box at least. Anybody heard of defective Hurst shifters? Thats the only thing I haven't changed.
Henry I would venture to guess that the shifter is out of alignment or the rods are too short and not engaging the gears all the way. I would go thru the motions again and see if you can better adjust them. I am sure that you know how but a short description. Take all the rods off. Center the shift forks on all gears. install a 1/4 allen thru the shifter in neutral and then adjust the rods to the arms. Now another thought are the arms correct for the shifter and trans ? If the arms are too short you might not have the correct throw to get the gear all the way in. John
This smells like a synchro problem...not uncommon, unfortunately. The synchro rings are usually brass, making them sacrificial. Devon
Devon . I am assuming since the rans is a new unit the syncro should be fine. If this were an older trans I would agree. I bet it can be solved easily and for little money.
John, The rods are some original 3/8" dia ones that I got off of ebay, there is plenty of threads left for adjustment, & I used the little plastic rod that came with the shifter like you said to line the shifter up. One thing I noticed was that there seems to be to much "flop"? where the rods go into the shifter arms. I put the plastic bushing on the pin first, then put the pin in the shifter arm, then that round retaining pin, ring thing. Is that the right way?
Just thinking here but you may need to find some new levers. Hurst has some universal ones with several holes in them you might want to try. I would bet that your not getting all the way in. Try after adjusting the rod put the trans in first gear. Then take the rod off and see if the fork can be moved further into gear. I bet someone here might be able to find some levers if you ask.
Is it possible the stops are set too tightly not allowing the shifter to engage far enough forward? Thats my guess.
John, are the levers you are talking about on the trans, or shifter? Joe, I pulled the stop bolts completely out. Thanks, Scott
The flat levers that are connected to the trans but are part of the linkage. They activate the forks inside the trans and have a bolt inthe center . Do not mix them up. That might be a consideration also. But you need to see if after you have the shifter all thew way in gear if the trans is all the way in gear
It likely needs a new 4th gear synchronizer assembly (slider and rings) which will require it to be torn down. You old one is worn out but may have been reused.
It likely needs a new 4th gear synchronizer assembly (slider and rings) which will require it to be torn down. You old one is worn out but may have been reused. Ask the builder do they reuse these parts.
There is no point in falling short on these parts. There is very little money involved relative to the labor of removing the trans, tearing it down, reassembling and reinstalling it.
Sold the blue 4 speed car back in march, but thanks for the input. Got a deal going on a '70 stage one, local 1 family car. It's kinda rough and missing the original engine but looks like everything else is there. Thanks again, Scott
I know this is an old thread, but the buddy I sold the car to is still having the same problem, and never drives the car because of it. He even had the trans rebuilt. When I did the original install, the rod going from the Z bar to the clutch fork wasn't long enough by an inch or more. I made a new one to "solve" that problem but I think something is wrong there. The only way to get the trans to go in gear when the engine is running is to adjust the clutch all the way out until, I think, I am already pushing on the throwout bearing with the pedal all the way up. Even then you have to push the pedal all the way to the firewall to shift. I feel like I am not getting enough travel? on the clutch fork and by adjusting out too far, I am basically depressing the clutch a little even when my foot isn't even on it. Anyone got any ideas? Maybe Z bar geometry is off a little? Thanks, Scott
Hi Henry, check out this thread. I started having problems with clutch travel, binding linkage. I did not have trouble with the trans coming out of gear though. The problem did keep me from driving for a while... http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...a-70-Stage-1&p=2186266&highlight=#post2186266
