So I checked out the rear drums just now, no signs of leaking. I even had someone press the brakes while watching the cylinders and didn't see any fluid. I also checked the adjustment nut on one side and it runs with pliers, forgot to check the other side For the hell of it I took the Edelbrock 1805 (which bought new, maybe I shouldn't have) off of the Monte Carlo and tested it on the Skylark. It runs crappy as well, only slightly better. What happens with either carb is that if a give it anything more than verrrrrrrry and I mean very gradual gas, it will bog, stutter, and die. Sometimes when it dies it diesels and sometimes it backfires from the carb. I'm sending the Q-Jet out to Ken tomorrow, but I want to be sure that a rebuilt carb will fix my problem! What else would cause this?
As for the brakes, when the fluid runs out and sits dry for a few years the seals will shrink and the wheel cylinders and or the master cylinder may work for a couple of weeks after refilling the fluid. Had that happen with my '65 Impala, the master sat dry for around a year before I towed it home and after refilling and bleeding the brakes they worked fine BUT just for a couple of weeks until the seals were fluid soaked and swelled up again after that the fluid ran back out. GL Derek
I see, I will put the cylinders on my list, but I want to get the engine running well first! Need something to stop right? Also, with enough fingernail scratching, engine degreaser, and a flashlight (yes I'm doing this on Friday night haha), I was finally able to read the "SP" on the engine block! :Brow:
Just went for a nice long drive around town (no freeway yet) and I noticed a few things. It seems to be slightly sensitive to hills (points to carb?). Also the car will have what I can only call "moments of clarity", where she will let me give more gas and drives nice! I haven't driven that many V8s in my life but this engine pulls nice and smooth when it wants to! I feel like it's just waiting for me to uncork it's potential. Anyways it does seem to be more temperamental than I though, for whatever it's worth. I only stalled in a major intersection once! ou:
My point was that it could take a week or 2 to figure out what is making the brake fluid drain out and where its leaving as well. No sense in buying parts until you know what you really need. Then again if you tried to bleed the brakes you could find where the fluid is making its exit right away? No better way to spend a Friday night, have fun with it. GL Derek
How could you watch the cylinders while someone pressed on the brake? If you did that with the drums off and had any hydraulic pressure at all, you would blow the cylinders apart as the drum would not be there for them to push against. You have to fill the system, bleed it, then operate the brakes, THEN take the drums off and look for leakage at the wheel cylinders.
Beat me to it, Larry. Do not push the brake pedal with the drums removed!...........unless you want a big cleanup in aisle 6! With the drums on, and someone pumping the pedal, pressure will build and you can watch the lines and rubber hoses for leaks. Then, after all that, remove the drums and see if the cylinders leaked, as Larry stated.
I missed it the first time I read it. I hoped I was wrong when I reread the post. I thought he was very lucky to not have a real mess.
Alright, I may actually have time to bleed/flush the brakes today, but I have a few questions before I start. I purchased one of those Mighty Vac hand vacuum bleeders. -Should I pump the old brake fluid out of the MC (directly from the reservoir) before doing any bleeding? I read that this is a good idea to prevent the oil fluid from traveling through the system. If yes then do I pump the MC dry? -Do I need to bench bleed the MC? Or bleed the MC in any way before I bleed at the wheel cylinders? My service manual mentions that here are bleeders on the MC itself but doesn't show where they are. -Should I replace the wheel cylinders just due to their age? They "looked" old but I have never done this job. I would do this before anything involving bleeding and flushing correct? -Will I need a special wrench to access any of the bleeder screws? Thanks!!
Replacement master cylinders don't have bleeders, only originals did. I would buy an inexpensive turkey baster and suck out most of the fluid from the 2 compartments. Don't suck it completely dry. Then fill it with fresh fluid. Before you do any of that, I would replace both wheel cylinders. Make sure you use a line wrench on the fittings as you will round them out with a regular open end. Bleeder wrenches are sold in any auto parts store, or just use the appropriate box wrench. It is not unusual for the bleeders to seize in the wheel cylinders and calipers. New wheel cylinders will eliminate that problem obviously.
Thanks!! :beer I'm in the process of doing the wheel cylinders right now, and I decided to spring for a new brake booster and master cylinder as well! Should have the brakes up to snuff (or at least better than barely working) by the end of the week. Also saving up for new drums and shoes. I got my Quadrajet back from Ken at Everyday Performance and even though I got the standard rebuild with no re-coating, it still looks great!! Ken has been extremely helpful throughout the process answering all my questions. I am waiting on an original style fuel hard line (pump to carb) to install it. I am also considering replacing the fuel tank and sending unit, and blowing out the fuel lines with compressed air as I'm fairly certain that there is a restriction somewhere that is causing the car to stall under load. I don't feel like the Edelbrock would case that much loss of power. My guess is the sock on the sending unit is done for and the 10 year old gas has clogged it. Anyways I want to clean the fuel system before I bolt the rebuilt carb on so I don't subject it to the "dirty" 10 year old fuel. Does the above all sound sane?
Good plan. For the fuel tank here is what I do: Remove the fuel tank, hang it from the garage rafters using rope in the flat position, add a package of BBs (Yes Bee bees for a gun), a bottle of carb cleaner, and a bottle of trans fluid. Swish it around, let it soak for a few hours and swish it around again... If it is really dirty let it sit overnight... Drain the tank, shake out all the BBs, rinse with fuel, and then put back in the car. Always replace the rubber sections of the line with fuel grade hose and new hose clamps. If there is rust inside the tank either buy a new tank or use the POR fuel tank sealer and use that to seal the rust away from the fuel. If the tank is very rusty I would replace it.
Easy with the parts ordering. Replace only what needs replaced. Lots of folks spend thousands replacing perfectly good parts because they get trigger happy. Ie- buying a total front end rebuild kit when you only need 1 tie rod end . Your pocket book will thank you. I would however replace the brake hoses.
