:bglasses: Putting the tank in now, also put in a new sending unit and rubber lines. I have a 3 vent tank (CA emissions?) So I replaced most of the vent hoses as well. Maybe I'll be able to put the rebuilt carb on tonight!! :Brow:
Ok is it necessary to keep the rubber mat that goes on top of the gas tank? Mine in completely dry and cracking and I want to get the tank it tonight so I can't get a new one. I do have a fender cover (for when you're working under the hood), can I use that? It seems like it would function the same. Or some pieces of foam?
It is a good idea to have something in there to act as a sound damper and keep the tank from rubbing the bottom of the car but as long as it is nothing that will hold moisture it should be okay.
Got it, the fender cover it is! Sean thanks for responding to my posts at this hour haha. By the way I just watched a couple of videos that I found of you driving around town in the turbo car, badass!! Not sure how old they were.
This is the recent one. A few months old. I rebuilt the steering, and did some other upgrades since the video, also got an alignment done. The rattles are mostly the side windows as I have not put in the new weatherstripping since I had it painted. Engine is out now as the torque converter could not handle the power and was slipping too much: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmdHBrNNOpQ And here is old video from years ago when Mark had it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgEdT2jdkd8
You did paint the area above the tank, and the tank itself, while you had it out, right? A little protection goes a long way.
Sounds great Sean!! Can wait for your book as well! I actually didn't do anything externally to the tank, although I perhaps should have. But I think if this tank rusts out I'm just going to go with a new one this time. Cleaning it turned out to be more of a PITA than I expected and a new tank would have saved me a whole day's worth or "dancing with the tank" in the driveway to get the BBs out. The neighbors probably thought I was crazy! Anyways, the tank is in, rubber fuel lines replaced, rebuilt carb installed and I'm still getting the intense bogging! :ball: the problem feels slightly better, but not by much. I'm probably just feeling the Q-Jet being better than the Eddy? the The next thing I'm going to do is buy a fuel pressure gauge, zip-tie it to the hood, and take a drive. Hopefully that will tell me if the fuel system is still suspect or if I should be looking somewhere else. Planning to get a decent liquid filled gauge for an accurate reading.
I'm thinking fuel pump. Pressure should be around 4-5 psi stock. I have a stock pump but I also run a Holley blue pump at the tank regulated to 7 just before the carb. The .125 needle and seat is good for the 4-5psi, but if the QJet was rebuilt using the high flow a .135 I'd stick to a min. of 5psi. If the engine is still bogging after you verify the pressure, is it bogging at full throttle or part throttle, or just off-idle? If it's bogging at full or part throttle I'd make sure the tension is good on the secondary air-horn spring, but make sure you're getting enough fuel before you start tinkering on the QJet.
It's been a while since I looked at this thread! It turns out it was the ignition causing the bog. Since then I've installed an HEI (Dave's Small Body), a TA dual plane, and a rebuilt carb by Ken at everyday performance with electric choke conversion. No more bog with the HEI! :3gears: It's coming along, but I am currently fighting a ping at WOT. I just discovered the other day that it won't ping when the engine is still cold, making me wonder if the choke being closed is making it run richer and better. I have messed with the timing (and read the power timing thread) but just recently I installed a narrow band O2 sensor in my exhaust to try and see if a lean condition is actually the culprit. I'm reading the output voltage with a multi-meter as described here (near the bottom of the page): http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm Today was actually my first day with the multi-meter hooked up. So far it looks like it'll idle around 700mv - 900mv, then lean out to 300mv - 400mv at cruise. At WOT it will go to 900mv - 1100mv, but I try not to floor it because of the ping. Anyone else have any experience tuning with a narrow band and a multi-meter? I just ordered a few jets and secondary rods as that's what Ken said I should tune with first. I will try a set of big-block secondary rods and if that doesn't work try upping the primary jet size one size and side at a time to see what happens (this all based on Ken's advice). I will also check the secondary air horn spring as you mention above.
What kind of gas are you using? I got rid of all my ping issues when I resolved to use 93 octane and nothing less. If I run 87 or even 89 I get some detonation once she's warmed up unless I dial the timing back.
I'm using 92 octane, the highest available here in CA ou: I do have the "high compression" SP 350 so that has occurred to me but what can I do . . .
You can actually measure your total advance at WOT, and then see how much vacuum advance you are adding. When is all the mechanical advance all in? Your SP 350 was never designed to run on 92 or 93 octane fuel. In 1970, premium pump gasoline was leaded 98 octane. You may need to dial back the timing to eliminate detonation at WOT. Your engine has relatively high static compression coupled with a smaller stock cam. That alone will make it need the higher octane fuel. http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html I suggest you disconnect and plug the vacuum advance and just work with the total WOT timing. See if you can eliminate the WOT ping by reducing the total and how early it comes in. Once you have eliminated the ping (it may not be possible on 92). Then add in the vacuum advance. You may need to adjust that as well.
Perhaps a Crower level 4 cam could help bleed off some of that static compression to be able to run 92 octane without pinging? Derek
I would try different gas station and recheck Ned lower full timing little. SP engines so far measures out to be 9.4 compression with shim type gaskets. Felpro head gaskets will drop it to 9.2 . Should be fine on premium fuel. . Continue tuning. What's vacuum advance source? Ported or manifold? . May be lean on top still? I'm all for the crower cam but with more compression not less. Just my thoughts.
It would be easy to see if the roll pin sheared. Pull the distributor again, look at the end. The roll pin should be inline with the pin holes in the gear. It is possible that it sheared and grabbed/ locked on again in a different location than original. Should be super easy to check that. Good luck on the car purchase.
Whoo 98 octane? Wish they still had it at the pumps! My total timing is currently at 32* and all in by 2500. I actually have been driving it with no vac advance this whole time. I tried connecting it to ported vacuum when I first put the new distributor back in but it made it ping even worse, so I just plugged it so I could tune just the mechanical advance. I'm using an MSD advance kit that comes with the springs and bushings. Have only messed with the springs, not the bushings yet. Should I try 30* total and all in by 3000? Isn't that close to a stock very long timing curve? It runs perfectly fine if I don't floor it and don't go past about 50% throttle. I can get to 100% throttle with no ping but I have to go very slowly on the accelerator. It will ping at WOT from both a stop and on the freeway. From a stop the car feel sluggish, I know there's more power in there! Also I noticed it didn't ping in when the engine was cold when the choke is closed so that's why I'm suspecting a/f issues. Also Ken told me that he put all stock .68" jets, 43b primary rods, and CT secondary rods. So I'm wondering if it's running lean. My ghetto oxygen sensor seems to be telling me so but I'm very new to carb tuning. I'm basically trying to use the process of elimination in regards to timing or fuel issues so I know what actually needs tuning.
Try one thing at a time . Either do the timing or jetting carb. If the o2 reads lean then that would be best place to start. Today's oxygenated ethanol added fuels run way leaner then years ago. So yes it's way lean .
Got it. Yeah I'm leaving the timing where it is right now (32 total, all in at 2500) and I have a few pairs of jets and a pair of big block secondary rods coming. Going to try the rods first then play with the jets. I can't wait until I figure it out and am no longer scared to get on it in the Skylark! I just hope I haven't f**ed the engine up too bad already with this pinging.
Hold the fort bud! You have a detonation problem and your starting with the jets? It very well might be the final solution but it's opposite order of solving it. Your engine might be Fubar'ed already, may need to check the oil filter. You will probably continue to thrash it because you stopped at some point thinking you are fixed because you can't hear it any longer. It's best to START by pulling the timing way back and creeping up on what it will tolerate for total. THEN you can play with the jetting and try to add back the timing...if it will take it. You'll have to live with the idle timing being "off" a bit until you can finalize your tuning and solve your problems. When I say "see what it will tolerate" for total timing...I'm not referring to audible det. or ping heard from inside the vehicle. Audible det. is the equivalent of 9 or 10 on a 1-10 scale, with damage occurring at 2 or 3. You'll need to be well below audible det. to begin reading plugs.
X2, by the time you hear it, engine damage is imminent. An SP350 all stock may not want to run on 93 with 32*. You need to find out what timing it will tolerate the way it is right now. Buick used 30-34* total, but like I said, back in 70, we had 98 octane leaded premium. I've mentioned this before, but I would never hold my engine wide open without some race gas in it. Anytime I go down the track, it has leaded 110 mixed in with the 93 pump gas. On the street, it runs fine on 93, and I never get anywhere near WOT, and if I do, it is for a very short time. There is no sense in flooring it anyway, without sticky tires, it goes sideways.
