I got a little more work done on the intake. Art, I think your idea has some merit, provided everyone wants a 4bbl single plane. Would that work going the other way? I remember back in the day there were some intakes out there with a removable top that just bolted on so you could just change the top to whatever system you wanted. Single 4bbl, pair of dueces, six pack or dual quads or even a blower. There was a certain appeal to that approach. I've been putting in a lot of hours the last few weeks, but before I could get to the next step I had to buy and install some equipment and then do a lot of cleaning and repair. There's still lots more of that to do but I was finally able to get to the next steps. First I cut some blocks of 3/4" square stock and heliarced them to the ends of the triangular wedges. Considering that 2 weeks ago I had no heliarc that took some doing. Then using those blocks to bolt the wedges to the milling machine table I took a clean up cut on the hypotenuse left jagged by the table saw. Being as the mill is still in the process of being retrofitted that also took some creativity and a lot of work. But now that that big hurdle is past I can dye the surfaces and transfer the port outlines from the lifter valley cover and figure out how I'm going to cut out the ports. The mill isn't really ready for that job yet but I may be able to find a way. To do it I really need to put the lathe back together first and use that to "adjust" a bearing cap for the cross feed on the mill and that also involves buying about 5 gallons of synthetic gear oil and maybe some other lubricants too. Or, and this is certainly the quickest and easiest, I could take them down and let Ken cut them on the waterjet. It's also the more expensive of the two options since I'll have to buy the gear oil anyway but it's looking better and better. Well, stay tuned. I should know the answer to that one before long. After that the runners should be pretty easy. Jim
Jim, Yes a topless manifold could be built but bottomless/welded would be more,"stealthy". I think a wider floor runner,(bottomless), may work better for velocity/flow. Building a topless/bolt-on top 4bbl will be a challenge for machining and sealing. I'm not clear on your 45deg. angle pieces as to angle of port trajectory? If it's perpendicular to one suface,can you tig/tack weld 2 pieces together for ease of maching? If any of this is possible, perhaps you can "drill" the courners of your ports for correct fillet size? This will allow larger dia. end mill for faster machining of ports. Good luck, Art.
Art, I will probably angle the ports upwards a bit to both give good room for the injectors but at the same time lift the runners above the floor (valley cover) and give an air gap. That means the pieces can't both be machined at the same time. Each wedge will have to be held at the correct angle (undetermined so far) for drilling/machining. This will also apply to the hold-down bolts of course, which are at a different angle. Then, the ports will also need to transition from the port size in the heads to the internal size of the rectangular tubing. But, one step at a time. Jim B
Jim, Nice job on the machining. Are you going to "flow bench" this combo when done? Any special,"coatings" on pistons/chambers? Art.
No Art, believe it or not this is a cheapo rebuild. No exotic coatings, no non-essential work. As a former whitewater guide and a student of flow dynamics I have a pretty firm grasp on what the intake passages will do, and with the blower on there I'm going to exceed my horsepower goals no matter what I do. That's not to say I'm going to take shortcuts. I've just spent 2 days porting the angle blocks to match the runners to the ports and still have the top and bottom yet to do the finish work on. Probably another day to finish that up. I haven't calculated the runner volume yet either, though I've been working on it. Somewhere Dan Jones posted the port volume for the 300 intake. I just haven't found that yet. Once I finish the porting I may cc the angle blocks and valley cover so that I will know the complete runner volume, which should help in knowing what part of the band it is going to be tuned to. Then if I want I may be able to make some adjustments. A buddy has a BMW evaporator core I'm considering for the intercooler. I don't know if an AC based system will have enough thermal density for sustained operation, but if it can handle a 12 second burst without too much temperature climb I think it'll be fine. Jim
great progress man did you ever get a timeslip with the older setup? guessing since you said 12 second bursts that you atleast do 12s lol
You know what Mike? I've never ran it a full 1/4 mile for time. But I do have the old timeslip from way back then, July of 2003. Now you guys are the dragsters, I'm not. So these numbers will make some sense to you and you'll know how to interpret them so I'll give you everything that was on the slip and maybe you can give me your interpretation. R/T I guess that is reaction time and I was pretty slow.. 1.388, should be able to pick up some time there. 60' was 2.335 and I have no idea if that is good or bad. 330 was 6.050, and 1/8 was 9.059@81.90mph which I'm guessing is at least decent. 1000 was 11.638 and 1/4 was 14.194@78.21 so it's pretty clear that I shut down shortly after passing the 1/8 mark, I'm just not sure when. So yeah, I think 12's could be in my future if I can get the jump timed. With the posi and considering the way the big block car hooks up I'll probably be a little disappointed if I can't at least get close. But it'll probably take some practice. I think I'll have better traction and should have a few more horses to work with but the biggest benefit I think will be better reliability. Jim
:Brow: Jim, Really "quick" drivers can run around .005 sec. reaction times or better,lots of practice. I believe the conversion constant from 1/8 mi. to 1/4 mi is X 1.65? Most door slammers want at least 10/1 launch ratio,(in first). Many of the, "Hi-Tech", coatings can be done at home/shop with an air-brush or detail gun and a big enough oven- iffun the missus don't mind. You might want to look at "Techline Coatings". I've used them.On a "side" note, I'm adapting transverse t-axle to Rover. Good Luck, Art.
Jim, On the A.C. core intercooler, what is the cooling medium? Will this car have A.C. ? Send pm. ? roverman.
Geez Art, you mean a good driver could pick up almost a second and a half just on reaction time? Well heck, that'd put the car into the 12's before I pulled the 215, and half tracking it. Maybe I should be shooting for 11's? What kind of horsepower does it take to do that with a 2400 lb car? Jim
reaction time has zero effect on E.T but if you sleep at the starting line the other guy gets a big head start.
Aha! OK so that helps. (edit: You mean you can have a lower ET and LOSE?!!) Then using Art's multiplier of 1.65 my 9 second 1/8 run would be 14.95 in the 1/4... nope that can't be right, not when the clock said 14.194 and I'd slowed down 3 mph. OK forget that, just for curiosity, is there a way to determine how much horsepower it'd take to do a 9.059@81.90mph in the 1/8 in a 2400 lb car? Doesn't seem like that would be all that hard to calculate. And I'm back to hoping I might get into the 12's and not being entirely disappointed if I don't I guess. (What is a 10:1 launch ratio?) Jim
Jim, you will need to put about 1 hp onto the track (traction) for every 9lbs of weight shifted, so an average of about 266 hp through the rpm range to break into the 11 second zone with a little to spare. Moroso Power Speed Calculator #89650, it's just a cheap plastic slide rule with calculators for weight, hp, mph, et, gear ratio, rpm, tire diameter, displacement and compression ratio. Bargain.
Thanks Wal. That helps put it into perspective. I should be able to get more horsepower than that out of the 340 so maybe with enough traction it would be possible to get there. I was sort of wondering if I could figure out the horsepower of the 215 I had in the car, since I never dyno'd it. Jim
Jim, When I said "launch ratio"= first gear ratio x final drive ratio. Just a starting point. Tire diameters will affect ratio a lot. Automatics a little different, up to 2.45/1 torque multiplication in convertor. I wish these "speed calculator slide rules" had an "aero drag" factor.Can you smell the rubber? roverman.
OK, well I should be good on that with the 3.54 axle ratio and plan to use the 200r4. Tires are about 26-1/2" iirc. Have posi. Engine horsepower should be in excess of 300. Jim
hey Jim, beautiful work! I have been taking more and more interest in this thread, as of the recent head developements.. Would you happen to know what the max overbore might be for a street/strip 340? Thanks, wes
