Remove the rad and grill so that you can slide the cam out easily. No you do not NEED to change the bearings unless they are damaged. how is your oil pressure. Changing the cam bearings is difficult to do with the engine in the car. Swap in the cam and turn it over to be sure it spins freely before putting the timing set on and degreeing the cam.
I do not have a oil pressure gauge so i am unable to tell.I will get one and fit it what should the pressure be.I was thinking of fitting new ta modded timing cover and oil pump when i change the cam.Is there anything else i can do to improve performance when changing the cam, only want to take apart once until i can afford forged rods and pistons. Thanks for all the advise
This is my new favorite thread. Mid 15 second car suddenly in the 12's with a power adder, YEAH! My suggestion for ET would be to get a little more at the starting line. A bit more gear, converter, and tire (or some combination of those) would allow you to ramp the nitrous hit in harder. A 10th in the 60' is worth more in a full pass.
my tyres are mt drag radials 60ft times are 1.8 got a 1.79 and i want to keep 2.56 gears for the 200mile trip to track.got whole 150 shot straight in from start. fastest run went like this reaction.295 60ft 1.8182 330ft 5.2224 1/8 et 8.1146 mph84.91 1000ft et 10.6436 1000ft mph 95.65 1/4 et 12.8192 1/4 mph 103.03 no traction problems at all stuck like glue from start
in general you should be most concerned with the oil pressure once the engine revs up. Idle pressure may be low however as long as you have about about 35 psi at 3000 rpms and 60 psi at 5500 you are ok. Not a bad idea to change the timing cover but only if the oil pressure if bad. If pressure is good then just add a new water pump, timing set, cam, lifters and gaskets. To add performance I would look at having the heads ported however this does cost $. Head porting is the best bang for the $ after a cam swap. Not a bad idea to save up for when you rebuild the engine with forged rods and pistons and have a spare set of heads ported, oversized valves ready to go while you drive the car and save up for for the rebuild.
Some more video of me at the track my mate is driving in the first shot http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKTaVnFh_v0 enjoy.
Nice video!! not many people get in the 12s with a stock 350 and 2.56 gears!!! Keep up the great work!!
Just a quick one question how rich should i run the carb my air fuel gauge was reading 9.6 can i run a leaner setup.I run that rich because of i leaned out in my early runs and back fired through the carb.
In general use the air fuel ratio info from your meter as just that... Yes the air fuel is good info however also keep the other sources of data you can gather. There is not magic air fuel ratio for a given car combo, tune for the highest MPH as well. Do you have a meter in each side of the dual exhaust? As you know not all of the cylinders will not all burn the same.... The air fuel ratio meter is only seeing the average of all the cylinders that feed that exhaust pipe so it is by no means a precision tuning tool. Use the air fuel information as well as the other info from reading plugs, track times, and seat of the pants feel. Here is a link to some info for you. http://www.mindsciencemotorsports.com/graphics/nit variables.htm
I am sure with tuning you can get into the 11s without head porting and still with the 2.56 gear... It will take the right camshaft and some tuning. Spend some time trying different timing settings. What rpms is your timing coming in by and are you running the timing retard with your box? A safe setting for timing should be about 27 degrees however each combo is different. Try reducing timing till the car slows down then you can run only as much timing as you need. Have you spent any time trying different spark plugs or plug gaps? I would try a set of NGK plugs, many nitrous users prefer then to the AC delco. Is there a chassis dyno near you? If so, it would be quick to get your tune up dialed in without the track variables... Carb jetting may need some work although it all changes with the size of the nitrous shot and the other nitrous variables like bottle temp. Here is a 11 second combo for you to read: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=86721&page=2&highlight=spark+plugs+nitrous
Hi sean I am not runing the ignition box at the moment as i have not got it fixed or replaced removed the electronic ignition also as it plays up.I have points and a blaster 2 msd coil.I have found if i use ngk ur5 plugs gapped to 35 tho the car runs great.Timing is all in at 3000 rpm at set at 27 deg total.I also need to get a bottle warmer for the nitrous to control the pressure.As for dyno every.place i speak to want 300 about $400 to dyno the car without setting up the carb just gives me read out from the dyno.I would rather spend money on parts and run at the track.
You could swap in a 200r4 trans to get OD & then use ~3.42 gears. You'd get the best of both worlds; lower gearing for the strip & easy cruising. Very impressive times!
Keep in mind you are running nitrous and are going to have traction problems for sure even if you stay with he 2.56 gears. To take advantage of the overdrive gear you would want something closer to 3.73 or 4.11. The above setup in overdrive (4th gear) would be very close to the same rpms as your car is now with the 2.56 gear on the highway in 3rd gear. What you gain by going with the 3.73 or 4.11 is torque multiplication and better off the line performance if the tires bite and you launch well. If you use crappy tires the gears will only cost you time due to extra wheel spin. The nitrous makes big power off the line, you will have your hands full as it launches!
I hope your 13:1 a/f ratio is not with nitrous. When using nitrous, you want to shoot for about 11.8:1. 12:1 max if you are brave. If you are seeing 13:1 with nitrous increase your fuel jet size before running the system again.
