1966 Riviera GS Crank No start. Suggestions needed.

Discussion in 'Classic Buicks' started by ArnoldsMind, Aug 24, 2020.

  1. gsx455-4ever

    gsx455-4ever Gold Level Contributor

    I saw that Larry but it appears to be a lot and it continues thru each revolution . I don't know how long he waited after he poured it in and then started to crank . Or if he cranked with the plugs out a few times before filming it .

    He should also check the oil level and smell it too .
     
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    It won't start like that.:)
     
    gsx455-4ever likes this.
  3. gsx455-4ever

    gsx455-4ever Gold Level Contributor

    Larry . I just saw where he left the Sea Foam in the spark Plug holes over night . Now was that the first cranking he filmed ?? Even if it was overnight I'm sure a lot of the Sea Foam would have leaked past the rings into the crankcase .

    Lets see what he comes back with .
     
  4. ArnoldsMind

    ArnoldsMind Well-Known Member

    I unscrewed it and was able to flip it without lifting whole unit. I have tried it all of the different direction. With the timing mark at TDC.
     
  5. ArnoldsMind

    ArnoldsMind Well-Known Member

    It's Seafoam Engine Treatment, I left it in overnight. I was trying every YouTube trick to get the pistons to move faster. The Fuel pump hose was disconnected for those cranks.
     
  6. ArnoldsMind

    ArnoldsMind Well-Known Member

    And blown out with an air hose to dry. After the cranking.
     
  7. ArnoldsMind

    ArnoldsMind Well-Known Member

    Yes that was the 1st crank the next morning. Sacrificed my phone for that visual. Haven't been able to get a 360 turn over with plugs in. It's takes a 2 or more turns of the key to get back to TDC
     
  8. ArnoldsMind

    ArnoldsMind Well-Known Member

    It's not gas. I took out the stock Carb and put in a Holley. It opens and shuts fine. It was Seafoam Engine Treatment.
     
  9. gsx455-4ever

    gsx455-4ever Gold Level Contributor

    You probably have it correct Larry . its 180 out .
     
  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Arnold says he was able to reverse the rotor, but everything I know about them says they only go on one way, unless he forced it?
     
  11. ArnoldsMind

    ArnoldsMind Well-Known Member

    There was no notch stopping it from being seated the opposite way. It was a shot in the dark since I have had no luck with anything less. The only sign of life I got in the last month was spitting from the carb.
     
  12. gsx455-4ever

    gsx455-4ever Gold Level Contributor

    Every GM dist from the 1950's to the 1970's has a rotor that has a small circle and a small square on the underside of the rotor so it is installed only one way . They cannot be put on 180 our unless its forced on and never seated correctly .

    Even if its a HEI distributor there is a Notch that aligns the rotor only one way as Larry said . You need to start with the basics such as getting #1 cylinder on TDC and going from there . Larry explained it quite well in a previous posting
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    OK, Let me show you a picture of the underside of a GM HEI rotor,
    RotorHEI.jpg
    Next to the screw on the right, there is a slotted portion of the plastic. There is a tab on the distributor rotor mount that fits into that slot. The only way you could reverse the rotor would be to force it on, or grind a slot in the other side.

    Now for the Points rotor,
    RotorPoints.jpg
    Look to the inside direction of each screw. There are two pegs, one is square, the other round. The rotor mount has corresponding openings, one square, one round, so unless you force things, and put a square peg in a round hole, and a round peg into a square hole, the rotor only goes on one way.

    You still need to follow my #12 post. Turn the crank with a breaker bar while someone holds their thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. Once you feel the compression, continue to turn the crank clockwise (looking from the front) until the balancer mark lines up with the timing tab. Look where the rotor firing end is pointed. Is it at #1?
     
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  14. ArnoldsMind

    ArnoldsMind Well-Known Member

    Will do. Check back in for a reply tomorrow.
     
  15. ArnoldsMind

    ArnoldsMind Well-Known Member

    No luck. Turned it back around to the notch. Same result. Still not spinning fast enough or freely.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. gsx455-4ever

    gsx455-4ever Gold Level Contributor

    Just turning the rotor around is not going to help you . I don't understand how you can do it to begin with . I know you want the quick cure and the quick answer but you need to follow Larry's advice in post # 12 .
     
  17. ArnoldsMind

    ArnoldsMind Well-Known Member

    I followed everything. Out of the box the Rotor was turned down n the direction of the notch. I turned it around as a shot in the dark. After your reply, I turned it back to where the notch lined up. I rotated the crank til the #1 cylinder had compression. I pointed the rotor to the #1 cylinder and seated the HEI and rachetted down the fork. The result was the same as before. Not sure what you think I am missing.
     
  18. gsx455-4ever

    gsx455-4ever Gold Level Contributor

    If you indeed placed the dist rotor correctly at Cylinder #1 on the compression stroke then the only other things you need for an engine to start is Fuel and Spark . And you said you have those . Recheck to be sure .
     
  19. ArnoldsMind

    ArnoldsMind Well-Known Member

    I think it's a Fly Wheel or Crank issue, it's just not spinning fast enough. I have a high torque starter on the way. That's my last stop. If that doesn't work I'm sending it to a professional. I have shocked myself a few times checking spark, and I'm pouring fuel past the carb.
     
  20. 322bnh

    322bnh Well-Known Member

    Known good and fully charged battery?
     

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