Got the response right away from TPP... No problem. Return for a refund. The problem is the bottom of the invoice reads "25% restocking fee on ALL returns" Hmmm... Plus the postage. I think it came from URANUS this time. Used one set of door handle and lock gaskets today. Must fit the chinaman car company models. Barely usable, but mine had none upon disassembly, so I used them (and a hole punch). Gonna contact the mirror guys that Larry linked above. I just needed to make a quick small order and thought what the heck... URANUS 12, Willy ZERO. Anyway, got the door gasketed, and rubbered, cleaned and lubed the handle stuff, then pulled the mirrors completely apart, wet sanded and primed first coat and walked away for the day. Ill go out and admire my handy work again later. Bill in TR
So looking at these guys website: http://www.burcoinc.com/products/online_catalog/ The only Buick stuff they show is for the BIG cars... Hmmm I perused a few others and it seems as tho the 1975 Camaro is a fit. I measured mine at 5" X 2-7/8" and the Camaro is 4-15/16" X 2-7/8". They also give a diagonal measurement so Ill hafta confirm that before ordering. Off to the shop.... Bill in TR
Soooo. their numbers match mine so I ordered one. Now we wait (free shipping!). Meanwhile, we are in a snow squall, so todays gun show is off. Looks like a sub part assembly day in the shop. More door handle work and assemble the mirrors that got painted yesterday...Maybe pull the inner fender into the shop to let them thaw out and lookem' over... Note to self: Clean that dang camera lense... Bill in TR
MAN! ARE YOU EVER A DEDICATED BUICK GUY OR WHAT! You mustve left just right; we are getting hammered with about 6 inches of lake snow as we speak. Enjoy your ride! Bill in TR
Had to battle the frozen tundra again this morning to get out to the shop. About 4" of fluffy stuff and a 40Kn breeze off the lake made for some interesting drifts. Felt like Doctor Zhivago before I was done. Emerged from the shop 5 hours later and no evidence of tonnage removed. Now the wife says shes got a Dr's apt and has to leave at 0715hrs tomorrow. Theres an LOL in there somewhere! Managed to finally get my game on... oh shoot! Theres some kind of big baseball game or somethin' today aint there??? I had the radio on; the local one that plays the same 7 tunes all day and they all suck. Time to grab the CDs outa my truck. Anyway, got both sides done with the drip rail weather-stripping. Not a bad job, but a ton of adhesive to clean out. Got the drivers side door handle on and pulled the lock out for a new gasket. None in place from before. Them little door handle screws really blow, ya know? Arms are scraped up and sore. I swear the factory files sharp edges on the stuff or tack welds razor blades inside the doors and under the dash! The GD thumb button still sticks in and needs a karate chop to pop it out. Im gonna live with it forever cause that bastard aint coming apart again. Did a little preliminary alignment on that door as well. I can see that job with the fenders is gonna be a real picnic! Wet sanded the mirrors again for a second coat of paint and gave them the old' Earl Sheib treatment; baked them in the infra red oven for a few hours, and got one assembled before calling it quits for the day..."Ill paint any car for $29.95" Actually had a few done back in the day... Bill in TR
Man... a couple of guys get a few snowflakes and the world stops turning. A few east coasters bailed for Florida, while us penguins dug in...yeah, yeah, yeah... We had some running to do so I was put on secret probation for a few days LOL... Had the wife come out to see whats what, and handed her a ratchet and let her run the door hinge bolts in while I balanced the door on a 5 gallon bucket with a pair of 2x4s and a rag on top. The perfect height BTW. Grabbed the inner fenders from under a snow bank covered in doggy wee-wee and brought them in to thaw out so I can assess the real story on them. Havent seen them since November. Grabbed the drivers side fender off the pile and commenced to hack the rotten stuff out of it. The POs bondo job started to separate, and a nudge with a screw driver popped the whole schlameel off. Made the look-see that much easier. Ended up cutting way back into good steel and fabbing a nice replacement panel with the ol' new harbor fright sheet metal brake. Its now officially paid for itself. After the junk was cut out and de-burred (I use a cut off wheel), I made up a template outa gasket material for a better fit. Clamped it in place with the welders vise grips and tacked it all over. The reason for the gaps is two-fold. Ones for the fiberglass filler to penetrate and get a grip and the other is to control warpage. Two full coats rasped into shape a skim coat to finish. Longboarded with 120 and then finished with 220 and about 5-6 coats of primer; to be wet sanded tomorrow. Wifes making meat ball sammiches for dinner! Yumm-EEEE Bill in TR
First of all a big thanks goes out to all concerned installing the 6 speed drive into the forum! Things seemed pretty lackluster the last few days, even tho I don't usually get much input, I know that some of youze guys are entertained at the least from my posts. So, we are off to the races! Mr.Olds.... Thanks Frank; that Olds rear end is a type "O". I ran the 4 nuts off the backing plate and put the drum on backwards. This aint never gonna work! A few minor slams against the lug nuts and I landed on my ass, with the axle and drum in hand. Dropped it off at carquest today at 2p.m. and by 4 pm they called to say it was done. The job was $51.00 for the seal and labor and they managed to save the bearing! Will pick that up tomorrow and install. PO said he rebuilt the entire rear unit and it looks like it. I don't get why the seal leaked, but that's history. Notice the dribble on the housing from the leak. Now on to Larry... Ordered a mirror glass from http://www.burcoinc.com/products/online_catalog/ as per a '75 Camaro. Free shipping and had it in 3 days... NO MORE TPP ! An exact fit that's not going on until assembly! All that stuff is wrapped up cozy in a box with a new soft towel! Thanks again for that link pal! Yer on my Christmas list for next year! Since the last time we spoke (!) Ive got both doors finished and hung, and the drivers side front fender, altho less than stellar is very serviceable. Waiting for it to dry so I can flip it over for some engine bay side detailing. Finished up todays debaucle with a vigorous wire wheeling with a Matabo grinder on the wheel tubs and a coat of primer on the inside. O.J. (that's for orange jumpsuit; the stepson) is supposed to come by tomorrow to finish painting the frame and parts. Now, Ive got an issue, well maybe not... the car is up on jackstands, so theres a little case of plausible deniability. The drivers door is hung but not adjusted. Im not gonna make any finals until the tires are back on the ground. What say ye body exspurts? Before the repair the joint was pretty good, but now looks terrible. This side takes some effort to close tight and to open as well. The passenger side is nice. I had all the pivot points marked, but with cleaning, painting, and new door hinges, that stuff all got tossed outa the window... Bill in TR
Glad the axle trick worked for you. The upper hinge...where it mounts on the door...moving the door out there should pull that in. It looks like the door is low there also...hard to tell from the angle. The "USA" cylinder is neat...you don't see that much now. What's up with the "curly Q" in the brake line? Now I'm looking at the pics again. Where is the seal? The seal should be in the axle tube and you need a puller to get it out.
The curly Q brake line is just one facet of the PO's mechanical prowess. Off the shelf one size fits all brake line. Hope it doesn't get caught in that coil spring LOL... At least they are all new. Heres an email response from JDrace on the Olds rear end. Now Ive gotta count the splines. The axle that came out has no "land" for an inboard seal to ride on (in the pics above) and, the seal the shop changed was in fact a #2146 which is called for an open bearing (oiled from differential). A sealed bearing uses the inner and outer seals. I guess its all part of the learning curve! When I stuff that axle in Im gonna use a dab of anaerobic sealant on the seal fit to ensure leak proofness. The pic shows something, maybe dirt at the 12:00 position and maybe an oil puddle or damaged fit on the bore at the bottom at the 6:00 position. This is the email C&P: " BILL - THE REAR IS A 12 BOLT OLDS 67-70 ERA THE REAR HAS BOLT IN AXLES JUST LIKE A BUICK OR PONTIAC REAR. IF THE REAR IS A 1970 IT WILL HAVE THE SAME BEARING SYSTEM A 1971 1972 BUICK 8.5 CORP REAR WILL HAVE A9 BEARINGS AND 2146 OR 712146 SEAL ON THE AXLE SHAFT 1967 68 69 axles will have the rw507cr and the seal in the end of the axle tube. 1967 1968 years that were w30 rears are 31 spline super duty axles 1969 1970 years only had 28 spline axles 1967-1970 all have 28 spline axles with 2.56 – 3.23 ratios only 3.42-5.00 ratio in 1967-68 had the 31 spline axles." Thanks for the input on the door issue! After the car is back on the ground I can start to tweak some stuff like that. I am by no means a body man! A pal back in the 70s told me that all body guys were alcoholics; I tend to know why now! Between the dust, confusion, and stress I see a cocktail or even some tokie time coming up! Bill in TR
The seal and bearing come out with the axle, don't they? Bill, make sure to check the end play with the axle installed. I had issues with seals that were too narrow resulting in excessive axle end play.
WILL DO!! Just came in for some java... That axle was way more tedious going in than coming out, that's for sure!. The retaining plate has an irregular bolt pattern and has to go on very squarely and you can only see one stud at a time through the axle flange. To get the nuts on was fun; had to load the socket and insert blind. Maybe if the brakes were off it would've been easier. Oh well... Spray painted the drums last week after the rust scaler needle gun clean up; only rated a 3. Today I brushed on a good heavy coat and am using the heat gun for the Earl Sheib look LOL... Also primed the inner fenders yesterday and sprayed them with semi gloss black today. Gonna do the engine side with the gloss black epoxy. Pulled all them damn staples outa the control arm mud flaps. Not sure if Im gonna make new ones or go naked. The old ones really looked bad... Bill in TR
I did some checking, it's probably ok. Right...the open bearing, it needs fluid to stay lubed, so the seal would have to be outside. My 69 has sealed bearings, and the seals are in the tubes. One of those big holes in the end of the axle should line up perfect with the flange nuts. There was also a flange shaped gasket some place, I forget if it was behind the backing plate or under the flange. It was like 12-13 years ago when I rebuilt my Type O. They are tricky because they were only made a few years. My best guess is it's a 70 rear. The splines help ID, and you may be able to count them from your pic. There is a new guy on here...Brian Trick is his ID, he's an Olds guy and knows these rears REALLY well. He probably hasn't even looked at this, cuz' your thread has a weird title. I got to battle global warming as Dave would say....I'll get back. BTW...you really should have used a new collar...... Absolutely do the fender seals NOW while they are out. They affect the air flow under the hood, and will keep your engine cleaner.
Doin the knee slappin' toe tappin' leather stretchin' Texas two step... Two steps forward and 1 step back... Larry is OFF the Xmas list LOL... Got that axle in and ready to plop the drum on and, Uh-Oh. WAYYYYY too much end play! Verified the seal number as 2146 off the box. It MICs up at .375". The old seal MICd up at .475". Hmmm Theres almost exactly .100" too much end play on the shaft. Pulled the axle out, tightened the backing plate and took the depth MIC and measured 1.975" deep. The measurement on the new seal and the bearing on the axle MICs up at just about 1.000" give or take holding 3 pieces, well oiled and trying to get a good depth MIC reading. Gotta go see the motor parts Monday. Ill talk to the machinist about the collar and see if the used one is stretched and needs replacing. This is probably gonna eat the bearing this time too... Lemme see... tomorrow Ill COUNT the splines on that axle. The pic looks like about 31 splines which is a super duty W-30 axle, then probably make new control arm rubbers. Im gonna drill new holes and use stainless staples. The OEM were spring steel, and I really feel sorry for the SOB that had to drive those babies for a living! I played heck removing the old ones. Saved 12 outa 16 but its gonna be tough to re-use them. I think the T-50 SS jobs will be fine... Pulled the last fender off the pile and its pretty rotten at the bottom as were the rest. Got the repair business down to a science now. Don't get mad... GET DONE. I think the novelty is wearing off. I pity anyone doing a frame off resto; theres no end to taking stuff apart and everything is rusty etc... The XYLEM and FLOM title came from SAP that goes up and then back down in a tree. Im the SAP and the Bad Lads' the TREE; Hopefully, Brian Trick will check in on this and gimme my ration of, ah, er, stuff. All opinions are graciously accepted ! Bill in TR
Measure the seals before you install them. For some reason, there are 2 different seals out there. You can look at the 712146 seal also. There are some threads on V8 about this. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?220547-End-play&highlight=712146+axle+seals http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?273253-rear-axle-leak&highlight=712146+axle+seal
I tried to explain this to the counter guy/part time machinist and he didn't understand the HARD outer shell on the seal seats the thrust (sort of) on the bearing. The new #2146 measured .375" and the removed leaker was .475" and there was literally .100" end play in the bearing. Im gonna get on the blower and shoot monzas a PM. Theres also the question of a gasket in there, but it looks like the retaining plate squeezed against the seal lip to seal it. Thanks Larry! I know you try to straighten a lot of guys out here and I for one appreciate it! Theres "mechanics" and then theres parts changers... I think of myself as a mechanic and can usually work things out, that is unless theres a "trade secret" involved. The 455 timing mark is still set at ZERO awaiting getting my fat ass underneath to mark the 40* advance on the damper... haven't made it under that far yet LOL. Bill in TR
