won't stay running starts shuts right down!

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by bluedave9, May 19, 2009.

  1. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    I once had similar symptoms on a Olds and discovered that my
    positive battery cable was zapping and then eventually welded
    itself on the exhaust manifold ...thank God it didn't burn the whole
    wiring system down :Dou:

    take a look ...you never know :)
     
  2. bluedave9

    bluedave9 GSCalifornia

    Ok put in the chrysler resistor and it fired up and ran. I then turn it off and it wouldnt start back to the same as before. I touched the resistor it was hot enough to burn my finger pretty bad :( :ball: . Put a tester on it had power on both side before and now just the side coming from the fuse box. Dave
     
  3. bluedave9

    bluedave9 GSCalifornia

    Did check the battery cable was fine there.
     
  4. online170

    online170 Well-Known Member

    Similar thing happened to me, except it was the ignition wire to the block. I pinched it between a bracket while painting and reassembling.

    The car ran fine for a bit, then it would just die and not start back up. As the wire heated up, it destroyed more insulation, so it was constantly grounded.

    Not sure if you have an HEI distributor or not, but the symptoms youre describing are also common with the ign. module in the distributor.
     
  5. bluedave9

    bluedave9 GSCalifornia

    I have a points ignition. No wires are pinched just started doing this after sitting a couple weeks i did'nt do any work to it in that time either. Dave
     
  6. jdk971

    jdk971 jim karnes

    could some one post a pic of the resistor wire or detail what it looks like and
    where it is in the harness esp in a 66 thanks jim
     
  7. Jim Blackwood

    Jim Blackwood Well-Known Member

    Is there a bulkhead plug where the harness goes through the firewall? If so I'd start there. The resistor wire may be either stranded or one solid conductor. It will be made out of nichrome wire. No copper. That makes it easy enough to identify. Nothing magical about it except the length and that can vary enough to make repairs. Splices and crimps will work fine. Most likely problem spots are at the connectors and terminations, any splices, anywhere the harness has been nicked or otherwise damaged, and in areas of high movement or vibration. The wire will go directly from the key switch to the coil, through a bulkhead connector if there is one, and may double back inside the harness to use up the required length to get the resistor value right. HTH

    Jim
     
  8. bluedave9

    bluedave9 GSCalifornia

    Found the problem!!!!! :beers2: The wire from the coil to the starter was burnt and grounding to the starter.
     
  9. bluedave9

    bluedave9 GSCalifornia

    Just got back from a drive and it runs great again. A big thank to tom miller for coming over to help me a couple times.
     
  10. bluedave9

    bluedave9 GSCalifornia

    And thanks to all who lent me there knowledge on this site!! :beer
     
  11. exfarmer

    exfarmer Well-Known Member

    That resistor gets very hot, thats why you install it under the hood. Make sure that you still leave the wire from the solenoid connected to the coil as this provides full voltage for stating.
     
  12. 1967GS340

    1967GS340 Well-Known Member

    Glad to see you got it figured out and fixed. Just in time for some weekend fun too.
     
  13. bluedave9

    bluedave9 GSCalifornia

    I love when a car runs smooth!!! :cool:
     

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