Ok I have a 1969 buick gs350 california all stock with 88,000 miles. Up until a week ago it ran fine. Last weekend i went out to start it and it fired up and shut right off. It did this maybe 15 times then stayed running. I drove it and it stalled 4 times in 10 miles or less. It just cut out no stumbling like it was starving for gas or air so i think its electrical. Any suggestions on where to start? Thanks dave Problem solved Coil wire to the starter had a burn hole in it and it was grounding to the starter!! took it for a good drive today ran great sounded great and no problems!!
Sounds like it mighty be the coil? Or even possibly a lose coil + or - wire, Swap out the coil. And give it a try.
Dave, give me your phone number again, or give me a call 279-7476. I'll try to give you a hand with it Wednesday,or Thursday. Tom
When my resistor wire to the coil failed I had a simular issue. Make sure you have around 9.8 Volts DC on the + side of the coil to the - side of the battery. If it's low, less than 9 volts DC the car will just cut out. You could then try to find another length of the resistor wire or use a regular wire with a balist resistor under the dash. Good Luck:TU: Matt
I had a failed resistor wire act just like that, finally it quit alltogether stranding me. If you use a Chrysler style resistor to replace the resistor wire I'd mount it under the hood as it can get quite hot.
same exact thing was happening to me when my coil was old and overheating. replaced it and havent had a problem since.
I was over at Dave's earlier today. We had a test light on the positive side of the coil while it was running, the light was on, the light went out,and the car died. Turned the key on and off several times, and it didn't show any juice to the coil until the 10th try or so, then it would start and run again. I figured it was ignition switch related, so Dave replaced it after I went home,but I see that wasn't it. My next guess would be something to do with the resistor wire,or maybe a break in the wire somewhere. The times when the test light shows no power to the coil, it will start when you crank it over because of the resistor bypass, but as soon as you let go of the key to the run position, it immediately dies.
Pretty standard ceramic resistor. Any autoparts store with an employee with and IQ over 10 should be able to handle it.