Wiring Harness Routing

I am about to install an original wiring harness in a 1972 GS. I have an assembly manual but I do not feel that it is "clearly" showing the routing of the harness from the fuse box and WHERE IT GOES OVER THE STEERING COLUMN. So my question is, does it go up over the steering column bracket or does it go directly over the column and under the bracket? Which route I take will affect the routing of the wiring portions that go to the steering column, and the gauges so I don't want to put it in wrong and then take it out.

:birthday: AMERICA!

Thanks

 

Main harness goes to the back of the instrument cluster and held in place with the J-hooks that mount to the back of the cluster....once it goes past the speedo...the column connections drop to the column....rest of harness goes to the AC controller and then goes out to the firewall opening....remaining portion goes to the radio and across to the pass side for the glove box light and door jamb switch.

 

You have to really study those manuals. They make sense when you start installing it.

 

There are some pop in plastic clips that can only go in one area as well.

 

Thanks for the comments guys. My reason for asking about this routing is so that I can put some of the hard to get at items in place before I add the dash gauge bezel, radio and bezel, heat/AC vents etc. I don't want to pull this harness through and then need to take it out and route it differently. I would like to do this one time. Anyway I have posted 2 photos: (1) the front of the steering column bracket and supports (Does the harness go through this area?) or (2) the area farther back behind the vertical braces where there are various spaces where the main harness could route. If it goes here, does it go over the top of the bracket OR between the upper bracket and the top of the column?

Thanks

 

Main harness goes infront of the those 2 round support rods for the column.
I will take pics tomorrow of my car...I am about to put the instrument cluster in place. Will be easy to see what to do.

As for the ac duct...make absolutely sure you install the driver's side duct on the vent and then install the cluster in the metal dash...once the cluster is in ...there is no way to connect the duct to the vent.

 

Here are wiring harness routing pics....easy to see once it is installed how it is supposed to go....last pic shows wiring running above the radio to the key/speed-alert buzzer and then over to the pass door jamb switch.

 

George, you could do it if you have Spaghetti arms! I probably spelled tha wrong.

 

George, also curious. Do you install wire harness first and then put in instrument cluster and try to plug in connections from behind? I tried opposite approach on friends 442 the other day by attaching everything to the dash bezel first then feeding wires through dash and then screwing in fuse box. I would guess this is how the factory installed them. It makes it real easy to get all the connections and grounds on perfect with the bezel and wires on a bench. Toughest part is fitting the fuse box through dash. Good pictures by the way.

 

George, Perfect. Great photos. Thanks It is tough doing this for the first time when I did not take it apart in the first place. Looks like you have the steering column out. That should give a lot more room to install the harness to the gauges?

I have 2 dash bezels. One is market 1970 and has all the threaded studs in place and is the best of the 2. The year on the other is not marked. It came with the 1972 car but was not installed. Is there any reason not to use the 70 on the 72?

I wanted to complete the 72 bezel because the threaded studs for the gauges have been removed. I went to the hardware store and found some 1" and 1/25" long studs with a fine thread on the one end an a thread like a lag bolt on the other end. They were the smallest I could find. I think they are (32 x 5) if I remember correctly. Should these be threaded in or are they supposed to be glued? I don't want to crack the mounting bosses. What do you think?

Is there any kind of optional gauge to replace the idiot lights with actual gauges? Is there a tachometer that can replace the clock?

Thanks

 

I always run the wiring harness first....much much easier to run the wires.

There is enough slack in the wiring so you can get the cluster close to the metal dash and make your connections....only takes me about 5 mins to make all the connections to the cluster. Here is a tip, install the AC controller first and make the cable connection, wiring and vacuum connections first.

Then, connect the ac controller to the cluster.

As for the gages....yes, you can buy a new tach and I "think" the gage pack is being reproduced. If you install the gage pack, you will need new oil and water temp senders.

Use the 70 cluster. If you have a woodgrain cluster, now is the time to replace the woodgrain decals to be nice.

 

George,

OK I will give that install procedure a shot. I am going to see if I can locate the tach and gage pack unless you know where they are available.

Is there any advice regarding mounting the gage bezel to the metal dash in regard to noise, squeeking etc? Any padding etc?

Does the top dash pad go on last?

How would I know if the dash had wood grain. I did receive a bezel with the car that had woodgrain but I do not know if it was the original bezel. They look real nice now with just black and chrome. Who has the best woodgrain kit?

Thanks
Albert

 

www.thepartsplaceinc.com carries the gage pack and tach.

No special mounting instructions...just take your time and don't force it...if there is resistance during installation....find the problem, then install the cluster.

Dash pad goes on last.

I would install the woodgrain...looks great.

Contact Greg Setter here.....I also have his contact info and product on our site under Repro Parts

 

Is there a dedicated ground for the odometer gauge? I am reinstalling my instrument panel and this gauge will notvlight up. The rally gauge is fine. Did I miss something? I thought the two gauges were grounded together. Could it be something else.

 

Yes, there is a metal strap that connects the two mountings studs together that makes the speedo ground through the gas gage.....maybe you are missing it?

See pic for the ground strap....or you can make one from some wire.

 

That strap is there. It is behind the bottom nut that holds the screw to the instrument panel, should the strap be on the top side under the nut that holds the Gage to the screw? Thanks

 

Yes, you need metal to metal contact....sounds like yours is contacting plastic.

 

I took the panel out and moved the strap so that it is metal to metal. I still do not have lights on odometer. Any further thoughts.... Thanks

 

Check to make sure you are getting power to the speedo...light gray wire is for the lights.

 

Novice question - how do I test it?