The LM 2 has the RPM adapter integrated into the unit. It also has input for the other sensors you might want to monitor. It also has 2 analog outputs that you can program for things like nitrous activation and such. Its a really great product in my opinion. Its also an OBD2 scan tool.
If I have this right.... -Lowest cost option would be a LC-1 with gauge for $180. For data logging, this needs to be connected to a laptop inside the car (correct?) - To add a RPM recorder to it requires a SSI-4 Sensor interface for $129. - To add RPM, Temperature, MAP/Boost, and an accelerometer requires a LMA-3 Auxillary box for $250. (great for a turbo car!) OR - LM-2 is the hand-held A/F monitor for $350. - Add $20 for a SD card to log and store the data. - Recording RPM requires a in/out analog cable for $25. - If you want, dd a dash-mounted gauge to it for $99. - To record temperature or vacuum/boost levels requires additional sending units. However, I can't find a cost for the senders. As I see it, the advantage to the higher cost $350 LM-2 is the data logging without a laptop. Please correct me if I'm wrong!
I opted for the kit...... The LM-2 Kit (Single Wideband O2) includes the LM-2 meter, Bosch wide-band oxygen sensor, 8 ft sensor cable, cigarette-lighter power adapter, analog in/out cable, ODB-II/CAN interface cable, SD memory card, USB cable for PC connection, weld-in bung and plug, LogWorks software CD, and quick-start guide. Carrying Case also included! P/N: 3806, MSRP $479 I used a junk yard map sensor and connector. I bought a TPS kit http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16284 from Innovate. If you need an accelerometer you could use the LMA3 auxbox. I didnt see an advantage to the AF guage, I can read the value off the LM2 and wouldn't be scanning that info while going down the track anyway. I dont like the idea of running with my laptop on, open, and in the car.
Sorry to bring back the thread, but how do you guys have your LC1s wired up. are any of the black,green,yellow wires used. also i will be using my laptop and not a gauge so i bought one of those serial to usb adapters, i just hooked up the white and blue as negative soldered together connected to battery, red 12 volt cable connected to battery when ignition switch is on. now every time i try to connect to the logworks3 i get a not able to read real time****** so on so on, also asks me to download lm1 log.. can u guys help out with the wiring connection.
I got the LM-2 kit as well. Recording RPM using the analog in/out cable directly is unlikely to work though - didn't work for me at least ('73 455 with original dist). whamo: what kind of RPM converter do you use to get RPM logged on LM-2? LM-2 ODB scan tool doesn't always work either. But I like the tool, there's a forum for the Innovate products as well, which can be helpful when things don't work out. It would also be interesting to see what AFR you find to be best. Being in the middle of no-where, where parts are hard (or impossible) to come by, I tried to drill my primary jets out to 1.95mm (0.07677") using original rods I'm averaging 13.1-13.2 in light cruise. I found DR .0570 tip secondary rods vs the stock CT .0774 tip and get 11.2-11.5 on WOT. It seems to work quite well for my 455.
I hooked the rpm wire from the analog cable to the tach output from my mallory hyfire ignition box just like it shows in the instruction manual. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support.php Worked perfectly from the start, as have all of the other sensors I have hooked up. I haven't tried to use the scanner function yet.
As far as ideal AF ratios, I can't speak to that yet..... every engine is different and I havnt had much time to dial in for the best et. A combination of a chassis dyno and the innovate would probably be the best route.
Thanks for the tip on the junkyard sensors! I have a LM-2 on the way.:grin: It has connectivity for 4 additional inputs, I'll need the sensors to use them. I like the idea of the accelerometer since it can calculate HP. It would be great to know how much a hp gain I am getting with a carb tune, carb swap, timing change, etc. Kinda expensive, but would be fun. I'll be doing street tuning with mine. A dash-mounted display would be nice. Lots of options out there for those.
Still have not purchased mine yet, I should have, it would have saved my engine ou:. Are yall fouling out your O2 sensors using leaded racing fuel? I heard that the sensors are pretty expensive, and by running racing fuel it will cause it to not work.
Maybe not. Innovate has some neat features but not very accurate. AEM makes a good one and the Accel has a lean alarm. Now that would have saved your engine! Below is a test done by an independent lab, the NTK is lab grade, the best you can get. The DFI is Accels', the LM1 is Innovates. Still want to use it?
The Innovate LM-1 is an obsolete model. It's been replaced by the LM-2. There is also a LC-1 model. I'm happy with my LM-2, but it's the only one I've ever used.
They all use the same sensor. So it's the controller. That BS Innovate says to calibrate the unit in free air? Sorry that ain't accurate. The better ones are used as a set, i.e. the sensor on the Accel has resistor in it to match the calibration of the controller, they work together. Plus it samples 500 times a second. A bigger issue is the delay of the unit. Not so much on a carbureted car but when you use one with EFI you're already into the next cell on your fuel map by the time it gives you a reading from the one before. Makes tuning a bitch. Another thing, don't use ANY Bosch sensor with anything over 700hp or so. They can't take the heat and pressure. It will skew the reading as much as 21%. That's right from their memo.
What wideband would you recommend then? The Accel? And based on the 700hp thing. It might not work for the racecar, when I am done with it. ou: I guess I will just be getting one for the GN.
