Where did you mount your line lock?

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by rh455, May 1, 2005.

  1. rh455

    rh455 Well-Known Member

    I'm trying to find a good spot to mount the line lock. I don't care for it on the fender apron. I'm looking for alternatives. Where's yours?
     
  2. GS Kubisch

    GS Kubisch THE "CUT-UP" BUICK

    Reynold,
    Don't do anything until I get you pics....I think you'll like this idea.

    Oh,And Happy Birthday too!
     
  3. mechacode

    mechacode Well-Known Member

    How does a line-loc work? Does it lock the tranny or the front wheel brakes? If the brakes, do you press the brakes in, flip the switch and let off the brakes and it keeps the front brakes locked?
     
  4. rh455

    rh455 Well-Known Member

    Exactly.


    Thanks, Gary. I can only bet that if it's on your car it must be trick! :Brow:
     
  5. alan

    alan High-tech Dinosaur

    I probably shouldn't even admit this, but mine is hanging from the brake lines! :error:

    What can I say, it works. :Do No:

    I'll check back in for a better idea!
     
  6. Dana/Beth Andrews

    Dana/Beth Andrews Huc accedit zambonis!

    Gary, we need a LL on the wagon, howz about posting your "trick" set up so we can see it........ :Brow:

    please, please pretty please :grin:

    Beth :grin:
     
  7. TomGS72

    TomGS72 Silver Level contributor

    Gary,

    Can I please see the pics. I was going to post the same question.

    Thanks!

    Tom Jenkins
     
  8. GS Kubisch

    GS Kubisch THE "CUT-UP" BUICK

    OK...Lets see if I can explain this until my digital camera service gets here.

    There are 4 studs in the firewall,With manual brakes I use only th top 2 for mounting the master cylinder.

    I made a "U"-shaped bracket that bolts onto the lower 2 studs.

    This could get funny,But here is a sketch.......

    Just to help explain,This will all mount just below the master.
    I'll still get pictures,It's worth doing for a very clean,functional installation.
     

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  9. rh455

    rh455 Well-Known Member

    Excellent idea for manual brakes, a no go on power brakes. The booster gets in the way. It's definately got the wheels turning though. Maybe if I put a piece of 2" flat bar stock mounted vertically on the left side bolts and let it hang under the booster. Time for a trip out to the car. Gary post pics if you get a chance. Sounds like I'm heading in the right direction.
     
  10. GS Kubisch

    GS Kubisch THE "CUT-UP" BUICK

    POWER!................Get that dead-weight outta there.
     
  11. rh455

    rh455 Well-Known Member

    Is it harder to stop with no booster and disc brakes? My bud's Hurst Olds is a beotch to stop w/o a booster. Do I just unbolt the booster and bolt the m/c on the upper bolts on the firewall?
     
  12. rh455

    rh455 Well-Known Member

    Should I look for a master cyl for manual disc (if there is a such thing) or drum brakes? I was told that a manual master cyl is easier to push than a power cyl w/o the booster. What are my options? My car will be some street/ some strip.
     
  13. Chris Cornett

    Chris Cornett Well-Known Member

    The rod on the brake pedal has a different mounting point for better leverage. And I am not positive but I think the master cylinder is the same. The difference is between disk and drum I think. You will need the shorter rod for a manual setup. MP brakes sells them.
     
  14. rh455

    rh455 Well-Known Member

    If I remove the booster and use the master cyl (power disc) that I have already, will I need to get the shorter rod? MP, do they have a website?
     
  15. Chris Cornett

    Chris Cornett Well-Known Member

    yes the rod you have is longer as it needs to thru the booster. Don't forget about changing the attachment point on the pedal as well. www.mpbrakes.com is the siteI know thats were the stuff I have came from as it is new in the box. My race car originaly had power brakes.
     
  16. rh455

    rh455 Well-Known Member

    If I go buy a reman manual unit will I still need to change the rod? Did GM make a manual m/c for disc brakes?
     
  17. Chris Cornett

    Chris Cornett Well-Known Member

    The master cylinder does not come with a rod. As far as the manual disc, i don't know if they were available or not. Both my GS's are drum.
     
  18. carcrazy455

    carcrazy455 Well-Known Member

    The Bendix part number I have for a manual disc brake setup (from 72 Cutlass) is R11479. I use this part on my racecar with drilled front rotors (available from Summit) and it stops fine from just under 140mph.

    You will need to change the rod.

    Mike
    carcrazy455@yahoo.com
     
  19. Sportwagon400

    Sportwagon400 Well-Known Member

    The idea looks great Except the line lock has to be the last item before the brakes ( after the combination/ prortioning vavle ) so IF you run the line lock to your combination valve you may not pass tech!! if you plan to run at the track. The rules are clear and look it up in either the NHRA or IHRA rule book is a pain to get it all pretty and then get sent home in tech ( it has happen to more than a few people i know for this exact thing )

    Ken

    sorry to be a downer but I have been sent home for less
     
  20. rh455

    rh455 Well-Known Member

    Thanks guys. Sorry for all the questions but this is something I can't screw up. There's 3 yrs of resto resting on one push of the pedal so it's gotta be right. I'll stop at Advance Auto tomorrow and look at a couple of m/c's from the Cutlass and GM truck. I'm trying to avoid reman as best as possible. I did see a new unit for '75 C-10 with manual brakes and comes with 2 rods. It has the deep socket but I'm 90% sure it's for manual disc.

    http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=BEN&mfrpartnumber=11581&parttype=230&ptset=A
     

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