When to use synthetic oil?

oh man you guys are killin me i use mobil 1 and zddp additive hope that is still good enough.uzzled:

 

Depending on the additive, you most likely have the best of both worlds...probably nothing to worry about!

Devon

 

So royal purple is not a good choice? It has zinc in it.

 

brad penn is suppose to be really good stuff. all different weights and it is "semi synthetic". i have joe gibbs hot rod conventional oil since it it is available locally. i did run valvoline vr1 in my roller cammed bbc and that stuff seems fine too, even though it's roller.

 

I suggest getting the material safety data sheet for Royal Purple and checking the zinc/phosphorus levels for the grade you're running...that's the quickest way to find out.

I'm no authority, I'm just getting caught up on all of this, myself. I was relieved to learn the zinc level for the oil I've been using was pretty close to the minimum, but even so there's all kind of other factors. Mobil 1 is high-detergent oil, so adding ZDDP will counter some of the action that the detergent brings with it. It's all a matter of balance.

I may not use ZDDP in my 1980 Chevy G20, since that's got a cat converter and all the other emissions mess, but my Riviera has nothing but the factory dual-exhaust down there...no cat. I may top off the oil with a touch of ZDDP just to get the zinc levels a little more favorable, but not so much as to sap the effects of the detergents.

 

Can not remember the form I was reading but it said royal purple hps oil 10w30 has 1700ppm of zinc.

 

Im using Mobil 1 with zinc additive too.

Thanks

 

I have swithed all my cars over to AMSoil. For $25 a year i can buy at wholesale prices which easily pays for itself. And for a small fee they will test a sample to determine how well its holding up and when a change is needed. I did some research before choosing and they had the highest levels of zinc at the time. Just made sense to me to spend a little more for extra protection. You should talk to a dealer next time you see a dealer at a show. Thats my $0.02 anyway

 

Is your amsoil synthetic?

 

Anyone else use this stuff? I added it during my last oil change:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrt.aspx?zo=0

 

I am using the ZRod synthetic oil. Might be overkill with my stock 350 but im sold on it. Planning to use it after their break in oil after i finish the 470.

 

Anyone know of any issues with synthetic oil leakage past the old style cork gaskets, or the old style rope seals on the crank? I recall this being an issue for some. I know that this can be an issue with conventional oil too, but some have complained that synthetic oil made a bad situation worse.

Tommy

 

I'm just completing a total rebuild on my 455 and plan on using Lucas Oil Hot Rod & Classic Car Oil. Here is their ad: "Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Car Motor Oil SAE 10W-40 is manufactured with the highest quality paraffinic base oils and is fortified with a unique additive package containing high levels of zinc, molybdenum and phosphorus, which provides a tougher, thicker additive film for maximum protection even under the most severe conditions. It lowers oil temperatures, extends oil life and minimizes metal fatigue. It improves the film strength between the cylinder wall and piston rings and slows oil burning and improves pressure in worn engines. It has good cold temperature properties and stands up to high operating temperatures. It is compatible with methanol and all racing fuels, as well as with synthetic and non-synthetic oils.

Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Car Motor Oil SAE 10W-40 is for muscle, showroom, classic and trophy cars without catalytic converters. It can be used in racing applications. Not recommended for passenger car use."

 

Huh? Interesting corporate claim . . . (Re: use synthetic oil?)

Dear Wazzy3 and V-8 Buick oil connoisseurs,

Hmm. . . . that's just too weird not to ask:

I wonder what they mean by not recommended for passenger car use? Indeed their website doesn't explain any further. It is reasonably obvious that this oil isn't intended for more modern cars (i.e post 1976) but most of us would insist passenger cars where manufactured before 1976!! :grin:

Is this oil not as well suited to daily-driving? (perhaps the stress of traffic-jam crawling?) I just went reviewed this thread, it seemed to be focused on the daily-driver (perhaps "light" racing) crowd. For this sort of car owner, Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Car Motor Oil may or may not be the best choice - depending on what they mean!!


Cheers, Edouard :beer

 

Sooooo....

Are some of you suggesting that we use synthetic oil even if our engines are not new? I've thought about this a few times. My 455 is bored .30 over and only has some slight things like TA pistons, push and connecting rods. It was rebuilt less than 500 miles and I haven't changed the oil at all but I've thought about it. It's simple conventional.

Do any of you use a specific ZDDP product as well?
What about oil filters, any opinions on those? I'm just running a simple generic filter for now with conventional oil...

 

just don't run a fram, no filter at all would be better.

 

I used Brad Penn 20W50 or Kendall High Performance 20W50 and I got a 10 quarts can of Lucas 20W50 mineral racing Oil.
The Kendal oil is the cheapest downhere 7 euro's a quart, Brad Penn is 10 euro a quart and the Lucas 15 euro a quart!
The best way is to order a big drum with some friends thats alot cheaper then by the bottle.

And in my old engine I sometimes used Valvoline 10W60 racing oil synthetic.

 

1300 ppm is ok except for cam break-in or once broken-in, high spring pressures. Under either of those conditions, the number is 1800+ ppm or more...

 

I really like the new "Hot Rod" oils that are offered by several different Mfgs. They have a great balance of zinc protection and storage additives that prevent corrosion while it sits...which they do a lot compared to a daily driver.

In no particular order, I like Champion, Gibbs, Royal Purple, Edelbrock, and Comp. they come in a variety of weights, and range from Dino to full synthetics and blends in between.

Pick an oil that you like, can get locally, and is at a price you are comfortable with. Then, just stick with it and change it as often as you deem neccissary, or at least once a year. The corrosion inhibitor pkg. in oils is constantly degrading as it works.

Most hot rod oils are priced the same as regular oil plus zinc additive, but there are more benifets from the oil that was designed for the job.

I personally use Comp break-in oil, and Gibbs and Champion for regular use. They are all available locally and I don't have to pay shipping.

 

I thought ZDDP was for Phosphorus and then Zinc was a totally different thing. (?) I think all of todays oil, synthetic or not has lower amounts of those additives, unless you go with a "specialty product". Anyway..I was slow to come around to synthetics, but I have since become a true believer. I switched to synthetic years ago in my newer cars and there is an offset in cost compared to the frequency of oil changes. So, along came my 40 year old Buick engine. I decided to try it and I am impressed so far. After 2,000 miles on Mobil1 (10w30, K&N filter) it sure looks, feels and smells new. Very little, if any, carbon "color" yet and I am pleased with that. It seems healthy rings mean less carbon or is that my imagination? My main concern with the Buick is the drop in oil pressure at idle when warm. 12-15 pounds of pressure just makes me nervous. I assume that is why they have such a "loose" bearing tolerence, but still isnt in my comfort zone. I think I was happier when I didn't have an oil pressure gauge and didn't see this all the time. I have been thinking I will sneak in a quart of the 15w50 with the high ZDDP and Zinc on a filter change around 3k, but haven't decided yet.