I had a gal pal with a Toyota with alloy wheels and after about 4 hours finally got the wheel to break free from the hub bore. Swiped it clean with a round file and did put a film of NS on it along with the lugs. Juris prudence. A little dab'll do ya! ws
Ugh. That's very dangerous! Please try to get her car back and clean all of the lubricant from the hubs. -Bob C.
I have had rims the were stuck on the rear hub as well. They were certainly "fun" to get off the car. After the struggle and removal, I sanded both surfaces until clean. Then I put a very light coat of grease on just the center hub. As for the studs, I have sprayed them with a lubricant if they were very rusted. After wheel removal, I used a little Tap Magic and a die, with the correct thread size/pitch, to clean up the threads. Then I sprayed carb or brake clean to clean up any mess.
Hey Bob... as you live in the salt belt as well, whats YOUR recommendation? Theres definitely a reaction between the steel (especially cast iron) and the alloy in the wheels. That stuff is the Cheapest A$$ cast iron and Cheapest A$$ cast alloy ((cant call it aluminum even)), possible). The gal pal deal was 20 years ago and she drove that car at least 100K without incident. I'm not talking GOBS of dope, but a film to retard corrosion interference. I spent 4 hours on that wheel and I could imagine a girl on a dark rainy road falling prey to some "good samaritan", or worse, a $100 tow to get the flat fixed not including shop time to get the wheel off. Personally the numbskulls that came up with the alloy wheel thing should've produce a plastic wafer to insulate the two, but that would be too Dodge-ish. Just like the OMNI's that picked up the chassis ground through the front right wheel bearing. Engineering at its' best! I spent too many years in the power generation industry to not understand the importance of thread lubrication... Now what about 4 male dogs making wee-wee on the wheels along with non ceramic brake pads... ws
If you look on ngk site the fr5 and the bp5es has a few other differances, the fr5 is a resistor plug, has 5/8 hex, and the v groove strap. Both or protected tip with the same reach, same core of copper and same core diameter. The BP plug uses the larger 13/16 hex and a flat strap electrode.
Yes, I was comparing the FR-5 to the UR-5, a plug I used when running iron heads. They are the same plug except for the seat.
No on the anti-seize on spark plugs!! There are the problems mentioned (heat range, over torquing) but there is also potential for misfires due to grounding issues as well as shorting out issues if copious amounts are used and it wicks down. An absolute no-no! The 3-valve Triton wasn't an issue of threads seizing in the cylinder head - it was a shitty-designed spark plug (2-piece) where the extended protrusion allowed carbon build and was often left behind when you tried to remove the spark plug. Ford's TSB regarding this matter is as laughable as the spark plug design. It's not a thread issue at all, however. As far as anti-seize on wheel studs, that's a no-no too. But using something on the face of the rotor or even between the rotor and hub is perfectly acceptable despite what some book might say. We use a 2-part process for that - first a spray of Fluid Film and then we brush on anti-seize. "Spray and paint" as the guys in my shop call it. You don't go wild with it, and you want to keep it off the wheel studs. Unsafe? That laughable. We have tens of thousand of vehicles out there with this treatment, and the guys love it because there's a lot less work involved the next time the wheel has to come off.
I can see not putting it on the hub/wheel face, but don't see any issue on the hub bore on a hub centric wheel, especially aluminum on a steel hub. What's your reasoning?
Some people don't know the difference between a Van Gogh and a Salvador Dahli. A smidge is enough; GIGANTIC sloppy brush strokes are too much. Whats next? No dielectric grease?? ws
Even a small amount will cause the heat trans issue. You load it up most will get wiped as it threads in. No amount is acceptable in my opinion, I have seen misfires from it and most plugs are coated for this reason. I have not seen any plugs that do not have some type of coating, even the Black on AC delco. From AC Delco: Quote: Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal. From Autolite: Quote: We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Antiseize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time. You may want to consider the periodic inspection of the plugs to reduce the likelihood of plug seizure during extended plug service intervals. From NGK: Quote The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that do not offer a special metal shell plating. Spark plugs that have a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicate that the spark plug is manufactured with special metal shell plating. http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf From Champion: Quote: Champion recommends that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory.
I just know for a fact that you guys get a torque wrench in there to tighten the plugs. ME? Ive got better things to do after 5 years rather than struggle pulling stuff apart that I put in. Just to really PISS OFF the judges, I use never seize on door hinge bolts (after wire wheeling of course) and wheel studs and even LOCKTITE on loose tilt wheel steering column stuff... I guess Ill hafta do my penance at the new LIBRARY in town. Hahaha... ws
Hey Bill- I totally hear you, sometimes they can be a hassle. I did some tires on an F-350 plow truck with dualies & a salter in the bed- unbelievably challenging to get off. Had to go get a 10-pound sledgehammer on a 3' handle to get those off. Not to mention, lying on my back under the truck in the rain. Yucky, but it worked. In cases like yours, I have a drill with a wire wheel and I clean off all of the mating surfaces. If you have a tough situation (some aluminum/steel combinations are worse than others), but you do that every few years or so, then you'll be able to remove the wheel on the side of the highway 99% of the time. No problem with that- the hub bore does not drive the wheel. Apologies if I misunderstood or miscommunicated. -Bob C.
I work in a Volkswagen / SEAT / Mistubishi / Suzuki Dealership. None of those use any kind of anti seize or lubricant on the spark plugs. The jap cars mostly use NGK and the Germans to a good amount Bosch plugs. Any anti seize will collect dirt and the risk of damaging the thread is higher. Plus...if you have a plug without a sealing ring but with a cone to seal...any amount of lubricant or anti seize that goes on the cone throws off your tightening torque. You are overtightening the plug then. Same goes for the wheel nuts or bolts.
I guess Ill hafta change my methods... I used to "DUNK" the plug in a can of neversieze, and then roll it around on the gravel driveway before putting them in. I thought that "grinding feeling" would give the plug a better ground and of course any sandblasting I did out there lends itself to FE in the mix for conductivity, both thermal AND electric. That brings us to Teflon tape on the plugs too; then theres Teflon tape on compression and flare fittings. Kripes, I must be from the Bizzarro world! ws https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bizarro_World
I've done what you describe, then I started taking a long 6x6 so I could at least hit from the other side of the truck & I've even resorted to a porta-power between the frame & the wheel. The make a big puller for the big rigs. The easiest way I've found (nearly effortless) it to back the nuts off a couple turns and drive it around the lot - nail the accelerator &/or brakes &/or a couple sharp turns. Works every time.
