There was some discussion on this topic here in the past. I thought I would link a manufacturer's tech bulletin on this topic. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/NGK_TB-0630111antisieze.pdf
Yes, this has been mentioned several times here on V8. I have always used the NGK FR-5 in my aluminum heads, and never used anti seize at all. I screw them in finger tight, then another 3/4 of a turn and that's it. Change them once a year with engine cold, never a problem. Unfortunately, some have the idea that if a little is good, more is better. I've seen people slobber on the anti seize to the point that it surely gets into the combustion chamber. It also can interfere with heat conduction from the plug tip to the surrounding head, causing the plug to overheat. A little dab on the threads is all that's needed when it's called for.
Having worked in a Honda Dealership for many years, where NGK plugs are installed from the factory, I can say that the only time we had issues is when someone had installed Autolite plugs.. they have no plating. NGK, Denso, Champion, AC ect never seemed to be much trouble. AHM actually had the service bulletin that said that anti-seize is more likely to cause the issues due to heat transfer reduction, never seen the over torquing angle, but that does make sense. JW
My last experience with Autolite plugs was with a Ford Industrial engine. They were factory installed new. I got one out and the next one snapped off level with the surface of the head. So I soaked the next ones with PB blaster or the equivalent for several days. Nevertheless, the remaining ones also snapped off level with the surface head. I looked around the internet and learned this is a very common occurrence when using Autolite plugs.
I think that part of that TSB is fake. A) NGK does not have un coated spark plug, and B) never use anti seize on any spark plug because it changes the heat range. Usually if a plug is stuck its because has been in there for ever, the ford PU's with 5.4l are a pain to change so people leave then in too long.
After acquiring a ste of Stage 2 SE heads,several suggested NGK plugs to use in them. How would I determine which would be a good starting point for heat range? I am kinda familiar with the AC plug ranges but not so much in the aluminum head and NGK type plug.. Educate me please.
The TA Catalog has the BP_ES plugs for the Aluminum heads. The numbers range from 4 to 9 and higher numbers are colder plugs, so a BP4ES is the hottest, and BP9ES is the coldest. You can also use the FR-5 which is a projected nose plug. Basically a UR-5 plug with a flat seat and gasket. With my iron heads, I used the UR-5. With my aluminum heads, the FR-5, I've never used anything else. I believe JW uses the FR-5 in a lot of the motors that come out of TSP. It's a good all around plug. The 5 heat range is comparable to an R43TS. Projected nose plugs position the gap further into the combustion chamber and in theory have a wider heat range.
I hadn't heard this before and it doesn't sound intuitive to me... Could you explain? Thanks! -Bob C.
Anti seize will not transfer the heat into the plug properly, it was and has caused many engine misses.
NGK recommends NOT using anti seize on their plugs. The reason is that their plugs have plating on the threads. Anti seize can also act as a lubricant leading to over torquing of the plugs and possible thread damage. Here is the bulletin.
https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs On plugs that do not have plating on the threads, a little dab is OK. Problem is, people think a little is good, more is better. So they slobber it on. That can definitely cause problems with heat transfer from the plug to the cylinder head. This is too much.
Not to hi-jack the thread but I was told that anti-seize is also a problem with overtightening wheel lug nuts.... similar issue? Thoughts? Maybe this is just a concern with certain alloy wheels as I was discussing with a mechanic on that type of vehicle.
Yes, I would think so. If you torque the lug nuts, anti seize would act as a lubricant. You would need to reduce the torque to avoid over tightening and possible wheel damage.
My bro in law has a caravan with a V6 in it. He brought it over one day cause it was making a weird noise. One of the plugs in a very inaccessible area on the back of the engine had rusted to the point where the compression popped the porcelain outwith the metal nut part still attached.
Like anti seize, a little common sense goes a long, long way. The lubricating properties on coated vs, non coated parts is 2:1. A dry 100Ft pound torque/stretch on a bolt is actually 200lbs on a lubed thread. Thats just the SAE's and the NRC's opinion. ws
Yes - NEVER put anti-seize on wheel lugs. They are meant to be installed and torqued dry. Anti-seize will only attract dirt particles onto the threads, causing them to strip & jam etc. And please never ever ever put any kind of lubricant between the wheels and the hubs. EVER. -Bob C.
