I just rebuilt my sbb 350 and I've been trying to start the motor. brought the motor up to tdc and it on zero mark but it poped throught the carb so theni dropped it 180* out but it want to run but it won't start. I have good spark and plenty of gas from the carb but it won't start.so I've been reading some people say install distributor at 12btdc so what is the rite way. Also it a hei distributor.where does the rotor button point guys please help
The distributor gear is curved so it will retard some .at tdc you want it to point at number 1 plug wire tower. Once it is in turn counterclockwise about an 1/8 turn. Should start even at zero thou. If it was not originally an he I car you might want to find a 12 volt ignition source as the ignition source won't be 12 volt more like 8 due to resistor wire.also check for other vacuum leaks.that can cause it not to start. ---------- Post added at 09:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:04 PM ---------- Also check to see what tdc you are at.pull left valve cover and turn to zero at timing mark and check for both #1 cyl valves to be closed.
Plenty of threads on here about it. But I'll give you the reader digest condensed version- Pull the #1 plug out and put your thumb over the hole while your buddy bumps the engine with the starter. Just tapping the key untill you feel compression. Your at TDC. The timing mark should be pretty close to the timing tab. You may have to rotate the engine over a little with a breaker bar to get the mark ON the tab. The #1 plug is the drivers front plug, but you knew that right? Follow that ignition wire to the distributor cap and make a note of which tower its connected to. Take the distributor cap off and look where the rotor is pointing to. it should be poiting to the tower on the cap the #1 wire is connected to. If it is, the timing is in the ball park and the car should start. Do you have points? are they set correctly? Gap them to .016. Again, close enough to get the car to run. Once the car is running, adjust dwell first then adjust timing to spec. And before anyone else says it, get a factory service manual!
Make sure when your finding tdc that its on the compression stroke #1 cyl. everything lines up to "0" to start, you can always adjust timing when eng starts running(there's many ways to do it wrong trust me! once you understand you'll never make this mistake again!) make sure vacuum advance is positioned correctly and line up rotor position to #1 on your cap (dist turns clockwise) fire order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. you will have to line up your oil pump shaft with a large screwdriver, try this hope it helps.
Ok guy where does the rotor point toward the number 1 or is it pointed at at number 2 cylinder. I've look under the cap and there's number 1 on the tower. Will this car not start cause of pcv unpluged
#1 piston at top dead center (verified by your thumb), ignition rotor pointed to #1 ignition wire on cap. If the rotor is pointing to #2 instead of #1, the timing is retarded and will need to be advanced. Rotate the distributor counter clockwise until the rotor is pointed to #1. Review what I wrote in my prior post. Make sure the distributor is FULLY seated so the oil pump is engaged! Do we have points in this car? Are they set/ adjusted right? We need 4 things for an engine to run- spark, fuel compression and timing. if it doesnt run, one of them is missing. ---------- Post added at 11:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:24 PM ---------- I just re-read your post. Ths is a brand new rebuild?? if so, you know that engine needs to be broken in right? Needs to start right up and run at around 2000 rpm or so for at least 20-25 minutes.
if you have a vacuum leak it will not start. if the pvc has no hose on it but the port on intake or carb is plugged then thats not the problem.maybe you chould post some pics and explain what you are doing as this shouldnt be this hard.follow wire from front left spark plug to where you have it on cap that will be the tower you need it to point to. then recheck all of your plug wires to make sure they are on the right plugs # 1 cyl is by powersteering pump #2 is opposite bank #3 next to # 1 ,4 next to # 2 and so on.
"tfickett": Please put your name in your signature, we are all here on a friendly first name base, also add your location to your profile :TU: And don't forget to introduce yourself (and your Buick) in the Wet behind the ears?? section of the board :Smarty: He says this: Maybe the thread starter should give us a wee bit more information. Is the engine in the car ? Did it come with a HEI from the factory, or did you put it in after the rebuild ? Like someone else already said in this thread, a HEI needs 12 V. So if the car came with a points ignition, you should remove the resistor wire that was feeding the original coil to get 12V.
Ok guys it 1974 buick 350 from a buick lesaber it came with the hei distributor. It ran when I bought it and decided to rebuild it .so now it rebuilt and back in the car and now it won't run.here are some pic of it at tdc on 0 and the rotor is pointing at number 1 cylinder so now where dos the number go rite above the rotor or 180from the rotor tip.
[HR][/HR]I've put number 1 rite above rotor button and it want to run bit it won't is this close or m I far off. I have all the vacuum ports close d off except the pcv hole there nothin in it. I don't understand why it won't run. Could the shaft rockers be to tigh that it won't run.I don't know any more just guessing
Soooooo...the rotor is supposed to line up with the number 1 POST on the distributor cap, not the cylinder on the block.
But since you can turn the base of the distributor while the rotor stays in the same position, you can pick any terminal to be the #1 terminal, as long as you use the right firing order from that position. Firing order = 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 When you put the timing mark on the 0 degrees mark, make sure that both valves on the number 1 cilinder (driver's side, LHD car, front of the car) are closed. The terminal where the rotor is pointing at in that position is your number 1 terminal. But like I said before, you can turn the base and pick another terminal. Sometimes you have to do that because of the length of the old spark plug wires, the length of the vacuum advance hose and the length of the 12 Volt wire that's feeding the distributor.
That is fine...as long as the number 1 plug wire is hooked up to the tower on the cap that the rotor is pointing to.
Put in you location so maybe someone can give you a hand. Ask around where you work to see if someone's done it before, will take about 10 minutes and save a ton of frustration!! Two people makes it much easier.
Well I think we figured it out I've had the timing rite the whole time we just found out that only half of my distrubitor tower are putting out spark 5hr today change control module and fought with timing then thought the wires were bad so change them and then no change so I need a new cap going to try that tommorow.
I found the best way is to rotate the oil pump shaft so that the slot is parallel to the crank shaft. Line up the harmonic balancer to 0" and make sure #1 is at top dead center and both valves closed. Then line up the distributor rotor is just a little behind the #1 post. Then drop the distributor down into the hole and let the helical gear turn the rotor so it is lined up with the post. The key I found was lining up the oil pump shaft slot to be parallel with the crank.
