JW. Are you talking about Amsoil break in oil? Wait , your using that driven stuff that Larry stated his motor was broken in with.
Yes, JW used that "Driven Stuff" on my engine, specifically the BR-30, and I have used the HR-2 and HR-4 to this day, never anything else.
I bought some of the amsoil break in oil from TA, so thats what I will be using. Any reviews on that oil . Larry? I also have that EOS GM additive
Brad Penn 10w -30 Blend w/ zinchttps://earth.app.goo.gl/?link=http...us=googleearth&cid=3133925421586326985&_icp=1
All good conversation. I will share this. Oil tested some years ago is likely not the same oil today. It may still be good oil but not what you expect. I should have known that oil producers change chemistry as they are bought and sold. Royal Purple is one. I have an uncle deep into the oil industry whom I recently rediscovered after our 2019 family reunion. He is a chemical engineer, and lubrication expert. He owns his own company. The insider information he has is gold. The most striking information was the popular off the shelf stuff being changed to use group 3 base oils and a trusted brand like Royal Purple changing. In short, find yourself the oil you prefer and trust and hope it isn't sucked into the soul-less profit game. Hope and trust that the company is authentic, honest and good. There are good oils out there. I'm not using any of the products mentioned in this thread.
In my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions, if you have to use an additive in your oil, you're using the wrong oil. Many years ago, I don't recall if it was in trade school or the GM training center, we were told that using 1/2 10w30 and 1/2 10w40 does not give you a 10w35. I don't understand why people mix different weights together. If you're adding one quart of 10w50 to four quarts of 10w30, what are you trying to accomplish? I've read on here and other sites about people mixing different weights and then using an additive. Why don't they just use the correct oil? A lot of chemicals are not compatible with each other. Just because you mix 10w30 and 10w50 using the same brand, how do you know that it's not doing more damage than good? I was always told that it was important to use the same oil every time due to the different chemicals in different brands. There, that's my opinion!
The reason I use Rotella 15w40 is because it used to have enough ZDDP in it that you didn't need an additive at all, and still does for a regular flat tappet cammed engine. Some of my engines have spring pressures that are much beyond what I'd trust an off the shelf, standard oil to be designed to handle. I'm sure something like a Brad Penn or other "race" specific oil would be fine on it's own. But I can get 4 qts of Rotella for $13, and I'm a thick oil believer, so I put 20w50 on top of that and half a bottle of ZDDP additive to cover my a$$. I know the viscosity doesn't average out to what the math says, but its what I run, have run, and will continue to run. I've got some big bump sticks with big spring pressures, and have never had a failure. My lifters look like new when I pull them, so whatever I'm doing, works.
I don’t have my Buick yet, but I’ve used full synthetic Rotella-T6 5W-40 in several vehicles and motorcycles without any issues.
