I fell upon more information than I cared to know...but it makes me curious. 1.) Who is runnig full synthetic oil? 2.) Can you tell me what base oil group the motor oil used falls into? Royal purple is no longer using group 4 as a base oil. Soooooo. Run some crazy oil like 15/40 Diesel motor oil or ... ? I know of only one company that sells and distrbutes base group 4 like what royal purple use to be. What's better is the company is in the good' ol USA.
My engine was broken in with Joe Gibbs Driven BR-30, https://www.drivenracingoil.com/br-30-5w-30-conventional-break-in-oil.html I then used conventional 10W/30 for about a year, https://www.drivenracingoil.com/hr2-10w-30-conventional-hot-rod-oil.html, I then switched over to full synthetic and have been using it since, https://www.drivenracingoil.com/hr4-10w-30-synthetic-hot-rod-oil.html
Rotella T, 15W-30. It's what the instructions that came with my new cam (flat tappet) said to use, so I just stuck with it. Probably switch over to synthetic eventually.
For the Buicks my basic 455 w TA STG1 cam ( old cam) & my alky injected full ported 60mm turbo's flat tappet 3.8 GN. The oil I will be using will be going into everything I own. So trying to stick with my understanding and what every one else is using in regard to my original questions....race, street, dd, diesel, whatever.
I have no issues with Royal Purple, but be aware that it no longer uses group 4 base oil. It is not the same quality as it was ~4 years ago. You may as well run to the nearest store and buy "synthetic".
Don't know what class Rotella T is, just know it still contains the zinc and other additives needed for breaking in a flat tappet cam since it is a diesel engine oil. It still says not for engines with a catalytic converter due to the high phosphorus content. My engine is stock for street use. Put a few thousand on it since the complete rebuild, with no probs.
The simple answer is, if the oil complies with European standards it is likely going to be a high quality oil with a group 4 base oil, otherwise it will be group 3 with additives which slapped with an advertising gimic claiming high quality. Most race oils have a short life span with higher corrosive qualities...which is not suitable for most classics or dds.
Well I'm in Australia so I use Penrite, an Aussie oil, I was running their mineral HPR30 (20-60) just went to their Full Synthetic HPR15(15-60) but on research find its not actually PAO-ESTER like what I now run in both my bikes (Victory V-Twins), I usually change oil well before its due, So next change Ill go to a group 4 PAO-ESTER We don't get sub-zero temps where I live
Mobil 1 in everything. Straight in everything with a roller cam but I add 1/2 a bottle of Zddplus in my stock big block `71 El Camino that still uses a flat tappet cam.
Here's a world of knowledge for you on real world testing and analysis, that cuts thru the claims and myths. https://tech.drivenracingoil.com/category/training-center/ Back in 2008, we did a oil analysis study in the shop on the new engines built that year.. That analysis of the motors after the initial break in and dyno, constantly showed that the BR break in oil produced less wear metal. I did 10-12 engines that year, half with the oil I was using (Rotella with EOS) and half with Joe Gibbs BR30. This was no doubt due to the higher phosphorus and zinc levels in that oil, and the lack of detergent. Switched to the Driven oil products from Joe Gibbs, that question is settled for me. It's not "race oil" it is in fact engineered for classic cars.. the HR series of oils has a storage additive in it, that helps it cling to parts during long periods of sitting. I personally like the dino based oil, as most of us simply don't use our vehicles in the severe temperature conditions that synthetic oil was designed for, $8 a quart is enough, no need to spend more. JW
I bought a couple cases of Brad Penn last time I was at Bowling Green. Saved on shipping anyway. Green stuff from Pennsylvania...great product.
I'm a Rotella 15w40 with ZDDP additive guy myself. If it's something that takes 6 qts, I'll top that off with 20w50 Napa (Valvoline).
