Western PA. Where can I find a 12 bolt?

Just got a 71 skylark a couple weeks ago and I'd like to put in a 12 bolt rear end, but I don't want to break the bank. Any idea where I can find 1 in western PA? Rebuilding is definitely an option. By the way I know it has a 10 bolt in it right now and I'm almost 100% sure its a NON C-clip, and I want a Detroit true track in it so I kinda have to up grade.
Hoping to get good news:Comp:

 

I would build the 10 bolt 8.5...It will be the best option for strength and cost.

I stock TRUE TRACs for the 8.5 28 spline or 30 spline

If you need 12 bolt strength we can order you up some 30 spline aftermarket axles for the 8.5 that are 30 spline and will be RACE strength. Then you can use the 30 spline true trac unit your choice of gears some new bearings and you will be running strong and still have some money in your pocket. JIm

 

If you need a 12 bolt I have them too.

I have 3.55 posi ready to go.

I also have a 3.90 10 bolt 8.5 DETROIT LOCKER if you think you need that kind of strength. lol.

 

Well Right now I'm at 250hp and 360tq.......stock, hopefully. But down the road I am thinking of a 455, or maybe even a 494 stroker, maybe 400-450hp at the most. So I'm thinking of going with the 12 bolt. S I'll be able to up grade it down the road if i need to. Gotta wait till January tho to buy, but looking for prices right now. Its a 71 skylark custom with a 350 and a 4bb carb. Anybody got an idea as to what gears it has already?

 

I have one for 850.00 3:31 gear 12 bolt

 

Ok so if I understand this correctly I don't have to worry about getting the Detroit true track for the rear end I have already? Even if it has bolt in axles? It don't really trust what I can't understand, and I sure can't understand how bolt in axles are safe with the bearings pressed on...... no disrespect but I'm just paranoid like that. And what about brakes? I'm planning on getting some nice Wilwood brakes for it.

 

P.S I am will to listen if anyone can explain to me the monkey on how and why the bearings work on bolt in axles. I'm more than willing to use the original rear end but I really do want to get the brakes and limited slip diff I want for it.

 

LOL... YAh you really need some help here from what I am reading in the posts...

Ok - ALL race axles have BOLT IN AXLES - WITH PRESS ON BEARINGS... This is why Larry was say the 8.5 would give you piece of mind on breakage factor.

c-clip eliminator kit is a aftermarket way to get PRESS ON BEARING that bolt to the axle flange end (same place the backing plate is bolted) to keep them from be thrown from the housing upon any axle failure.

NOW ALL 12 bolt chevys came stock with c-clip retention axles which are held in at the center of the carrier and about a 1/4 of steel button at the end of the axle shaft. SO everything from the spline outward to the wheel flange is free floating to slide out of the housing upon ANY axle breakage anywhere the whole length or the entire axle shaft.

THIS is why Buick guys just do not prefer the 12 bolt chevy - It is called the 455 TORQUE MONSTER MOTOR...tends to snap stock factory axles when sticky tires are planting the torque to the ground.

So Larry was saying at least if something does brake you will not ruin the rear 1/4 panels of the pretty restored Muscle Car.

Hope this helps you understand what you are needed in a rear. IF NOT- PM me and will set up a phone call and you can shoot as many questions as you need till you feel comfortable on the subject so you can make a good educated decision on buying OR building a rear. Jim:TU:

 

scandc.com sells 12bolt axles with ford 9 big ends so you get bolt-in axles that way too

hey monzaz, are you able to just slapp in the internals from a 71-72 8.5 rear and install them in a leaf-spring housing to get bolt in axles? or can you just weld on leaf perches onto the 71-72 axle and grind off the ears?

sorry to steal the thread

 

Ok here is the item number from Jegs so can some tell me if it will work?
912A556. Just enter it in the search thingy.

 

Yep that is it. Jim

 

You have to use the complete housing it has the correct housing ends that give you BOLT IN AXLES.

If you buy AXLE with ford ends you will need the FORD housing ends and have to weld them on to the housing...THAt really requires a narrowing bar to make certain the are square with the carrier saddles in the center section.

I can do all this for you on your housing...I just do not know how far you are and wether you want to speed the money.

AS long as you cut off the brackets from the outer lower control arm area you should be able to weld your leaf spring perches on. GET you pinion angle correct or you will be in trouble... Jim

 

So will that part work or not? Cu it doesnt say in the description wearther the axle uses c clips on the Jegs website.

 

Thanks, i ordered a bunch of parts from you a while back for my 8.5 in the 72lark.. I was just interested to see see if I could get a BIA for the leaf-sprung apollo i'm getting soon.
Thanks for the explanation though
Mike

 

Just Build one - Your Apollo should have a good 8.5 under the car to rebuild which will be your best ticket to strength. Jim

We can make that a SUPER 8.5 10 bolt with 30 spline axles.

 

LArry, HE is looking at the EATON TRUE TRAC posi not the clutch type eaton unit. He has the correct number. Jim

 

ALL 8.5 carrier can be used in BOLT IN AXLE application...it is only the 8.5 c-clip rears that you need to get the c-clip carrier...IT IS A MUST for c-clip retention axles.

Jim
J D Race

 

sounds good to me......less money to spend lol in a good way. True track and wilwood brakes in January. And probably some suspension stuff to. Since I wanna clean up the rear(and it has to come off any way) I'll be able to double check the rear end and make sure it is what i think it is.