Waterpump

Changing the waterpump doesn't appear to be too difficult even for a novice like me, but is it? The bearings in the front of mine are pretty loose so its time for it to be changed. Should I just get a rebuilt one or go to TA and get a new one from them? Any suggestions?

 

I put a rebuilt one on my 350 4 years ago and when I sold the car a month ago, it was still flyin.

It's not a bad project...a few hours at most. You might break off a bolt or 2, so soak them overnight with PB blaster and try to break them free after that. I broke one bolt and I didn't soak them at all. I wish I did.

Overall, it's a fun Sunday project. I think my pump rebuilt was $20. I still have an extra reman in the attic I bought as an extra a couple months ago.

 

Yah, the rebuilt pump I found is 22.50 and its 50 for one from TA... that is why I asked. I guess I'll go with the rebuilt one... but I think I'm just itchin' to be cool and order something from TA :grin: ... too bad I don't have much money to spare o No:

What else will I need other than the penetrating oil? Gaskets?

 

all you have to do is remove the fan and shroud and then take off the upper rad hose. you'll have a lot of little 7/16 bolts and a few 1/2 that go all the way through to the block. soak all of them in penetrating oil for a while to be sure...i didn't and i had no problems, but i think i just got lucky. then all you have to do is clean and put the new gasket and pump on. i'd call it an hour job if you don't run into any snags.

 

The gasket should come in the pump box. You'll need a bottle of blue RTV silicone....and buy a couple gallons of antifreeze. It's nice to have fresh stuff in there.New belts if you feel yours are dying...since you'll have them off. Change the radiator cap if you feel so needed. That will effect how hot the engine runs, believe it or not. I had a bad cap on my LeSabre that made it overheat.

Lots of little things you can do at once to help extend the driving life of the car.

 

Both the radiator and the cap were put in right before I bought the car (a year and a half ago, and I've only put 5000 miles on it..) ... it doesn't seem to run hot, its just the bearings in the pump.

Thanks for the tips and all the help :grin: :grin:

Oh, are the torque specs very important? If so, what are they?

 

I prefer new over a rebuilt water pump . If you get a good rebuilt your OK but i put 3 rebuilts on my 454 Suburban on a Sunday !! Trak auto Parts for you ! New pumps ever since ! Good Luck !:beer :TU: :TU:

 

I'm on reman pump #3. The first one went 1 day after I ran some radiator flush through the system... the next on just went by surpise. I've had good luck with reman pumps before, so I'll still use em.
It takes me 20 minutes or less to change em.
I find the gasket shilac works the best for the gasket. It's in a little brown bottle with either an indian or a lion on it.
Good luck

 

the torque specs are on TA's site. i just snug the bolts up really well with a normal wrench or ratchet.

 

I'd use the torque wrench if you're a novice. You'd be surpised how easy it is to strip out aluminum threads or even snap a little bolt like that.

 

Thanks for all the tips! If I can get my hands on a torque wrench on the day I do it (should be within the next two or three days) I will use it, otherwise I'll just be careful My access to tools is spotty depending on the day/week... but I usually have enough to get the simple stuff done (7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 11/16 in wrenches and small and large socket/ratchets).

 

Eric , Bring your car over here , We got the tools !!:laugh: :beer

 

:grin: If it weren't a two day drive....

 

i quit using a torque wrench after i broke an ear on my timing cover with it.:blast:

 

If thats a 350 engine a V-6 waterpump will work if you got one laying around.

 

This is my first REAL Buick, and the first car of my own that I've done any work on... so spare parts aren't abundant... thanks for the tip though, knowledge is power

 

little bolts

Remember the little ones are threaded into aluminium. Be gentle taking them out, work them in and out for the first couple of turns. Keep adding oil as they start to turn. They go in with IN LBS, so check the torque specs. If you have a propane torch, put some heat on them. Use anti-seize when you button it up.

:TU:

- Bill

 

Ohhh man it been a year or so and it just dawned on me. As I was gonna ask if anyone does the hi flow mod where you poprivit a back plat on to the impeller so it flows better.

Anyways I did that to my Buick 350 a while back and soon after started to lose heat. Changed the pump and the tin can lid I used for the back plate was gone.


It just dawned on me that when It came lose and got chewed up, it got lodged in my heater core in tiny pieces. A few times I have used the car wash thingy to blow the heater core out and it helps but it must have grounded that lid into powder.

The water pump was fine but I replaced it any ways and didn't do the back plate mod again. I still don't get very good heat.

Wonder why. ou:

Matt

 

So basically... barely more than finger tight with the little bolts? I will just be very careful.

 

You'll want more than finger tight:grin: Just snug them until they won't vibrate loose. You don't want coolant oozing from the sides because you skimped on the muscle power putting the bolts on:gt: