I was taught a different way with cork rocker cover gaskets. Once you have cleaned and checked surfaces for flatness I use a contact glue (ados F2 has been my go to for over 30 years ) to glue the cork gasket to the cover then a thin smear of grease on the head side of the gasket. This has always served me well even on English motors that require regular tappet adjustment and the oil always wants to escape, I can usually remove & refit several times without replacement or leaks. I am not disagreeing with any of the above methods suggested, seal em up and be done with it on hydraulic cam set'n'forget set ups for sure. On anything requiring regular maintenance this is what works for me.
Yeah, the shipping cost to send the clamps to the UK was more than the clamps. You will not need any gasket sealer with the clamps. Just make sure the cover flanges are flat. I have found standard rubber Fel Pro gaskets will last many years. However, I did a quick search and it seems they no longer make pure rubber gaskets anymore for the Buick 455. Seems they only make a cork/rubber combo. So try to find a set with the most rubber content. I have a set of the pure rubber gaskets on one of my cars that have been on there since 1992. They vc bolts have never been re-torqued and it's is still nice and dry around the covers ...27 years and 60K miles later
Larry: I am curious about your metal spacers. Who made them ? How thick are they ? Of course you will need longer 1/4-20 bolts than what I sent you. If you can find rubber gaskets they are the best. They will last decades. I just did a quick search but the auto parts websites I searched only show rubber/cork versions now. I think you will love how the clamps distribute all the pressure more evenly around the cover.
You are correct. Years ago before I designed my clamp that's what I did. Glue the gasket to the cover and put grease between the gasket and head.....because, the biggest problem with the Buick engines is the ( as-cast) rough surface on the head for the gasket. The Pontiac guys were lucky. They had a machined gasket surface. But the Buicks were horribly rough
Thanks Alan, The spacer plates are about 1/4” thick, maybe more. I have some longer bolts but I will buy whatever I need to make it work. I found the rubber gaskets at rockauto, Felpro VS50004R, wholesale close out for 4.81/pr, 5 sets left. I bought all 5 sets https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...id+v8,1379763,engine,valve+cover+gasket,10710
That is awesome Larry ! Thanks for the part number. I would love to see a pic of your setup when everything is finished
Thanks for all of the information guys. Alan, I hear what you're saying about the rubber gaskets. I have already purchased and got over this set: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8006236&cc=1379763&jsn=10443 which has a cork gasket. I did that because I read the cork were much better but I understand what you're saying about your experience. I will stick with the ones that I have for now as the worst that will happen is they leak and I just have to get some different rubber ones anyway. If I were in the US then it would not be too bad but every time I bring something over to the UK, it more than doubles the price of the item. And just to check Alan - the required bolts are included with the clamp?
Yes Adam, the longer 1/4-20 bolts are included along with the flat washers that go between the bolt head and the clamp. Cork will work for awhile but some tend to soak up oil and once fully saturated the oil "weeps" out. At least the next time if you have to change out the cork gaskets again the cover flange will still be flat
Ah, got you! Ok Alan, thanks so much for the advice. Looking forward to the clamps arriving. I will be making a video about the gasket change, so I will be sure to feature your clamps.
Hey Guys, a different problem I am facing right now is the cover installation itself..specifically the last lower bolt on the passenger side.. There is almost no space to screw that one in/out as there is the AC evaporator housing in the way.. The previous owner wasn't able either, thats why it is leaking from there. Any tricks for that one? (1971 350-2)
Would something like this help? https://www.halfords.com/workshop-t...1g4cw0nu7S4Qec6rMIjIv0R40TWk5akQaAjSiEALw_wcB
Those are excellent for getting at the rear spark plugs, a must have, but the rear cover bolts are not that difficult to do with what I posted.
After you remove the covers and BEFORE scraping the old sealer off of the head mating surface, be sure to plug the oil return holes in the head with with something .. or you will eventually find it in the pick-up screen when your oil pressure drops Cleaning the surfaces of both the head and the valve cover is almost as important as having a flat surface .. after all the gook is scraped off, I use brake cleaner on a paper towel and repeat over and over until there is no discoloration on the towel. You won't believe how many times this can take .. .. good luck - the skills you learn on this job will apply to almost every sealed surface job ahead of you and this is perhaps the easiest to learn on since everything is relatively easy to access.
X2, if the return holes get clogged, oil will sit in the head and get sucked down the valve guides and burned in the combustion Chambers, it will smoke at idle.
Thanks for the tip. I changed 1 yesterday and covered everything with microfibres. I also had a vacuum cleaner running constantly as I scraped stuff away.
