Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

Hey everybody,
I have a leak under the valve cover of my 1972 Buick Riviera. I would like to do the replacement myself rather than put it in the workshop, as the workshop has told me it is something I could handle. I'll do both sides at the same time.

I have ordered some new gaskets (I ordered the whole lot because the workshop said they might do the others):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8006236&cc=1021464&jsn=12

I have also got some gasket compound:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Permatex...hash=item2f07467ca8:m:m-R5VUaY9nGTRZekOgW-Tig

I have a few questions:

1. Are there any particular tips you could give me about doing this job?
   
2. What is the torque setting for the bolts on the valve cover?
3. Am I correct in thinking that best bolt removal procedure is to slacken on opposing sides and the reverse for tightening back up?
4. I saw Larry's post about these - http://www.almackclamps.com/8352.html. Are they worth getting? Larry, if you see this, have they been good?

Thanks very much for any info as always guys!

 

Clean, clean, the bolts can come out in any order, when the valve covers are off clean the gasket surface and covers and paint them if you want, if there is any old gasket stuck on the cylinder head clean them well too, you may want to tuck some paper towels around the rockers to keep debris out. wipe the gasket surfaces with a good cleaner to de grease, Laquer thinner works well. reinstall gaskets with as little sealer as you can, dry is best. cover bolts should be tightened in Inch lbs. ( not sure on specs) before reinstall check cover surface for flat surface, over tightening can bend them, causing potential leaks. easy to do in a couple hours with simple hand tools, good luck on your project! Bruce H.

 

You will have much better luck with TA performance 1/4in gaskets instead of the Mahle gaskets

 

Thanks for the advice guys.

Hugger, I have the Mahle stuff now but why would you say the TA Performance is better? I read up on the Mahle and it seemed very good.

 

The TA 1/4 gasket is thicker.

Make sure you flip the cover up side down and look at each bolt hole and flatten any of them that may have pushed down due to over tightening. The sealing surface is extremely narrow. I believe the torque is 48 inch pounds. I just use a 1/4 driver and give it wrist pressure.

 

Much better material,..the cork is much tighter,. And if you got the rubber it doesn't do well at all with the stamped covers,..and yes the Almack clamp would be a wise investment

 

I used the silicone/rubber gaskets because the cork would not seat properly. No leaks now. U may have to play with the cover bolts because they are bit on the short side. What did was to place a nut with a bit of tape about the edges so that i could push down on the cover bolts to get them started in the head holes.

 

Thanks for all of the advice guys, useful info. I will look into TA gasket.

Thanks for the advice about the pressure John, you were correct, I have found it in the workshop manual:
'Install rocker arm cover and new gasket. Torque bolts to 4 lb. ft.

 

One thing that was not touched upon (or I missed it) was that the biggest single cause of valve cover leaks is over-tightening the bolts. I would tighten the bolts to about 2-5 ft lbs maximum. I would also use the removable locktite on the threads of the bolts (capscrews if you want to be absolutely terminologically correct). Issue #2 is that the sealing edge of the valve cover must be absolutely straight. You will need an accurate straightedge for this. The engine is 47 years old and most likely has had more then one valve cover gasket replacement, which means that there have been more then one attempt to screw it up. Over-tightening the cover bolts often results in distorting more then the area around the bolt holes - that's why I love cast Aluminum valve covers. Finally - GM didn't use sealer on the VC gaskets; if you put a straight cover over good gaskets and don't over-tighten the screws as most people do , they won't leak.

 

Thanks John, that information is really useful. I will keep all of that in mind. I believe you are right, it has been replaced at some point. When looking around the cover I could see what looked like some part of the gasket poking out - which is probably why it is leaking!

I have contacted TA - they are getting a price to me.

 

All good advice provided so far, all based on years of experience, and many instances of failed installs. Having been there too, I have a slightly different approach. I actually prefer Felpro rubber valve cover gaskets, and maybe the Mahle is similiar. I think any gasket will work.
1. Remove and clean thoroughly as prior stated. Good time to scuff, clean and paint the valve covers on the outside. Tap the distorted holes flat with a small hammer. Be sure to check the whole cover for flatness and distortion.
2. Clean heads as already stated. You can get any loose debris out of the head and valvetrain with a shop vac. Best to use rags and paper towels to minimize debris getting in the head.
3. The most important step. Adhere the new gaskets to the valve cover. I have tried the silicones and they are ok, but have found that Permatex Right Stuff is even better. I believe it is urethane based. It might be hard to remove the next time, but is a far superior gasket sealer in my opinion. The goal is no leaks! Place the valve cover on a flat surface and weight it down and allow it to dry, overnight if possible.
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...makers/permatex-the-right-stuff-gasket-maker/

4. Install valve covers to head, using a thin coat of the same sealant. Lightly torque bolts. Use the aftermarket valve cover clamps if possible like these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...igJGR6JWX7pVCLTAmCJlpd0wdK_kUF5waAkVBEALw_wcB

5. Let dry. check Bolts. Enjoy leak free valve covers.

Good luck. Easy job. Take your time.

 

That's great info, thank you very much. I already got some Permatex, so good to hear that it was a good buy.

 

I’ll second PGBuick’s routine - use a thin layer of The Right Stuff on both sides of the gaskets. Also use some red Loctite on the bolts. Make sure the bolts are clean and dry, and the bolt holes are clean are dry.

 

Thanks for all your input guys, it's much appreciated.

 

Yep, I fought those thin stamped steel Buick factory covers for years. A one-piece steel clamp applying the same amount of pressure all the way around the cover cured the issue...permanently....without needing any gasket sealer

 

Hey Alan, I didn't realise you were on here. Looking forward to hearing back from you. I'll be sure to do a video on my YouTube channel about your gasket clamps. Just wish I lived in the US. I think I've spent as much on shipping and import as I have on parts!

 

1/4-16