your going to spend more $ buying the degree wheel and dial indicator than time to do the deed. Although it's probably going to be fairly close...you will know it's right on.
If you have to buy the degree wheel etc, you might be better off hiring someone to do it for you. The reason I am suggesting that you degree the cam is so that you do not end up with the cam WAY out of whack... If the cam is installed wrong terrible performance results. As long as you are in the ballpark the engine will run fine, however with out checking what it is degreed at how do we know? I use the nice TA billet timing set so I can fine tune the cam timing. I have also spent hours and hours changing the degree of the cam in trial and error. There is performance to be had by finding the best cam settings with each engine combo. You should have no valve to piston clearances with those cams HOWEVER, if there is a chance that any machine work has been done to the engine there may be interferance. I suggest checking the valve to piston clearance before starting the engine just to be sure. Any time machine work to the head surface or block surface, always check for valve to piston clearance. Or maybe you would like to use some nice pistons like these: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v...s Jan 09/?action=view¤t=diamondlove.jpg
455 off of CL with turbo 400 can be had for $300-$500. Total rebuild with "some" nice performance upgrades would be in the area of $2000 Rearend with posi is at least another $1000 sounds like a lot, but consider the smile factor:Brow:
I wish I could say the same and the main reason I started this thread. If I'm going to pull it the motor might as well freshen her up too.
Hi guys, I have been looking at parts etc if I go ahead and pull the motor. I see two different size pushrods listed over a TA. How would I know what I should have in my motor? What was the stock size? The is the larger for higher HP builds? Thanks as always.
68 and 69 pushrods are solid with 3/8" ball ends. 70-80 have hollow passage for oiling and 5/16" ball ends.
Hi All, Didn't have much time today with her since the house needed cleaning for a showing tomorrow...but I did go and check my timing...etc...so it was all in around 2600 rpm at 34 total....Check compression on 6 cyl and inspected 6 plugs. What does this tell me and does it impact a top end refresh? Cyl 1 plug ok Comp 125 123 Cyl 2 plug perfect Comp 120 120 Cyl 3 Plug lots of carbon Comp 115 118 Cyl 4 plug lots of carbon Comp 115 118 Cyl 5 Plug ok Comp 125 123 Cyl 7 plug ok Comp 125 125
I would not be too concerned about the carbon, it is likely a bad spark plug wire or a sticky valve causing the carbon build up. Since you plan to rebuild the heads anyways I would just take note of which cylinders were carbon fouling the plugs and have the machine shop look for an issue in the heads. Your compression numbers seem low however they are close to each other and that is most important. There are a few different ways that the compression test can be done so I would not worry about the numbers much just make sure the other 2 cylinders are in the same range and then go ahead with the top end rebuild in my opinion.
those numbers seem pretty low for a sp block unless there is either worn rings, valves, or an aftermarket cam in there. I seem to remember The old sp block I had in there ( before my son spun 2 bearings ) with a ta 310 would still crank 185 lbs. What does your oil look like ?? Does it dirty quickly ? You might try oiling the cylinders and doing the test again.
Was the carb held fully open when you did the compression test? Good point, if the numbers are higher with oil on the piston then you should have the bottom end rebuilt with at least new rings and bearings.
The motor was went through by previous and its suppose.to be stock gm parts in it...the heads are 71...i know its a sp.block but not sure what pistons etc...i have not noticed oil getting dirty fast but will keep.it in mind..car was.warmed up....but did not put oil.in cylinders
No the carb wasnt fully opened? Was i suppose to do that? If I do rebuild her I was thinking of new rings and bearings would be a good idea as well.
Carb needs to be open to get proper compression test readings, otherwise you are restricting the amount of air the pistons can suck in, therefore limiting the amount of compression that can be built up in each cylinder.
Yeah, you will get higher readings with the carb held at full throttle... Just make sure you pull the coil wire off. If you do have to rebuild it then most likely you will want to have the block and crank measured by a machine shop to see if machine work is required... Hopefully you can just do a top end rebuild and leave the bottom end alone. The power is in the heads. :TU:
The Poston 118 is a bit more aggresive than either the 212 or 284: Here is a simulator showing the 118, note the lack of low RPM torque and better HP from 3500-6000 RPM: http://www.tworock.com/mjd/buick/350/Poston GS 350-118.jpg Here is the 212, note the better low RPM torque and lower HP in the 3500 to 6000 range. http://www.tworock.com/mjd/buick/350/ta-212.jpg For a street car, the 212 would be better in most cases, you could sell the 118 cam though I am sure. The only way I would go with the 118 is if I was adding a stall converter with a 2800-3200 stall converter, and some 3.42 or better gears.
