I was checking u-hauls web site to see about transporting a vehicle and it said that my 89 crown Vic is not heavy enough to haul a 74 century. What the *@$, the car is rated by Ford to have a towing capacity of 5000#. they say the same thing for my 95 explorer 4x4. I know that it can be done as my best freind hauled a 70 olds rally 350 using a u-haul car trailer with his 96 2wd explorer. I got pics to prove it. U-haul is full of crap Tim
I rented one and they never asked me what I was towing it with or what I was towing on it. Just tell them it is only a frame and rolling suspension from a 1970 Skylark.
Tim, you may be over the weight limit, if the '74 weighs 4200lb, you got to cosider the trailer weight & occupants of the ford & any extra gear. This would put you over 5000. Got this info in my owners manual for towing. Randy
You said that your '95 explorer is rated the same. Why not tow the car with that? I'm sure they wouldn't bicker as much about you towing with an explorer as they did about your Vic. Just a thought. I would probably just rent a flatbed trailer and borrow a truck from someone if I could, but I understand that isn't always an option.
I towed my 66 GS on one of those cast iron U-Haul trailers with my 92 v8 Dodge Dakota pickup. Talk about hairy. What galled me was that the geniuses at U-Haul wouldn't rent one of their light aluminum trailers because my truck didn't weigh enough!!!!!
I needed one for my `69 Riviera and they said the car was too heavy and couldn't rent me a trailer no matter what truck I used. I don't have a vehicle that can tow a trailer myself. In the last few years I've just used "Tow for Less" those are the guys with their own pick-ups and tilt back fifth wheel type trailers. For $25-$30 dollars I can have a car towed anywhere in town. No hassles, no screwing around. I even had a car that the trans pan was loose (unknown to me) and the tranny fluid just poored out all over the guys bed, no problem he said, but I still gave him a couple of extra dollars to take it to a car wash and hose it off. If I had borowed a friends trailer (especially if it was wood) that would have been a disaster. Of course going a longer distance would not be as reasonable, but around town it can't be beat. Dave
The same car with the trans leak was a `68 Riviera donor car I had completely dissasembled it and cut it into storable parts: roof, back half, bare frame etc. I needed to dispose of it becuase I lost storage for those items and the tow companies couldn't take it because it not being able to roll. So I rented a big U-haul truck, wasn't exactly sure how I was going to get it all in there, but I got lucky. Next door to where the parts were the guy ran a landscaping business and he had about 10 day laborers there so we all picked up the frame and threw it into the truck, same with the back half etc. I didn't speak Spanish and they didn't speak English so I had to mime what I wanted to do, they were all laughing, but it worked out great. I took it to a scrap metal company and they just hooked a chain to it and ripped it out of there. So much for a perfect back half and frame (AZ stuff). Dave
You have to consider the weight of the trailer. If it weighs 2,000 lbs which is reasonable considering my boat trailer weighs 1,800lbs, then the car has to weigh less than 3,000 lbs. I've never been turned down with my 3/4 ton Suburban with a 454.:grin: ________ VAPORIZE
U Haul, An adventure in Moving! U-haul's old slogan says it all. It truly is an adventure in moving! PULLING a trailer/car with the vehicles you describe is not the problem. STOPPING IS A MAJOR PROBLEM! You will not have enough braking capability. The trailer brakes will help some/very little as U-haul uses surge brakes which provide no help for trailer sway. It's even worse with a tow dolly as they have NO BRAKES! The first rule of towing is to have a tow vehicle larger/bigger than the trailer/vehicle you are towing. This would not be the case as you have described. Sure you can go slower however there are still many things that can jump up and get you. We all know that the hottest of best speed equipment available for our cars won't worked if not properly matched/sized for the application. Same here. Wrong speed equipment will make you go slower. Wrong towing equipment can/could cause an accident that could injure you and maybe me if you hit me. That would not make me very happy. Do the proper thing and use the proper equipment. Rest assured in U-hauls many years in business they have seen it all including everyone who thinks their rules are bullshit and they can haul whatever they want. Improperly using U-haul equipment may place yourself in a severe liability position. You hit someone and they do a little checking and find that you are improperly using U-haul eqiupment, I hope your have a good lawyer! Most importantly I, and the other members of the board, do not want anyone injured or you car damaged. Tow it the right way, U-haul really does have your best interest in mind!
Mike Good points. I regularly tow an 8,600 lb boat/trailer and Suburban have notoriously bad brakes. I upgraded to high performance ventilated rotors, calipers and ceramic pads. The difference is night and day. Carquest carries the equipment as "Severe Duty" rotors, etc. ________ Teen vid
Electric brakes really help out when trying to stop a 6000 lb car and trailer behind you. This is assuming the trailer you have rented/bought has the electric brake option on it. I tow very heavy loads on a daily basis with my 3/4 ton ford cargo van. It pulls just fine but w/o the electric brakes my rotors took a hammering....and it was really hard to stop in time for a light without leaving rubber behine me. I got a trailer w/ electric brakes and it is like night and day...at about the same time I had new front rotors, calipers, and pads put on...all havey duty. Adam
Trust me from someone who was flung around backwards with a 70 GS on a trailor hooked to a GS at 60 MPH.......it is NOT fun. I have a flat trailor and a Yukon with LOAD CONTROL DEVISES!!!! I let my wife tow with that equipment only, without it I wouldnt tow with the yukon..... I learned a valuable lesson about towing or actually several 1 never tow a GS with a GS 2 Always have some tongue weight 3 Never ever tow a car that weighes 4000lbs on a 2000 lb trailor without at least 3/4 ton truck suspension. 4 never tow a GS with a GS Im going to post a couple pictures here to prove my story!! BRB!!
Pictures Ok about 15 years ago this is what happened on the way to BG. BTW I met a guy named BB Sam Davis with the same color GS and I gave him a heart attack with a huge slice of paint from my GS!!!:Brow: but he forgave me!! Here are the pictures since I have several I will let you look and I will only post the one...... http://www.networksplus.net/mrbuick/wreck1.jpg http://www.networksplus.net/mrbuick/wreck2.jpg http://www.networksplus.net/mrbuick/wreck3.jpg http://www.networksplus.net/mrbuick/wreck4.jpg http://www.networksplus.net/mrbuick/wreck5.jpg
Thanks guys for all the info, I will probaly just get the car shipped if I decieded to get it. What about towing shorted distances The 73 I want is in Cheyenne, about 45-50 miles from home. one big problem is that coming in to Laramie, there is a 5% downhill grade that is about 4-5 miles long and curvy. What would you sugest as the safest way to haul it home. If it is in as good a shape as the guy says I will just drive it. Tim
If it's that close but needs to be towed why not rent a u-haul truck to tow the car on the trailer. ________ Toyota land cruiser prado specifications
Gregg B, what year suburban do you have? I've got an 01'' 3/4 ton 4x4 with 4 wheel disc. this is the best stopping vehicle I have ever towed with, and I'm pulling a 26 ft' enclosed trailer with car and tools at approx. 9500lbs, it is also a 8.1 litre eng. and I think it just great!! Bruce
Bruce It's a '98. The brakes were upgraded with the change in body style. You've got the good ones from the factory. Mine cost $600 plus installation to upgrade. ________ Vapir no2 vaporizer
