I have a thread somewhere completely detailing the installation of my 200-4R trans in my car. I'll see if I can locate it. Here you go: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...R-in-a-1970-GS-A-Tutorial-Pictoral&highlight=
I used the same cross member and all, just the additional alignment holes on the frame. Also did the 3.73 rear gears, with posi unit and Love it, big difference...
I am so very excited! I fully rebuilt the trans with all the hi-po ck performance upgrades included their tq. I followed Ken's at Everyday performance's, walk-through, as well as communicating with others here, regarding the detent on the column shift. Any solid procedure advice helpful. I understand from Ken, you need to modify the neutral safety switch to allow for the extra detent? How do you properly get the new L1? Do I even need a neutral safety switch really?
detent on column shift? don't worry about that as much as detent cable to carb, incorrect hook up will cause pump to overpressure and burn it out sending metal into rest of trans. work on that before starting engine. you did put a 10 vane pump in?
Thanks, I am good regarding the tv cable to carb etc. I have heard that when you force the column shifter past L1 to get to the new L1, it will break the NSS. Looking for a good way around that. It is s BQ trans. Has the preferred governor and valve body. Yes, I am using a 10 vane. CKPerformance master rebuild kit. Includes all performance clutches and steels. Included the CK Billet Aluminum Super Servo, Valve Body recalibration kit, lock up kit and oil pump mod kit. Installed CK's forward hardened billet drum, hardened billet input shaft, Hardened intermediate drum, hardened sun shell and hardened pump stator tube. CK 12 inch lock up 2200 stall converter. Yikes! I am not so concerned about the column shift indicator showing accurate, but I want to make sure what mod I need for the extra detent created p.s., all this included a not so understanding wife, lol
I built a new NSS from an 87 GN NSS expoxied onto the old NSS backing metal. It has worked for 3 years now so I'm thinking it will hold up. Mine is mounted on the floor shifter assembly but if your column can get to the new L1 then this switch should fix it. With the old NSS, I could only get it to start in Park or Drive and the reverse lights only came on in Neutral.
Not sure what you mean by kit? http://www.ckperformance.com/View/MASTER-REBUILD-KIT-C This is the one I ordered. Chris @ CK talked about my combo and felt the 2200 stall for my Skylark would work real good for a cruiser
Do you know what it consist of? Is it their kit or are they reselling a Transgo, B&M kit or using some of their parts?
No, it is their kit. Not a restamp. Chris makes it. Includes pressure regulator valve spring, .555" tv boost valve and sleeve. 1-2 accumulator spring 3-4 accumulator spring 4 .250 cup plugs 3-4 accumulator piston and seal 1 accumulator valve spring 1 line bias valve spring 1 separator plate 1 case to separator plate gasket 1 separator plate to valve body gasket 1 accumulator housing gasket 1 pan gasket 1 servo return spring 1 inner pump priming spring 1 outer pump priming spring Seemed to be top quality. I am gonna be running the trans at a dyno Wednesday morning to ensure I did it correct before installation.
I'm pretty sure that's the kit I used. Instructions were pretty good. Kinda wish the parts were labeled along with the pics in the instructions but that is probably nitpicking things. I thought it went really well. Shifts aggressively to second and third. I'm still having a slight issue with shifting early into second but that's a completely different issue. I liked everything I received from CK. I purchased his book too. Basically has the same instructions in the book too for the kit.
So great success today. I have a clue what I am doing afterall. After a complete teardown and rebuild in my basement, I did get to the trans dyno this morning. Trans performed perfect as well as CK's torque converter. low tv pressures were at 90 psi. Full tv pressure to 295 in each gear and 145 in reverse. Appeared to shift nice and positive. Only problem I ran into was the pump bushing. Apparently, I mis-calculated the bushing placement when installing. I drove it in too far and blocked the drain back passage. This cause fluid to spill our of the seal like crazy. I am human. I will replace the bushing, seal pump case gasket and o-ring and be back in business. I am now clear to go with the rest of the install. I am very pleased and relieved!
In my opinion, that half of the pump is ruined. 200-4R and 700-R4 pumps have a small shoulder machined into the edge of the pump to prevent the bushing from spinning out of the pump. It looks much like the bushing in your picture when that happens. The bushing should be removed/replaced from the inside half of the pump with the correct driver(or reasonable facsimile) to prevent damaging that shoulder.
Yes, I will inspect once I get it out of there. Maybe I will get lucky. Any benefit to using loc-tite on new bushing? Is reverse max-tv pressure too low?
If you're going to use that pump-half, I see no harm in using the loc-tite. You might even want to try staking the bushing. Are you sure you typed the pressures in your post correctly? Going by the pressure chart from a service manual, they seem reversed from what you posted.
I called Chris over at CK after the dyno. He said the full tv pressures were spot on. He said the reverse full tv was "ok". Just curious what control the full pressure for reverse only? Draning trans overnight and will pull pump tomorrow after work
