Sorry, didn't check this thread for a few days. Here's the pics. The trick is to get the ears wrapped around enough to hold the switch and the epoxy keeps it together.
That makes sense, is there a real drawback if reverse pressure at full tv is on the low side? I mean, just reverse right? Just trying to understand. Ck's kit did not replace the reverse boost valve, only the other valve. Thanks Knuckbusted (Greg) for the pics, just what I was looking for sir!
Could not sleep last night, about 2 am decided to pull the pump. Pump body bushing definitely moved. Now that I look at it, no way I installed it that way. I would have made it flush. The edges of the bearing surface were squished a bit. Inside is pretty scoured. I remember using loc-tite, because I saw the material in there. What I don't see is any sort of "lip" that you were speaking of. Just nice smooth bore. Obviously, the bushing spun. Damn! All 2004r pump bodies have this a lip or stop for the bushing? Mine does not.
Attached scan may help some. I would get another pump body. The shoulder was an early production quality control improvement. It would have to be a very early produced pump (or damaged) to not have the shoulder. My apologies to Big B if he feels we have hi-jacked his thread. Just wanted to try and help anyone who needed it.
I suppose I am the one who highjacked the thread, but title was perfect description for me, and I appreciate the help. Spoke with Chris at CK again today. He is very pleased with those pressures including reverse. Afterall, it is his kit. He no longer puts the larger low reverse valve and says I am good. I will consider a new pump, trans is a 84 or 85 BQ so guess it is the early style.
I would consider 1981-1982 as early production. I wouldn't trust that pump. I think it will do it again. Just my opinion, though.
I have read that many people suggest staking the front pump bushing in. Anyone ever try this? If so, how exactly would you "stake" it without ruining it?
While you have it apart you could drill the drain back passage larger if you havent already. I put a seal retainer on as insurance. For the cost I thought it worth it. Let me know if you need help finding any if these things as I ordered pretty much everything of the old interwebz. I can pm you some links. I would use a larger rev boost valve. Do you "need" it? Probably not but it does increase the pressures in low as well as rev and I think that if I put the shifter in low, usually I am doing something that might need increased pressure to apply the clutches. Not an overly expensive piece for what it does imo. I'm not a guru so take it with the grain of salt. You also might look into a Teflon coated pump bushing. And I staked and locktited the one I put in. Staking involved a chisel and several hits overlapping the pump body and the bushing so the bushing doesn't move. I don't have a pic. Next time you are at the trans dyno place ask them to show you. On a side note. Does anyone know why one would grind off one of the lands on the shaft as instructed near where is has step 7 in the middle of the tg instructions. I didn't do it to mine as I didn't know what that does. Tia
Wow, great info and diagram! I did drill the drainback larger. I also have the CKperformance kit, which included the larger tv boost valve. He does not use the larger reverse valve for some reason, but again he is okay with those numbers. After seeing this post, I found on ebay and bought a new kit that included new front seal and the metal retainer. Yes, cheap insurance. But since the bushing walked, I either need to ask trans shop to stake it or find a newer style pump. I am also using the Teflon bushing. The 20 minutes or so on the dyno, really scoured the Teflon bushing good, super super tiny little bushing flakes inside the TQ, that I an trying to flush. I am hoping this is not going to be an issue! WTF! And why did I "really" need overdrive?
When all is said and done you will appreciate the overdrive especially if you do any highway driving. My 2nd 2004r works great and makes me appreciate a good build! Good luck!!
Appreciate the "positive waves" my friend. If I could only get my wife supportive like that, lol. You can never ever learn too much. I had had only done some research prior and learned about bushing walk in the pump I was have addresses. Hindsight is always 20/20 huh?
You can learn more about staking the bushing HERE. The illustration is on a 700-R4, but the principle is the same. You might want to read HERE, also.
So I see the switch. I see epoxy, but what exactly and I doing to my original? Am I cutting something them epoxy? I am I removing something? What do I do to it that require the epoxy after? Sorry, just confused
Here's Tech8's post that I used to create mine: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?176591-TH350-200R4-swap-summary&p=1397024#post1397024
I'm in the process of doing this. I ordered a Standard Auto Parts NS14 and NS41 neutral safety switches from Amazon (about $26 for the pair). Still waiting for them to arrive but these are easy common pieces to find. If you want to source local get the neutral safety switch for an 86 cutlass supreme with 307 and 71 skylark with any engine. You are going to pull the backing/mounting plate off both switches then merge the old 3 speed back and the 4 speed switch mechanism with the epoxy.
