I have a 63 Special: 215 Alum w/2V Rochester. All the ignition parts are new and I'm trying set the carb vs points vs idle vs mixture. It's starting to drive me insane! I get the idle to a nice place then it hesitates on throttle. I believe it's a mixture issue but I'm not feeling the magic. I get it seeming right then I get on the road and while pick up is ok from a stop, when I'm at 40 or so and step on it, it feels a little boggy. The points might be set funky as well. I may have chased my tail into a circle of doom and I could use a hand getting back to square. I have the service manual but, I really need a human touch here I think. Any help would be appreciated. Nickou:
Nick - Have you tried giving Scott (CyberBuick) a call? He knows his way around with dist. and carb adjustments pretty good. You might also post at Bill's Forum to see what Dave says.:TU: I don't know too many people that are more capable than Dave!!:Smarty: He knows more than just ignitions too!!
Thanks Scott, will do. Took her out last night, ran fine except for the top end power issue. Then this morning took the kids to school and she stalled out a couple times and wouldn't start. I popped the hood and saw my choke was closed all the way, opened it up (leaned it out a bunch) and she started right up.
Has the choke been doing that before? Wonder if that could be closing on you (even a little) while you're driving?
Yes. I'm sure it's set wrong. When I first started tweaking it, was to lower the idle. I noticed the choke was leaned out all the way (no choke ever) I tried to set the idle and mixture so the choke could live at least within the notches. No luck, like I said, this morning, while cold, she stalled and the choke was sitting closed all the way even when set at the lean notch. So, I open her up all the way (an inch or 2 past the set notches) to basically no choke at all and it started and drove fine. Maybe that's fine, if it works leave it alone but, I can't. I need to know whats going on there. Do you guys generally set the auto choke to none at all? Do I need choke ever? I'm not exactly in frozen tundra out here but, it is a bit chilly in the mornings. btw. Is Dave the guy in whittier who does the HEI's etc?
Actually I would just tie the choke wide open and take it out of the equation all together!! :Brow: I've driven my 71 GS350 with no choke in 30 degree weather, while it takes a bit of "pattin' on the gas" while cold, it only lasts for a few miles, but at least I know the choke is'nt going to hold me back from full throttle runs:laugh: Mark
Ahh....thanks Mark. I can set the sucker to basically off and it seems fine, I just needed some else to tell me that they run that way.
If your choke is staying open, even a small bit, it could cause stumbling. Make sure the choke heat system is working. If the tube is plugged or letting exhaust into the choke housing it spells trouble. If that's the problem, convert it to an electric choke. I did that and it was the best move I had ever made. Otherwise, set it to the index mark on the housing. Also, spray it good and be sure it is not sticking. If you didn't set your fast idle speed, that's good if you don't have a manual. Usually, you just set it on the lowest step and set it to idle about 50-100 rpm faster than the slow idle speed. The mixture screws are tricky to set, but will cause stalling and rough idle if not correct. I just turn them in one at a time until it starts to stall and go back out about 3/4 turn. If you have a vacuum gage, use it and set these for the highest reading. Also, make sure your accelerator pump is working. Look down the throat of the carb with the engine not running, while moving the throttle and you should see a steady stream of fuel squirting out into both barrels. If it putters or just drips a little, that will cause stumbling. Set your dwell (or point gap) first and then set the timing to specs. Try advancing a couple degrees to eliminate stumble, but if it pings when hot, set it back a few degrees. Now is a good time to get a dwell meter and timing lite if you don't have one. Idle speed should always be set last. Remember: dwell first, then timing, then idle mixture, then idle speed. If you are unsure about the idle mixture screws, set them around 2 turns each as a pre-set. Every car responds differently, I hope this helps you.:bglasses:
Thanks Joe. The setting order is what I was really unsure of. Now I just need some gauges (vac-dwell-Timing) and I'm all set. Thanks again, Nick
I see Scott gave you some pretty detailed things to go thru over on Bill's board. That should get things working like they're supposed to.
Some pics of the evil do-er... You can see it's now set past the front notch. Seems to be fine. I'll see what it looks like in the morning when it first wakes up.
The fast idle thingy that was causing me grief. I let it out to where it's not touching the throttle and now the idle set screw is functioning.
Shame you live 4,000 miles away.....I'd say bring it over and I'd fix it for you. Looks like your slow idle speed screw also sets the fast idle speed. Thats good, it's simpler. I think you have choke problems, either from adjustment/sticking/gummed up housing or a combination of all 3. If you don't have a service manual, get one. Looks like you may need it. Don't take your carb apart without it! :bglasses:
I have the service manual but, I won't be taking the carb apart unless I have to and if I do, I'll get a kit before I start.:TU:
Something new has been found! This threaded port appears to be missing something. The pictures in the manual are unclear but it looks like this port should have a plug. It is whistling and has a strong vaccuum. When I put my thumb over it, it's really suck'n and the idle goes down a bit. Should I plug this port and then readjust mixture? Or is it supposed to go somewhere? Could it be a port for optional A/C or something?
That's your problem! I think a welch plug goes in there. That is the bore for your choke pull off piston. (I think) You need to plug that hole and I'll bet your problem will be solved.:beer
