Happy Ground Hog Day!! ws [video=youtube;f94XWRKfJ7k]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f94XWRKfJ7k[/video]
So after 2 days of stress testing I have yet to hear back, probably Monday. Went for a radio nuclide "at rest" CT scan, followed Friday by a chemical stress test. I could feel the juice going in, up to my head and feeling lousy. By the time the toes felt lousy, my head started feeling better. That was the worst of it. Today I finally quit feeling sorry for myself and attacked the wobbling tilt steering column job that's haunted me since purchase 4 years ago. I got to a point that I got befuddled, and had to make that call. Larry the Legend walked me through it over the phone and the guts were laying in my lap. The worst part of the job was pulling the signal cable up the pipe. The plastic jacket (Thanks PO!) was pushed WAY inside the column and got caught on the way out. I had to get a grip with the needle nose and twist it like a sardine can key. Tomorrow we'll clean it up and continue on. Still waiting for the H-D gearbox to get finished so I can get that bastard in! All of a sudden its gonna be nice out! ws
Bill, That wire harness protective sheathing should have two square holes punched in it. In order to remove it from the wire harness you have to remove the column support saddle bracket first (4-bolts and the 2 main column fasteners). Then you can pry the plastic cover off the two bosses and it will easily slide down and off the harness. Looks like you may have left the column main mounting bracket on and tore the sheathing off the bosses,... (hence forcing the sardine can key effect),......... though I can't tell for sure by your picture of the sheathing. That would explain why it was putting up such a fight. Looking closely at the picture I included you can see the sheathing attached over the two mounting bosses, (the support saddle bracket is already removed). I gotta give you credit,.... you pick up on steering column rebuilding instructions over the phone very well,...... Bill you are a fast learner. Larry
Thanks for the info, and the patience Larry! Actually the 4 bolts and 2 big nuts were off and the column was laying in my lap as we spoke. When I took that underside pic was when I realized what was going to happen and also saw the cover in place over the 2 bolts on the port side of the lower column. According to my 1971 service manual, the connector, wires, switch and sheath were supposed to come straight out with the tilt in the down position. The protector was unclipped, but the PO had it out before hence the curled top left side corner. I also think he trimmed several inches off the length as the wires were still showing at the knuckle area from the drivers seat. In retrospect, the column should've stayed bolted in and the harness removed THEN got down to the knuckle; the book is really vague about some finer details and like my Pops said; "Experience has no substitute!" I thank you !!! ws ADDED: After looking at your pic, the sheath seems to be clipped onto the two bolts on the shift lever side; mine were on the tilt lever side. Hmm... in backwards or upside down perhaps? The length on mine doesn't show, but the sheath only ran from the plug to the stationary piece of the column. That sheath is there to protect the wires for the tilt but they were very exposed to any movement. Thoughts??
Yeah that is a generic picture and it has a later style sheath with multiple square holes for different applications. The sheath is there to protect the wiring from being chafed by the lower shift bowl/shroud (especially its bottom edge) as it spins every time you move the shifter position. I would install the correct length sheath. Larry
So far, so good...looks like you are in good shape, Bill. I know many cars have had the ignition lock changed over time. The basic result if done wrong, is that when you put the key in the ACC position...1 click CCW from lock...the alt light on the dash doesn't light dimly and there is no ACC position, or the ACC's won't work. Now is the time to fix that, it's easy now while it's apart. Same if your ig key code doesn't match your doors. And...don't forget to be in the correct position for the BIG GAME later tonite!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
BIG GAME tonite??? What game is that?? I started watching the Walking Dead marathon at 0700 this morning! I guess I lucked out with the PO at least with him installing most of the stuff correct (probably had someone else do it); everything worked off the key as it should, but the old grease was just a little sticky making it hard to bump the starter for timing etc. After the stuff is clean, the rack and knuckle will get a dab of synthetic grease. The keys do match the doors too, with a round one for the trunk and glove box. I had a new set of GM blanks (C&D style) that I had cut. They all work except the passenger door. I'm guessing a little wear and tear over the years. I still use the factory ignition key and its' pretty well worn. 'Twas hard to duplicate that one. There is a good locksmith in town tho... maybe Ill take the tumbler to him and see whats what with that. GOOD BRAINFART FRANK! So now, where can I get a new turn signal wire sheath? Generic too I'd assume and cut to length? I understand the bowl turning and rubbing. Back in the day, we'd pull the trans lock linkage off and work the bowl by hand. The 4 speed was all the way CCW and the auto's were in a certain spot to work the reverse lights, and the neutral start in park or neutral. All the car club guys would flash a back up light recognition at night to fellow club members when we'd pass each other. Kid stuff... Heading back out now to start cleaning parts and putting non needed tools away. Still swapping tool doubles between the two shops. Got a ROKU(?) receiver in the shop for TV off the wireless router so I can still watch Walking Dead LOL... ws
Just read this thread, Fred. OK, Bill. But Fred rhymed with read and thread. Anyhoo. Thanks for the walk through, Bill. Fun to watch. For future reference, if the TA double thick gaskets are too expensive, and you are sure your VC lips are true, for a while I took 2 sets of cork gaskets and just glued them together. You have to let them sit for a day or two, but then they seal really well. Also necessary if you run roller rockers with stock VCs.
I don't think they repro the sheath. There might be 2 different lengths, tilt might be different. I had one of those laying around in my garage or loft, but I just looked and don't see it. Somebody who parts will have one.
Here you go Bill. Unless you are trying to stay Concours,... I wouldn't worry about which side of the column it attaches to,... as long as it does it's job. I would never advise anyone to disconnect the linkage to the bowl. One of the prime reasons for having it is to act as a lockout saftey so the key cannot be turned back to the lock position while the vehicle/transmiission is in anything but PARK. That prevents the unlikley but total possibility of the the steering lock pin to engage with the lock plate making the vehicle unsteerable. While I was at work today I took a picture of one of the protective sheath/covers I have for a tilt column I'm rebuilding. http://www.steeringcolumnservices.c...pontiac/turn-signal-switch-wire-protector.php Larry
One of the prime reasons for having it is to act as a lockout saftey so the key cannot be turned back to the lock position while the vehicle/transmiission is in anything but PARK. That prevents the unlikley but total possibility of the the steering lock pin to engage with the lock plate making the vehicle unsteerable. No doubt about that whatsoever! Strange things we did as kids eh? So Ill toss it out here... anyone have even a damaged sleeve to get rid of? Ill glue two of them together and cut to fit. I cant believe $30+ for a piece of recycled battery case; YOWZA! I'm gonna post some pics in a bit, theyre at walgreens getting developed LOL... I did mangle that stupid paper clip/ linkage indicator when that bowl popped off. Didn't think about it or I would've taken it off first! Finding a decent used one would be cool, but like the proverbial needle in the haystack, its gonna be a million to one shot. I also need what the book calls an "insulator button" for the horn switch ground. Nothing in the book either about a rag joint ground. Its pretty much steel on steel with bolting. Hmmm... ws
I guess it pays to schmooze with the chick at walgreens that does the photo processing haha. Anyway, dinner happened. Heres some pics of todays adventures. The linkage paper clip seems to be spring steel; can this get straightened or will it break? The one pic shows the attachment point on the speedo bezel. Then theres the upper bowl (the tilting part) with the rack that drives the rod to the starting switch etc. Its gonna be a picnic getting the rod back on in situ and keep the bearings and everything else together. I may have to temp hang the column back on the support bracket from underneath while assembling. When the bowl popped off all the 3/32" greezy roller balls blew all over the floor of the car etc, but I found every one of them, so there! LOL. Joke was on me and my magnet. Tomorrow is a propane run, then cleaning and re-assembling. Can anyone help with the parts (hint hint).... ws
This shows how the sheath got caught up inside the bowl; slightly exaggerated. We shall overcome! The bowl and rack and the operating table with "most" of the parts sorted out. http://comicbook.com/thewalkingdead/2017/02/06/the-walking-dead-airs-hilarious-super-bowl-ad/ ADDED: Thanks Yardley! Coming from one of the resident experts' I appreciate the time youre taking to read this drivel LOL. I'd thought about gluing a set of neoprene gaskets together with RTV and then set them in between a pair of valve covers with screws and nuts until they set up, but the new ones seem ok with a 10 minute garage run... Your idea is still very much on the table! ws
Tedious stuff cleaning and lubing (without a mess!) all the fine points in that launch control panel. Onkel Verner would've been proud! GM mustve hired an ex-safe cracker to design that whole apparition! Got it back together thus far with 99% certainty that its good. Hooked up the battery and had crank and no crank (that's a goodin'!) and no crank in drive or reverse. Only had two parts left over; these little black things that nobody warned me about. I shiest canned them--- who needs 'em anyhow? Today the turn signals and wheel; tomorrow the world! The wire sleeve still seems a little short. I May add a short length of some industrial heat shrink tubing I saved from work. Its Thomas-Betts and good stuff. Taking wagers; I can make a 10 minute job last 3 hours???ou: ws
Bill, those two black pieces in photo #1 are bumpers. They fit into the bearing housing and are in place to cusion the shock if you were to just pull the tilt lever and let the column swing all the way up on its own,..... preventing a harsh stop. They also limit the upper column's travel in the full upright tilt position somewhat. Larry
You mean I hafta pull that whole thing apart AGAIN??? Yeah, as soon as I saw that one hit the floor, the second one was on the bench. Washed them really good and a dab of spray glue on the awl to get at the seats and a dab on the bumpers they are in for the duration LOL. They barely showed on the exploded view page in the manual. There is a 3rd bumper between the two release pawls as well. The cross pin has to come out for that one and I was recommended by the resident expert not to pull that out. Those 2 springs gotta be killers and I can see why... theres that experience thing again! Any input on that linkage wire from the bowl to the indicator? Ive got a tube of spring wire (about .045" or some .035" MIG wire) should I just make a new one? ws
Yup, bumpers...I knew that. The wire you have looks like it's original, but tweaked. You should be able to bend it back in shape, I'd trace it first for length. It should look like the loop at the top on both ends, a short straight section between them. You can tweak it when it's in. You could use a paper clip for stock. They get bent when you drop the column w/o un-screwing the wire. Very common.........back to the victory parade. Today's lesson is " Never give up", brought to you by the letter "B" for BRADY!!!!!!!!!
Yo Frank! Another 4 hours and we are at about 99.5% ! All that's left is the bottom cover, but the indicator linkage clamp screw stripped out so I called it quits. The wire link was a breeze, and I actually knew better since I had that off before, but once that column dropped, it was a history lesson. I did find out that the tilt column has TWO wire shields. The book shows one for a column shift but there had to be a floor shift shield. I ended up making one out of a Kevlar(woven fabric and tuff to cut) I believe, self adhesive deal that looks like pipe insulation with an adhesive strip down the cut, and tiny blister wrap on the inside. A perfect substitute. After every screw was installed, I'd hook up the battery and run all the tests, disconnect and move on to the next. Hell, even the key buzzer works! That stoopid shield gave me the hard time. I ended up putting it back on the passenger side like the book shows but had to trim the top half of the locating holes off to get it in. That SOG was tight! The loom did lay in place, clamped down nice and the plugs slipped together and clipped in for the duration. I think the book mentioned at one point to pull the whole loom out the top, and somewhere else it said to pull the shield outa the bottom and then pull the loom up. I probably should've loaded the upper shield on the top and inserted it and pushed the lower shield up from the bottom. Either way I felt like an altar boy in training. I was genuflecting all day long. If I never have to do this job again it will be too soon... The best part is the loose column doesn't wiggle anymore... ws
