I must say,ive used probably every oil on the market over the years in several dozen(ok,maybe 20 or so)different cars & never had a problem.From Mobil 1 to .99 cent a quart parts house brand,whatever is on sale.If you change it every 3000 miles,which for me is spring & fall,add the zinc(nowadays) they eliminated,USE A QUALITY FILTER,your good to go.Geez,some of you guys are trying to reinvent the wheelp One thing i do,is when i buy a car,i pull the pan & valve covers to clean,after the first(my) oil change to remove the sludge build up from previous owners who DIDNT change oil on a regular basis.It is not rocket science,it's common sense:TU:
Step 1: Go to Wal-mart and buy 5 quarts of Accel SF 10w-40 Step 2: Go buy AC PF24 Filter Step 3: Change oil/filter :TU:
If you notice, the Accel oil only has some words relating to the SF rating. There is no official API (American Petroleum Institute) "donut" certifying this oil as meeting the requirements of the API SF spec. Also, there has been an oil analysis test result posted which show it as having inadequate anti-wear additive levels. Good luck.
I agree the Accel and the other wal-mart brand Super Tech are complete crap... no matter how much ZDDP they might have... the last time I looked at an oil analysis of Super tech in several areas it had ONE QUARTER of the additive levels of good oils. So go ahead and use it if you fancy 1000 mile /three week oil changes. Not trying to preach here but also remember that Oil acidifies even when it just sits around for 6 months in the pan, so long drain intervals with the cheap stuff is a risky idea even if it doesn't have many miles on it. Quite possible you'll never know or care, I mean not that many people keep a car for 60,000 or 100,000 miles anyway. Those of us who do; probably tinker enough with the performance that we'll rebuild or re-cam somewhere well south of those miles anyway. Nailhead wise though, that stubby little rocker arm and the fact that Nailheads are known go through valve jobs, makes me think ZDDP is even more important. The valve tip sliding friction is the same type of "EP" or extreme pressure friction as the lifters on the cam lobes. Last but not least didn't I read somewhere that Nailhead cams are forged steel just like the cranks and rods?
I went to look at this stuff at Wal Mart for myself and tried to do research on the internet to determine what quality it was. I was not convinced. It reminds me of the recycled motor oil you could buy "back in the day" Sorry, but to quote the great James Brown. This just aint cuttin it... Bert
