If you have a good size trans cooler you would be better off going straight to that and bypassing the radiator. The fact that the fluid smells burnt is good..............I am hoping you are onto the problem
I'd say it was prettyt burnt. I set the pan with the drained fluid in it aside for the night until I get enough jugs to dispose of it, and this morning my whole garage reeks!!!
Yes, very possible. Put a good volt meter on and have someone check it while it breaks up at rpm. Very easy to replace brushes (which is a common cause of bad alternators).
Yardley, I've been following this thread for a while, a quick way to rule out the trans is that after it warms up and you feel it falling on it's face, pull it in an un bolt the converter. Then let it rev and see how it behaves, if it revs free you know it is binding up somewhere. I know it's frusterating but I think your narrowing it down to the problem. Good Luck Dan Argentoo No:
It will always rev no problem. It is when it has a load on it that it dies. And I'm sure it never did it at the top of 2nd gear, only 1st. Trans. But we'll see.
I have been fallowing you and your riv for years on this site. sorry to hear about your problems. My thought is the fuel lines, how old are they, could they be collapsing inside when hot and restricting fuel flow? I also would like to know, what have you done to that 2 piece drive shaft used in rivs? and what rear are you using? I have a 67 and when I was younger I broke a cv joint in my dads 67 riv.(1970s) I do enjoy the sound of a 430 frying good rubber! (some kids never grow up )good luck. Rusty Riv.
Hi Rusty. All fuel lines are less than a year old. Quality push-lock lines. I run the stock 3.42 posi rear. My driveshaft is still an all-original unit. I had the rear shaft welded so the inner and outer tubes are now one. That is mandatory because the vulcanized rubber ring that holds those 2 shafts together lets go and the outer tube twists over the inner, throwing the shaft out of phase. That causes wicked vibration. I have my old shaft as a spare which I had the rear tubes replaced with a single one. The carrier bearing mounting area on that one is pretty worn, so I opted for a replacement.
Thanks. what times and mph do you run. Are you running a interior? or is it gutted? is it still a street driven car? thanks for your time Rusty Riv
3 amplifiers, a sub woofer and a cd player. Power driver's seat. Power windows. Power antenna. Race weight 4550 pounds! When the trans/nosing over problem is cured I'll be consistantly in the 12's at 105 MPH. I drive the hell out of this car. The best drive is the 9 hours each way to Ohio and back in August!
Its been a long time since I've been on the board, Howdy. Don't want to beat a dead horse here but how do these numbers look? Kinda Lean... I know. Here are some shorter clips of the vids taken on the first day breaking in. The last pull was clean, tuned and rings still seating in and making more power every pull after the vid was shot: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZ1fZZHH2LI Pardon the poor editing but it was taken with Hi 8 tape a few years back. You'll notice the odd puff of smoke from oil vaporizing on the header, that was due to not having enough crankcase ventilation, running the PCV which was removed for the later pull in the video and only one restrictive breather cap on the left valve cover and oil was misting onto the header. It was addressed rightaway along with the TA deep sump oil pan for the second day on the dyno. This video was only during the first day of breakin pulls and just tippin the 600 ftlbs Torque mark. I called Jim Weise that day because earlier the shop had installed the cam 20 Deg. advanced on the 9 way key Dbl roller timing and it was only making 450hp. I knew there was something wrong. Consulting with Jim W that day was extremely helpful. Luckily we didn't bend any exhaust valves... I was pissed... but thankful as the tuning continued once we ironed that out and started making power. Here is a copy of the dyno sheets. Yes, I'm Running the 1.65 T&D roller rockers and the 413 cam. Am very impressed with the rpm power band and these heads FLOW... I shift at 5800 and rev limiter is set for 6000. I'm sure a few people have seen it but here's the build info if anyone cares: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?p=1551593&highlight=Graham#post1551593 and pics at http://www.v8buick.com/vbgarage.php?do=view&id=2298 Anyway the machine has been in storage the last few years and there's very low hours / miles on it. It gets out for a cruise and abuse every year though. The Calgary Club can attest to that...:laugh: Still have that new 308 solid cam and lifters that have to go in,..eventually. Couple years ago Mike at TA said the 308s should make 70-80 more hp with my heads but will have to spin it harder too... Hmm I wonder how Texas Ranger ever made out with his motor... Anyway, take care and keep er WFO. :TU:
Just a quick update, y'all. Installed a brand new trans cooler with integrated fan and thermal control switch. Also installed new Jim Weise trans cooler lines. I got a brand new transmission from TCI. Bolted it in. Backed out of the driveway. Put the shifter in Drive. Pulled away from the curb. And it never shifted out of first gear! Swapped governers and vacuum modulators and it made no difference. So TCI has picked up the trans and I await their findings. Needless to say, after all the transmissions I have bolted in this car, I'm pretty depressed about the whole situation. This is the EIGHTH transmission I have bolted in this car. It is also the 14th R&I I've done (for many various reasons). I went with TCI because I really didn't want to have to do this again for many years. But I guess the joke's on me. No word from TCI about the trans yet. I also requested that they reimburse me for the $75 in TCI trans fluid that I have to trash. I also JUST got the converter back from Coan after a refresh and check. If they tell me there is metal in the trans and I should have the converter opened and flushed again I sure as hell don't think I should pay for that, either. We'll see. sigh
Dumb guy question about the basics. You've definately verified full manifold vacuum makes it all the way to the modulator? My friend had an Oldsmobile that the metal line cracked and the vacuum was being lost before it got to the modulator.
Actually, I was condensing the problem a bit... It won't "shift" out of first gear, per se. But after running 1st gear up a bit (like to 3 or 4 grand), when I let off the gas and then accelerate again the engine free revs! If I pull the shifter back down from Drive to 1st gear it will drop down into 1st gear again. So it comes out of first gear (but only when letting off) but there is nothing there when it does.
