chassis dyno is a good idea .. revving a cold engine is going to hurt something.. is your fuel getting hot from header?.. lifters may also be crashing down when oil thins out..I feel your pain believe me, when my car has a problem it usually costs at least 5000 dollars before finding the problem . I would take the winter off and start fresh in spring while you still have your sanity ..
Thanks Rod. I'll call you tonight. If it is the lifters then 2 different brand of lifters both do the same thing. The old engine did it and the new one does it. Both had/have different lifters. I'm using Chevy lifters. I know it shouldn't make a difference, but could it?
Chassis dyno's use 3rd gear WOT to get their numbers. All I'd be able to use it for is to see if it lays over. I don't believe I'd get any computer printout support. But it is a thought.
The symptoms you describe sounds almost exactly what my 70 sometimes does during the day in the heat of summer and its caused by vapor lock. Have you got a clear inline fuel filter installed to see whats going on with the fuel? When mine vapor locks the fuel filter will have hardly any fuel in it.
I understand. But vapor lock is very uncommon with an electric pump because the fuel is being pushed and compressed the entire length of the vehicle instead of pulled/sucked from the front. It did it last year with the old engine and no fuel filter before or after the pump (as a test - we had to be sure it was a fuel starvation problem). I suppose we should run another run of fuel line and test it again with the new engine.
BTW, I've run out of fuel many times because the original electric in-tank pump could never keep up. It doesn't feel like that. It isn't a total, sudden loss of all power, it just no longer pulls the car forward. This has me so rattled that last night I dreamed that I fried the transmission in my truck!
Is it possible you have a fuel restriction AFTER the pressure gauge? Are you sure you're simply not over revving it? Try another tach if you can, they all don't read the same.
Hi Rob. After the regulator I have a short run of line, which is push-lock hose with -6AN fittings. No restrictions. And I'm not over revving it because on the dyno it pulled to 5500 and when it is cold it pulls to 5500.
At least it's taking your mind off those "special" sheep you usually dream about. Stick a mechanical pump on it, plumb it in temporarily and run it out of a container in your back seat. You need to take the fuel system out of it. (don't forget to pull the fuse on the electric!)
Yardley, I think what Rob is trying to get at is maybe it's the tach that is acting up when it get's hot. You once said here that is sounds like it's screaming after it warms up, but the tach only reads 5000.. Worth a try... JW
That's what I meant to say, especially if your other gauges are electrical (vs mechcanical) and have a shared ground that's bad or common to something that's causing interference (rfi). Try unplugging your voltage regulator or alternator.
my riv does same thing ..pull the pipes,, I dont know about the cold thing because I would never rev a cold engine ..I too have had multiple engines do the same thing in my riv, I think its the length and amount of turns in exhaust
Already considered that. With the MSD the original + wire to the coil simply turns on the MSD box. The box then uses its own wiring and a direct battery connection to fire the coil. In swapping the MSD box I used all the new box's wiring so as to rule out my wiring as a possible cause. There was no change.
And Most Dyno's can and will simulate a 1/4 mile pass FWIW And to Throw a Fuel Problem out the window Borrow Beg or Steel a LM1 Wide Band O2 setup and see what AFR is Doing when you experience it Nosing over jmo
