Picked up a Holley jet kit awhile back...finally had some time to spend with my Son, and start documenting the setup as what it is now. He pulled the front bowl off, and found 72's on both sides, with a 28 squirter... Then pulled the back bowl off and found.....72's on both sides, with a size 31 squirter. Think we found the reason the car wasn't pulling very hard at WOT. Before we had started any work: He had made a hard run, and then pulled a couple plugs out....aaaaaaand it's a good thing we are building another engine. Both plugs were white, with "deposits" on the electrodes. Changed front jets to 74's and stepped the back jets up to 84's. Will take the car out tomorrow to see how it changes. Didnt make any other changes....only wanted to change one thing at a time, but felt the engine is way lean at WOT, so changed both front and rear. (Primary, and secondary.) Car still starts, and idles nice, but throttle response is better. (With a cold engine) Doesn't have the slight heeeezzzitation. More to follow... Oh...also finished all the oil mods on the block, and took the block, heads, crank, and rods to local shop for measuring the block height, then square it up while making both sides the same height. Line hone, after main studs are installed. Need to make a TA Performance order....
Just make sure when reading plugs that you're running PURE gasoline not that mixed with alcohol, methanol or ethanol crap because that little extra crap they put in will clean the plugs enough to make them un-readable. Better off getting an O2 gauge to set your air/fuel ratios than trying to read plugs with todays fuels, unless you can find a gas station that sells straight gas. You can either get the FAST duel O2 sensor tool or a gauge that mounts in the car, or better yet, sell all of the carbs and get one of these kits; http://fitechefi.com/ These come with an O2 sensor that self tunes the air/fuel ratios to what they should be automatically so you can drive up in the mountains from the beach the same day and your A/F ratios will be automatically optimized for maximum performance and economy for wherever you're at. I haven't heard anything bad about these systems so far as long as you don't get their fuel command center which I have heard a ton of issues with and not sure the bugs are worked out yet. But the throttle body injection kits I hear and read are great. GL Derek
If you like that, check this out I just noticed; http://fitechefi.com/fitech-uploads/2016/07/FiTech2016HolidayRebate.pdf It looks like the 600 HP systems have a $100 Holiday rebate!! $895 for fuel injection that will support 600 HP, I've seen carburetors that cost more than that! :eek2: The 600 HP power adder system for $1,095 after rebate! I wish I had $895 lying around!!! I wanted one of them eventually, with my luck I'll probably have to pay full price when I have the cash. :rant: Derek
You didn't mention anything about a power valve in the rear. The only reason to go up 10 jet sizes in the rear is if there is no power valve. Also, reading plugs with unleaded fuel is difficult at best.
We only have initial, and mechanical advance.....bump up the initial? Squirters are rediculously priced here, and sizes are limited as well. I think I remember there only being a 31 and a 35 in stock. The carb has the pink cams, both in position #1.
Yeah, I seen that right away.....makes it pretty tempting. Just curious how it would work with no vacuum advance on the distributer.
Should work just fine, I think the 600 HP models can even control your timing if you want it to if not you can run your mechanical curve however you have it set it up. "This is also the only computer mounted throttle body that offers spark control without the need for an external spark box or special distributor. It also has a built-in fuel pressure regulator. A hand-held controller features a touch screen for quick and easy initial set-up." Derek
Son took his car out yesterday for a rip. I asked later on how it was, and he just smiled ear to ear. Then I asked where his car was..... "In the garage" he said. "Oh?, hiding from the cops?" I asked. .......he just smiled again.ou: What have I created here. .....:shock: It was good enough to call his friend over, and go for a ride, to show him the improvement too. Apparently it can now do smokey, posi burnouts....no more hesitation.
Looking for a set of early Buick 350 heads. The set we dropped off are new style with the 1.55" exhaust valves, and whoever did the last rebuild on the heads, sunk all the seats a bit too far...not wanting to install seats. TA big valve set will fix the intake valve seats by recutting them from stock size, to 1.920", but the exhaust are already the 1.550" size.
If you are solving the intake side with larger valves, that will solve most of your problems. Other than getting the stem heights even and the potential lifter preload acceptable, slightly sinking exhaust seats would hardly have an effect on blowing down a pressurized cylinder or potential power production.
